[Closed] Headset creek from cups moving. Should I be worried?

Yeah you want to be fixing that pronto as it’ll be the frame that’s now oversized. Quick fix is something like Loctite 638 bearing retainer, another option is finding a headset with a deeper cup, or you could try and fashion some kind of shim. You definitely need to stop that movement though

Try a different headset cup, I've had them out of tolerance before.

I certainly do. I’m very pissed at this. I’ve only had it a week and not riden past the end of my street.

Like you say though. Deeper Cups and maybe some adhesive.

Hopefully it’s the cup that’s the issue, maybe deformed when it was pressed in.

The last owner used it with a lot of bearing play. Was surprised how short the cane creek is pressed into the frame. Perhaps it’s feasible that the movement eventually deformed the cup. I hope anyway!!

Should I be avoiding the old screw driver and a mallet method of removal?

If its 49mm external nukeproof do a deep cup.
If its 56 zero I don't think deep cups are available.
A metal pipe, like a curtain rail with slits cut into it then splayed out make a decent cup remover.

52 mm bearing so likely 56mm

I’ve just looking I depth and there are tiny scratch like hairlines splits on the paint. I’m hoping it’s the paint that’s split not the frame. Tbh they are tiny but another thing to worry me!

I tried knocking the cup but it won’t shift so it’s clearly not massively worn the frame.

Haven’t even ridden it yet ffs

I've just rebuilt an old Kona as a rigid single speed, 2009 frame I think. I've properly hammered it, the old headset cups fell out with gravity, new ones needed to be pressed in and are solid.

As the bike is 2 years old and the original cup is moving its probably a tolerancing issue. IKt may have left some damage in there but the movement is minimal so hopefully a new cup or even some loctite will be the answer

The guys in the shop said they will reach out to orange for advice. If its a warranty job im not the original owner and have no paperwork but apparently they are quite relaxed on that front.

Cheers

Best thing to do, talk to Orange. They’ll see you right as best they can 👍

Ovalized head tube, my mates Alpine 6 did the same, he got a warranty replacement front triangle, but was the original purchaser.
A deeper lower cup and maybe an Intend stiff master could get some more life from it, but if ridden hard, it’s going to hammer the rest of the head tube oval.

I ovalised the headset on the tandem. deeper cups and bearing fit sorted it totally Never moved again and no issues in thousands of miles - and the tandem hammers headsets as you can't lift the front over bumps and you can brake so hard

Don't worry about it deep cups and bearing fit loctite will sort it

Oh well looks like it it ovalised. The shop has emailed orange for advice on this one. Either way as long as I know I’m able to loctite in a deeper headset I’m happy. Not read a single person that this hasn’t worked for yet.

Worked for me too in an old steel frame. Not heard a peep from it in 9 years

BUT,

I've got another bike which worries me more. Ti frame with drop-in integrated cups. Creaking like a bastard. I've dropped the forks out a few times and lubed up (tried RG2 and Copper grease) which shuts it up for a bit, but as Stainless Steel is much harder than Ti, I'm worried that all this movement can only be bad news for the frame.

Any reason why I couldn't/shouldn't use 641 on integrated cups?

Datasheet says heat to 250c for disassembly - so heat gun should shift it. And fit the best bearings you can so you don't need to replace them!"

Oh well looks like it it ovalised. The shop has emailed orange for advice on this one. Either way as long as I know I’m able to loctite in a deeper headset I’m happy. Not read a single person that this hasn’t worked for yet.

Touch wood that solves it for you OP.

I'd recommend the Superstar -2deg slackeriser headset in the Stage 4, with fork adjusted to 130mm.

But if you're after a normal headset, I have both Hope and Superstar ones in the correct format that I've been meaning to sell.

I like the idea of inserting a -2degree offset headset. a few people have done it.

Only thing is if not ridden the bike yet so would be guessing the feel. Plus going to 130mm forks will involve a £400 bill considering the parts and etc from silverfish. I doubt i could get it all done for less that £340 ish even if i shopped around. basically the 120mm 29er fork needs a damper replacement to exceed 120mm as well as a new airshaft.

Waiting on Orange to advise now. The shop indicated that the headtube is still round and its only minor although under magnification you can see a few tiny factures in the paint.

Cheers

I'm sure it would still be totally fine with a 120mm fork, I just haven't tried it myself.

The BB height is not particularly low to start with.

So as expected the shop are using Loctite to install the original head cup back in. Fingers crossed is the best grade.

At leas the shop is on the edge of a bike park so they can at least try it out for me. Worst comes to worse, it goes again and i have to get a cup made at a greater depth and re-bond it.

Apparently the frame wear is negligible and the shop struggles to replicate the issue so that's likely to suggest that Loctite strength is probably more than needed. 👍

So as expected the shop are using Loctite to install the original head cup back in. Fingers crossed is the best grade.

At leas the shop is on the edge of a bike park so they can at least try it out for me. Worst comes to worse, it goes again and i have to get a cup made at a greater depth and re-bond it.

Apparently the frame wear is negligible and the shop struggles to replicate the issue so that's likely to suggest that Loctite strength is probably more than needed. 👍