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So bought DT Swiss SP hubs (don't think I'll do this again), DT XR391 rims and Sapin spokes. Built the rear wheel and it was fine, I knew it was right...Then I started to doubt my self, so started googling what tension range the spokes should be, then completely missread the tension gauge as I had forgot to check the conversion chart. probably put a bit too much tension on the rim but not that much. Can't remeber now but I was going very cautiosly as I wasn't convinced I was doing the right thing....
After realising I hadn't checked the conversion chart and then checking it, started to back the tension of the spokes, some spokes were spining so I decided to pretty much start again and makes sure all the threads are nicely oiled, I had done this previously but just wanted to make sure. Also replaced a couple of nipples (DT squorx Alu ones that cam with the rims) as they'd rounded a bit.
Now I can't seem to get the bloody thing true, its like a ****ing prigle!! Its all detensioned at the moment with a view to going agian this eveining, but have I ballsed this rim up? Is there any way back from this or is this one now a right off?.....
Not happy....
Needs more pics 🙂
Yes.
Extra care required when rimming (apparently...). 🙃
Probably not. Pringled rim is salvageable, tension correctly and evenly, should be good 👍
Cool, I'll keep at it then, very carefully....
Needs more pics 🙂
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Sorry to disappoint...
I’m a bit surprised you’ve rounded squorx nipples - I’ve never had that issue and must have built at least 6 wheels with them.
It would be surprising if you had utterly mangled the rim but I’m not an expert on it.
I’d make sure the tension is back off all the spokes and start again. I normally screw all the nipples tight enough to just cover the threads on the spine so you can see any threads. If it’s still relatively loose I’ll work round half a turn at a time tightening all the spokes so nothing is loose.
I then have a park tools tension meter thing and I’ll then go round and nip the drive side up all to the same tension - but one that’s quite a lot lower then my final planned tension. Then do the same on the non drive side.
At this point I’ll then check the wheel for roundness first as I find it’s better to get the wheel round at this stage rather than worrying about side to side trueness. Get that right then have a look at side to side true and start working on that so it’s pretty straight.
Then I’ll whack the driveside up to my full end tension planned so they’re all the same.
I’ll then have a look at the dish and get the rim in the middle by altering the non drive side before a good go at true by tensioning spokes on the non drive side.
I’ll then usually de-stress all the spokes thoroughly before a final true pretty much.
All my wheels are pretty good tension wise round each side and I haven’t had any issues with any so far.
I’m a bit surprised you’ve rounded squorx nipples – I’ve never had that issue and must have built at least 6 wheels with them.
Haven't rounded the torx end just a couple of the square bits where a spoke key goes. I was getting a bit frustrated....
That all sounds good though, I've only built one set of wheels before and they worked out great. Also redished and trued a few. I should have just stopped when I had it right first time, but dreaded doubt set in....
With all spokes de- tensioned is the rim still true? If the distortion is more than 10mm then you’re probably going to struggle to get it true whilst keeping the spoke tensions within a reasonable range.
Hmm dunno, might take it apart and lay it on a flat surface to check then...
Don't oil prolock nipple threads. Grease the phr washer and nipple shoulders.
Straight pull spokes will need some mechanical holding as you get up to tension. I normally do this with fingers as I don't have the right tool and modified pliers tens to do a bit of damage...but oh boy do my hands hurt by the end.
Sapim d-lights make this easier as you use the spanner flats to stop them rotating.
If you don't have it, the squorx t-handle tool is a must.
J-bend spokes twist up as well so ideally all spokes should be clamped as close to the nipple as possible when working on them.
Knipex plier wrenches work in a pinch but do mark the finish on black spokes, the Park ones or other specific clamping tools are considerably more ergonomic and don't leave scratches.
+1 on not lubing the threads on Pro-lock treated nipples as well.
Joebristol's approach is exactly what I'd do, although due to lack of time and inclination, Ryanbuildswheels did my recent set for me - because I only build for myself and don't do it often enough to get fast at it!
UPDATE - All's good in the hood!
Cheers everyone. Took my time and pulled the rear back from the dead. Finished the front as well. Well pleased.
They're lighter than I thought they'd be as well. Front 767g rear 865g. Going on my Cotic Cascade so won't be getting a hammering.
Now just need the tubeless tape to arrive. Come on Merlin/Royal mail....
Nice work - being patient and methodical normally sorts out most wheel builds I reckon. Enjoy!
Not a bad weight for an mtb wheelset that
Yeah pleased with that. Bought parts from R2 bike in Germany, split the orders to get them below the £135 import duty limit but even with 3 delivery fees of 7.50 Euros each they still came in at £306.59. Had to buy the Squorx tool @ £15 and then rim tape but don't think thats bad for a nice set of wheels.