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Anyone done this?
Hatching a vague plan to do the length of the archipelago S-N in May after seeing some YouTube videos of people walking the Hebridean way. Looks amazing.
Would love to do the walk however it is a long way and would take too long (thinking of doing it May half term), so looking at doing it by bike instead.
I'm just trying to get a handle on feasibility of getting there and back and doing the rie in a week (up to 9 days, weekend ither side).
A few questions...
1) How did you get back to civilisation (i.e. rail transport) from Lewis.
This looks like one of the most difficult bits to plan Choice to either go to Ullapool from Stornaway, or Uig (on Skye) from Tarbert, but either way you then have to do a further day's cycling before you get to any railways.
No public transport.
2) How long did it take you to do the ride (all islands S-N).
3) what was your itinerary / what did you go and see en route? E.g. tourist stuff, did you use any good bunk houses etc?
Thanks!
I've done it
Did it in 3 days, should've taken 5
I got a lift with Heb Transfers from the butt of Lewis to Stornoway
To get home I got the ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool, cycled to Garve then got the train back to Glasgow
Calanish stones are worth a visit. Loads of beaches. Make sure to go all the way to the lighthouse at the Butt of Lewis
Nice one thanks - good trip/worthwhile?
Do it!
First day: ferry Oban-Barra, pop down to Vatersay and then lap of Barra. Camp somewhere near the airport.
Second day: early morning ferry Barra-Eriskay. Enjoy the tailwind up the Uists, make it in time for the ferry from Bernaray to Harris. Camp somewhere near Luskentyre.
Third day: up to the Butt, then back across to Stornoway. Get there before 10pm for a munchy box from the only takeaway still open (Chinese near the ferry). Cheeky camp on one of the beaches, you'll be up early to catch the 6am ferry to Ullapool.
Bus to Inverness (book bikes in advance if you can), train from Inverness home.
We stopped off any time we saw something that looked worth stopping for (quite a lot). Beware everything shuts on a Sunday.
good trip/worthwhile
Absolutely fantastic.
Top tip, be prepared for any weather even at the height of summer
When I did it I returned by riding via harris, ferry to skye ride down skye ferry to mallaig, ride via arisaig and ardnamurchan to Kilchoan, ferry to mull, ride to craignure ferry to oban
the return was at least as good as the hebridies themselves. Personally I think a week is too little to enjoy it properly. perfectly doable but it means long days and not much sightseeing
IIRC my route was 300 odd miles and took 12 days
Bobs return route works as well.
Its the best short tour I have done. Just fabulous
The roads... They're so smooth.
Did it in 3 days, should’ve taken 5
Even 5 is too few.
Return from Ullapool:
https://hitrans.org.uk/News/Story/1284
https://www.tickettoridehighlands.co.uk/cyclist-transport.php
Or ride to Garve and get the train from there by the main road.
Or take the off-road route through Glen Achall, past Croick to Ardgay station.
Doing it over 7 days in May. Getting soft and booked hostels!
Great thanks all, I will give this much consideration 👍
If a week is cutting it a bit fine, the only other option would be in the summer hols (my wife works in a school 🤬)
What's the midge situation in August? I guess with it being coastal it's probably not too bad? Or is that wishful thinking?
A long week is OK if you forget the riding back to Oban as I described and do Ullapool - garve for the train and August could be midge hell or could be fine
i did same as Teej. the golden road is amazing. i could ride it forever.
and we took 2 weeks,
like Teej says, from mallaig to kilchoan is as good as the isles.
If you’re going Mallaig-Kilchoan-Tobermory-Craignure-Oban take a couple of extra hours to ride around the west side of Mull via Dervaig-Calgary-Gruline, quieter roads and glorious scenery. If you make it up the hill out of Tob, you can stop for refreshments and throw carrots at the deer at my place.
May is the time to go. Scotland doesn't have the 1/2 term so shouldn't be too busy. We did it in a week with a 9 month kid and it didn't feel too rushed. In the North it is worth devouring to mangestra. We didn't bother going to the butt. Getting back from ullapool a transfer would by far the easiest. Although it sounds like a lot of money. We got a lift to Inverness then trains back. This took forever snd still cost over £200 7 years ago.
We've done most of the mainland return on a separate trip which was equally good, but wouldn't fit into a week.
Oban to Castlebay ferry
Vatersay to the Butt of Lewis - 5 days (take longer, it'd be worth it)
Stornoway to Ullapool ferry.
Ride to Garve* (35 miles? Epic ride).
Train to Inverness where we got picked up but obviously rail connections south from there.
*We had planned to take the bikes on the bus using the bike bags as per Scotroute post. The driver had no idea what we were talking about so we rode. Hopefully they've had a bit more information and training since then.
Trying to organise this for a friend in April (outside of holidays),the cycle to Garve sounds like the best way of getting back to the east coast👍
1) How did you get back to civilisation
You've got that back to front.
It's a great run, don't rush through it whatever you end up doing transport wise.
I'm not much help with transport suggestions I'm afraid. I was fortunate to be able to do it in a giant circular route from home.🙂
The Ullapool - Garve road isn't the worst for cycling. Outside of ferry arrival times it's not normally too busy either. It's a very fast road but reasonably wide and sightlines are pretty good. Of course there are HGVs rumbling back and forth and a regular stream of tourists, often in motorhomes.
Garve - Contin is much less agreeable. It's narrower, twisty and part of the NC500 route. With a suitable bike you can bypass this on gravel roads to the North side of Loch Garve.
Once at Contin it's probably best to take the A832 to Muir of Ord (excellent snackage at the Bad Girl Bakery) then along the North side of the Beauly Firth to Kessock.
Stunning route; the Mrs is desperate to do this again. We've done it as per TJ's route, returning from Tarbert to Uig on Skye, in our case over 9 days Oban-Oban with two nights/a day spent on Scalpay.
I'd happily take it slower too.
Calmac sell a specific circular ticket for exactly this route and it's amazing value for money.
Just to be clear, first week in July last year the wind was N-S which made it brutal and was so bad and also wet one day I bailed after Tarbet for a day. Oh; and bought a proper Hebs tammy as I needed it. I stayed in a bunkhouse in Castlebay, South Benbeccula and Shawbost camping. Ferry Oban to Barry then Stornaway to Ullapool. You can build a ticket quite easily even though they don't do a roamer anymore.
Unless the ferry prices have changed dramatically they are cheap enough not be be a worry.
Great thread, its been 14 years since I have been in the area but this year I going back on my bike so this is all wonderful info
Awesome info - thanks very much all.
Are ferries likely to be as easy as turn up and get on, or do I need to book it all in advance?
Same question also accommodation (might camp / bivvy, or do a combination, but not sure yet really)
Ferry - you're pretty much guaranteed a place if you're just one or two folk going by bike.
Accommodation - book.
Train - book.
Are ferries likely to be as easy as turn up and get on, or do I need to book it all in advance?
Arran seems to be a 'must book' for 2023, and having seen a peloton of over 80 bikes boarding one day last summer, I can see why.
We also booked eldest onto the Ullapool to Stornoway as Calmac will not guarantee a booking, and also cannot book a bike on (We were told captain had refused a number of riders with bikes the month before). They also refused to consider that he was under 18 for the booking. What we found out was that he and bike can be added to ships manifest manually - apparently a good few children travel out to Western Isles and oddball bits of freight not on a vehicle at times. They just get manually added to the manifest.
Whether they would do this for *just* a bike and adult, not sure. Our ferry out Uig-Tarbert and home Stornoway-Ullapool were properly rammed full, and both ferries left vehicles and people stood on the harbour side. This was first two weeks of Scottish school holidays though. I don't think this is usual, but a few others on here will have more experience.
Looks like they are extending/improving the bikes on bus scheme from various places which could help with logistics to/from various places to the scottish West Coast. It suggests a better booking/confirmation system however possibly limited to 2 bikes per bus.
Stagecoach/Citylink Routes to be included in the service are:
917: Inverness / Portree
919: Inverness / Fort William
961: Inverness / Ullapool
914: Fort William / Glasgow
915: Uig / Fort William / Glasgow
916: Uig / Fort William / Glasgow
https://www.highland.gov.uk/news/article/15052/bikes_on_buses_scheme_extended_to_meet_demand
Did it September gone, had a great time, got very very lucky with the weather (clear blue skies a few days, about 2 hrs rain over 6 days)
Parked car at Broadford Youth Hostel on Skye
Rode from Broadford to Armadale, ferry to Mallaig, ferry to Lochboisdale
Rode down to Eriskay, ferry to Barra
Rode to Vatersay
Did full Heb way north to Lewes
Rode down to Tarbet
Ferry over toUig
Rode back to Broadford.
Did it over 6 days, 650km. Camped apart from one night in a hostel.
Meant we did about 1.75x Heb Way, but was the best way I could figure out with leaving one car somewhere
Let me know if you want more info.
Some pics here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CiimDVfMQiy/
The Mallaig - Lochboisdale route is my favourite, but always the first to be cancelled if a boat is needed on another service.
Have some more...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/druidh2000/albums/72157625906663678
We had endless blue skies for most of the trip, with just an hour of rain when heading back to Stornoway from the Butt. However, that came with a stonking headwind for the majority of the journey too!
I've since been back to Uist almost every year, flew to Barra for my 60th birthday and my in-laws live in Lewis so many more experiences!
Did this route a looong time ago. But over 14 days but 9 would be fine. From Barra to stornaway, camping, some wild, some on campsites, sometimes outside hostels that allowed us to use their facilities.
You need to cycle both sides of the southern part of Harris. And ride along the track that follows the western beach on south uist.
We cycled back from Ullapool to Inverness-much easier than I thought it would be
When my wife and I did this we drove to Tyndrum and left the car there, we got the train from lower Tyndrum station to Oban, then ferry to Barra. We cycled up to Stornway then back to Tarbert, ferry back to Uig on Skye, then got the Mallaig ferry and took the train back to Upper Tyndrum station.
Ullapool to inverness grand for cycling, mostly flat to downhill after 20miles. I found the Garve train times to inverness made it worthwhile to just carry on riding all the way, time on the bike better than time sitting at either train station. I wouldn't recommend road cycling on Skye, had a massive amount of close passes the past couple of times so won't be doing it again unfortunately. And a lot of them by motorbikes which I always find bizarre. Ride through the hebrides stunning, the ride itself pretty easy going, flat, smooth roads, good chance of tailwind. Just depends how much time extra you want for exploring.
Hi all, I'm looking into this in more detail now trying to plan it out.
The more I look at it, the more I like the look of doing Oban-> Oban in a circle. Would probably only do the southern part of the Outer hebrides (Barra/Uists/Harris) - which to be honest looks the best bit anyway. Jump straight off at Tarbert for Uig.
This route saves a lot of faff either end with trains and could easily save us a day both ends to/from home transport wise.
The fly in the ointment is the ride down Skye. Looks like trunk A road for probably most of it. Could be very very shit.
Any opinions on this to either agree or disagree with @bigmandh 's opinion?
We could take off road capable bikes however we won't have a lot of time to burn, faffing about off road for too long I wouldn't have thought
Cycling across Skye isn't the best TBH. You could divert via Staffin (Quirang) to get to Portree I guess. That would skip one bit of the main road. The wee road through Moll also skips a bit of the main road and avoids a big climb. Other than that, just grin and bear it.
I'll also just add that trying to do all that route in one week seems much to quick to me. I did Kyle of Lochalsh to Oban via Skye, Ardnamurchan and Mull and that was three and a half days riding.
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/8165/7570001986_5883bff75c_o.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/8165/7570001986_5883bff75c_o.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/cwWeRC ]West Coast Route[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/druidh2000/ ]Colin Cadden[/url], on Flickr
336km / 4613m of ascent
My time out there was in a canoe so I cant give you any bike advice but I'd say two things- Take a good tent, and nothing too big, ours was flattened, and all those pictures of golden beaches under blue skies- they're ****ing freezing.
One of my best trips tho
We did Uists and Harris, over 3 days and 4 nights by driving to Skye and leaving cars at Uig. Was logistically easy, though obviously missed the southern end of Vatersay and Barra. Ferry to LochMaddy and return from Tarbert.
Oban-> Oban
I did this with my partner who isn't a keen cyclist. We spent about 5 days cycling from Barra to Lewis, averaging about 40 per day, so fairly leisurely.
We parked up one of the oban car parks (you can buy weekly ticket online) and got ferry to barra. 5 days is minimum really as you want to stop and enjoy the sights.
Accommodation booking is essential as others have said. Stand out places for me were
The Tractor Shed https://www.northuistbunkhouse.co.uk/ (North Uist)
No 5 Hostel/B&B in Drinishader https://www.5drinishader.co.uk/ on the golden road on Harris
Heb Hostel, Stornoway (well the shepherds hut in the garden anyway)
We got transfer with ticket to ride highlands (which scotroutes mentioned above) back from ullapool to oban. which was expensive but necessary as we only had a week total.
This is really good info.
We're aiming to do this with our (will be) 7 year old, also in May half term (may see you there OP?). We're not going to try to do the whole thing, as we want him to have fun and not feel like it's a chore. We'll probably head straight to Stornaway missing out the drag up to the But of Lewis, and may leave out Vattersay too.
Anyone got any insider info on the ferries? If I'm reading the CalMac website right it doesn't look like the timings are all that helpful. The Oban to Barra ferry only arrives about 6pm, so not much cycling will get done on day 1. And can anyone shed any light on the Lochboisdale to Oban ferry, which only shows on the winter timetable (and with a departure time of around 6am)? Does it run in the summer?
Thanks for all the other tips, too. Really, really helpful for planning!
The main road down Skye is one of the few bits of two lane road so is a bit shit compared to all the single track stuff but it wasn't that bad when we did it. Car speeds are obviously higher. I guess it depends what you are used to but for us it was acceptable to make the route work. It rained as well which didn't help but it always rains when I am on Skye. Just the usual defensive riding needed.
Don't try to do too much is my advice tho. think carefully about daily distances and don't forget the time it takes for the ferries
One bit you can do to shorten things is not to go down ardnamurchan to Kilchoan get to mull - go the other way at Salen and go via Strontian to lochaline / fishish ferry instead
Lochboisdale goes to Mallaig in the Summer. It's my favourite route.
Great thanks all. My reckoning on the Oban->Oban would be:
1. Friday night or very very early Saturday morning drive up to Oban
2. Saturday. Ferry to Barra. Do some riding round Barra (up to 50Km)
3. Sunday. Ferry to Eriskay. Up South Uist. Probably aim for somewhere north of Creagory (75Km)
4. Monday. Up to Berneray. Aiming for 2ishPm Ferry. 45Km. Then up to Luskentyreish. A further 25Km (70Km total)
5. Tuesday. 15Km in morning then Tarbert Ferry. 11.40am on a tuesday. In the afternoon aim for a further 50Km down Skye (65Km total)
6. Wednesday. Remainder of Skye 50Km to Armadale. Mid afternoon ferry. Get another 15Kmish done. End up somewhere around Inverailort. 65Km total.
7. Thursday. Aim to get to Kilchoan 65Km
8. Friday: Ferry to Tobermory. Would probably spend the last day mooching around Mull and stay over on Mull. Can do any distance really. Minimum is 35Km.
9. Saturday: Craignure ferry back to Oban. Drive home.
Could add an extra day onto that somewhere and come back on the Sunday. also have a day spare in the mix on that route as mainland-mull-mainland is do able in a day easily.
A wee footnote to the above setup:
day 2, while on Barra, go down to the end of the road and the double beach on Vatersay then if practical, have a picnic on the beach. Whichever side is more sheltered! Listen out for the corncrakes in the machair.
You'll also pass the monument at the crash site of a WW2 Catalina.
I did this a few years ago, one of my best trips on the bike.
I left van in Oban, ferry to Barra. Camping near the airfield. Then slowly made my way north. After the butt of lewis, I cycled back down to Tarbert, didn't enjoy this stretch, headwind and not a great road.
Ferry across to Skye, I just took the main road through the island, wasn't too bad. Camped near the Sligachan hotel (great food).
I wasn't rushed for time, so I rode back via Fort William, can't remember the exact route but was pleasant enough.
Overall was a fantastic trip, looking to do similar this year. In the years since, I've explored most the other Hebridean islands. All fantastic.
7. Thursday. Aim to get to Kilchoan 65Km
8. Friday: Ferry to Tobermory. Would probably spend the last day mooching around Mull and stay over on Mull. Can do any distance really. Minimum is 35Km.
9. Saturday: Craignure ferry back to Oban. Drive home.
7. Allow yourself some extra time to go out to the Ardnamurchan Point lighthouse - cafe there. Check the ferry times as if you miss one, it’s a 2 hour wait
8. If I’m around you can stop by for a coffee - if you’re up for it, ride the west side of Mull - there’s a campsite at Calgary or another at Craignure
From a purely cycling point of view there isn't a lot to go at, although the full length will take a couple of days. The ferries will slow you down.
However if sitting on some rather nice beaches is your thing or a bit of history in the far north then all is good.
Good parking at a dive centre south of Oban if I remember correctly.
We did a similar trip back in September. Drove up to oban and stayed at the youth hostel. The ferry over to Barra was in the afternoon so we went straight to the hostel in Castlebay.
Day 1 rode to North uist and stayed at a campsite/hostel called the tractor sheds.
Day 2 to Stornoway where we stayed for 2 nights at the heb hostel.
Day 3 up to butt of Lewis and back.
Day 4 early ferry to Ullapool and the rode to Gairloch
Day 5 Gairloch to Applecross via torridon.
Day 6 Applecross to Mallaig. Went via Plockton then on to Skye, getting the ferry from Armadale.
Day 7 Mallaig to ardnamurchan, over to mull then ferry back to oban.
Have to say we both enjoyed the mainland riding more than the hebrides.
Did you actually see any of the Hebrides?
Did you actually see any of the Hebrides?
Indeed.
To say nothing of how did you find time for 2nd breakfast, elevensies , first and second lunch, afternoon tea, dinner and supper ?
A slightly left field suggestion. But to get back from ullapool how about cycle to Mallaig, nc500 I know, ferry to Lochboisdale, retrace your steps to barra then ferry to oban. I know it sounds a bit daft but the ferries are pretty much free and the ferry to oban is first thing so you can get that ferry and drive home that day.
Indded it would have been nice to have the time to see more of the hebrides. Unfortunately I only have a limited amount of time off work. If we could have spent 2 weeks doing the same trip we would have.
Well, we went.
It was amazing.
Weather totally played ball! very very lucky.
Gloaty photos:
That's not bike packing, you've got panniers. Looks great.
Brilliant! Been watching the weather closely, we head up in 7 days…will it last???
Just finished it on Thursday weather was great past week. We had about 2 hours of rain one day and that was it.
Any tips or recommendation from those who’ve been recently? We’re going south to north over 5 riding days with a rest day in the middle, staying in B&Bs/pubs/pods.
That’s not bike packing, you’ve got panniers. Looks great.
Doesn't matter how you do it, as long as you do it!
Great photos
Brilliant! Been watching the weather closely, we head up in 7 days…will it last???
Forecast is for another week at least due to the jet stream being somewhere over Iceland - blue skies, but light northerly winds means it’s not too hot - great weather for being outdoors doing stuff
Looks Ace
and
Perfect timing for a thread reboot, we have just started planning to do it in Sept (hopefully less midge 🙂 ).
I am sure the weather will wait until we are done 😉
@fasthaggis (or anyone else) if you want the route plan we did, DM me and I'll send you gpx files and spreadsheets with all the planning in it! It was quite a feat to work out all the ferry timings etc.
Worth mentioning for anyone heading up this way that the Mallaig - Lochboisdale ferry service is currently suspended until the end of June