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I know they exist, I've seen them!
I'd like to slacken my head angle by 1 degree, I'm sure someone will want to know why - "just because" or "I like to fiddle with stuff" or perhaps "my old 26" Cove was noticeably slacker than my Intense Tracer", I'm not sure really.
How do they work, I assume they've got to be install very carefully or instead of pointing the fork slightly forward, they may point it slightly left or right?
Can they be adjusted without removing them? Can you say slacken by 2 degrees, think "that's a bit much" after a ride and pull them back a bit, or perhaps slacken them off for a week in the Alps and pull them back for back home.
Who makes the best one? Can Creek seem to have invented the thing.
Any drawbacks? I've read that the angle adjusting frame bearings can cause issues like the tyre hitting the seat post - assume that can't happen with head sets?
Ive read cane creeks are creaky due to the design. No complaints with my works components. Yes the cups need to be in straight but even I managed to beat them in with a hammer & get it right.
I have a works components one and a superstar one, both are good quality.
They need to be in straight, its not hard to do, they have lines to help.
They are not adjustable, pick your angle and live with it.
Only drawback is they are frame specific so you might not get the angle you want and they add a lot to your stack height so your steerer might be too short if its already close.
I'm unlikely to ever buy a normal headset again.
Just emailed Works after cancelling a Cane Creek order. I was asking about adjustability...
I may be re-ordering the Cane Creek by the sounds of things.
Had 2 Works ones. Both work well and have lasted fine. One installed by me with a hammer, the other by my LBS.
Most aren't adjustable and the ones which do multiple angles aren't a quick change. I've got a Works -2 deg ZS56/EC44 and a Cane Creek +1/-1.5 EC56/ZS44. Both add about 15mm of stack height, the Works above, the CC below.
Apparently the Cane Creeks are more difficult to fit correctly, otherwise they creak. When I mentioned knocking the CC in with a mallet and block of wood Bird said come and visit and they'd do it free of charge with the proper tool - and when I asked my LBS about it they were also pretty insistent that it'll rarely go in well with the more percussive approach...
The CC does +1 to -1.5 deg in 0.5 deg steps by changing the lower cup. The angle change depends on how long your headtube is, with gimbals keeping everything neatly in line. The Works design has no gimbals and the angles and offsets are fixed to match the head tube length.
How crucial is it to get the Works ones in perfectly aligned?
I had one a while back, which I knocked in with a hammer and a block of wood as usual. It seemed fine,which I guess answers my own question, but it always bugged me that it probably wasn't perfect.
roverpig - Member
How crucial is it to get the Works ones in perfectly aligned?I had one a while back, which I knocked in with a hammer and a block of wood as usual. It seemed fine,which I guess answers my own question, but it always bugged me that it probably wasn't perfect.
Iirc, which I might not, they've said it can be up to 2 degrees out between the two cups.
I had an FSA one. It was a tiny touch creaky but worked great. Lines to help you install the headset cups (tapered headtube) then the cups and bearings had a spherical cup & cone interface so aligned themselves.
My works one isnt quite in line but it seems fine
I've got a works components for sale in Cardiff if youre interested and it fits?
[url= http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/works-components-angleset-1-deg-ec44ec49?replies=1#post-7943531 ]Ad here[/url]
cheers
EDIT
willing to help you fit it
I have a works -1 in my inbred, fitted it myself. No problems with it at all.