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been looking for a while, currnetly riding a large DMR trailstar, and as much as i love it i couldnt help feel it could be improved.
So i was shpping around for suitable frames, of course it means going to a boost back end...
Almost Bought an Mmbop, then they sold out, last night did a buy on a sonder transmitter.
i'm planning on moving everything from the DMR across were possible. but got a few things in my mind
the DMR is set up on 2.4/2.5's and the transmitter is 2.6/2.8 with a 12mm lower BB already, also, im going to be putting my Push converted 140mm pikes on it, 10mm under the recommended 150mm
So im goign to end up with a much lower BB
im assuming i can raise the front by 10mm with some sort of headset?
and, peversley run fatter tyre up back? (how do people feel about that on hardtails) i appriciate wider grippier front is the norm
I can either run spacers o nthe rear wheel, or look into an alternate rear wheel, i wont bee getting it re dished or re hubbed, it makes more sense to pick up a cheap wheel (its a spank 350 so its a resonable wheel)
So im goign to end up with a much lower BB
It'll be a few mm below stock. You won't really notice it compared to stock. Even if you had the recommended length forks, you would notice a much much bigger difference.
10mm at the fork means approx 4mm at the BB, not accounting for sag... You'll be fine as is...
Boost adaptors work OK. There is a link and a spacer in the top link of the rear mech on Shimano (dunno about SRAM) which will move the mech over about 4mm inboard when you swap the spacer round. You may well need to do this.
My mate just re-framed a Kona Process to a Transmitter on my suggestion (he’s got a new full suss and wanted a ‘new’ hardtail).
So it’s got a 140mm revelation and it’s 650b with 2.3” Specialized tyres. His non boost rear hub was in a bad way so I suggested if he wanted to avoid a whole new wheel he just re-hubbed his existing rim. So he picked up a decent enough Bitex I found (needed centre lock) and had a go at building his first wheel. So far so good.
After 3 rides he reckons it’s ace -
no issues with bb height so far. I reckon if you have 170mm cranks the only time you might have an issue is if you’re in a deep rut.
He’s even got away with running his 2x non-boost crank with a NW ring in the big ring position. Old Shimano Xt or SLX mech (I forget which) and an 11-36 cassette. I suggested a wider range one but he’s light and very good at hill climbing.
The only difficult thing on the Sonder is apparently the rear brake hose routing - he’s had to run it external for now as he was defeated after a few hours of trying to sort it. I’ve heard other similar comments about the routing.
Thanks Bill, i didnt know about the spacer, ive got an XT 11 speed so fingers crossed there
Joe, thanks this is exactly what im doing, im on 172.5mm cranks, but both Bb widths are 73mm, i currently have the chainring on spacers on the inside of the spider. im sure i can move that outboard if required if i go with Boost rear end
i could.. give it a go re hubbing 😀 that might be a learning experience
Rehubbing isn’t too bad a job - I found what spokes he needed and he followed the Sheldon Brown guide and it all went ok.
Thanks Bill, i didnt know about the spacer, ive got an XT 11 speed so fingers crossed there.
The new SLX 11spd one I fitted last week had one, so I think it will.
to update
i bought a transmitter frame and its excellent, not quite as somplaint as the DMR but makes up for it in every other way...
re the rear brake routing... aced that
gear cable inner
one of the rubber gear cable condom things slid over it, so the barrel bit of the cable is inside it.. hook the rubber over the end of your brake hose and guide through