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Currently the Chain is sat to far outboard and rubbing up against the chain guide, leaving to much scope for the chain to drop down the inside.
Obviously using spacers won't work (In theory) but can I flip the BB over so the Plastic Non-drive side is on the drive side.
Any Help Would be massively appreciated
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Type of BB being used
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You can't flip the BB as the threads will be wrong (one of the sides has an opposite thread).
Use a seat tube mounted guide instead?
You can't flip the BB as the threads will be wrong (one of the sides has an opposite thread).
Oh yeah! 😳
Wanted to stay clear of seatpost mounted (Aesthetics!),
Might make a spacer to go between the back plate and guide before going down that route....
X
If you're adding a spacer you might want/need to get a BB with a longer axle and wider shell, otherwise you may not be left with enough thread to properly hold the drive side and/or enough axle poking out the non-drive side.
If the guide will only fit there, leave it.
Adjust with spacers/washers between crank spider and chainring? May need to adjust sprocket position slightly to get chainline correct afterwards.
Grease on the tapers, and do the bolt up tighter 😉
cant you space the green bit out from the back plate ?
Can you not bend the back plate a little to make it line up.
But chainring spacer would be my first suggestion
Or a shorter bb
trail rat and orangeloy +1
Either space the green bit out if possible or see if you can get a slightly shorter axle BB.
Problem solved! Although I'll replace the zinc covered steel with a Aluminium piece when I get the chance.
Align gears and I'll be on my way!
Thanks for your help peeps!
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Square Taper BB's are incompatible with BB mounted Chain guides,
Left the non-drive side crank arm off while I tinkered with gears, only to pop it on and find that because of the guide plate it pulls the opposing arm in to far and seizes the lot up.
Anyone got a cheap external BB, Crank arms going?! 🙁
guides and square tapered units were a mare to sort out. Which unit have you got in there? Is it 118x68?
Can you space the chainring inwards slightly? Use standard-width chainring bolts and a tall washer between crank and ring?
I've done it, not ideal, but works.
If you're adding a spacer you might want/need to get a BB with a longer axle and wider shell, otherwise you may not be left with enough thread to properly hold the drive side and/or enough axle poking out the non-drive side.
As already put! Gonna say it!!!
Think its a 75mm BB but it makes no difference, I've been thinking about a new BB/Crank arms, I suppose this is my que...
That's what I was thinking but the l/h arm still jams up in the plastic adaptor so there's no point in bothering with finding the right washers until he gets an E version of whatever bb is needed.
Edit: and once the right bb is in there,the washers might not be needed.
Edit 2: Pick up a pair of HT2 arms and bb for peanuts and don't waste any more of your life faffing with square taper!
I had the same problem and just spaced my chainring inwards a bit with washers.
Pick up a pair of HT2 arms and bb for peanuts and don't waste any more of your life faffing with square taper!
This is what I'll do.
For me I grew up with taper bb and do not find them a faff as they last so much longer
And back in the day lots of front mechs were e fit
Or bb mount if you prefer and all worked well with no left hand arm issues
But having been in shops for most my working life it's easy to play and see what works
For home fiddling I can see ht11 could be simpler
What she'll size and cranks do you have at the moment