[Closed] Hardly any lever throw after bleed

2 common issues would be pistons not retracting or the system is overfilled (bleed block too thin).

Thanks alot bigyan.

Do the pistons have to be 100% flush into the bores? As i don't think theyve ever been.

Is it best to follow the procedure again with a better bleed block?

Pushed pistons 100% back today. Bled to the sram video, still the same. Levers feel nothing like that of the same brakes in the shops.
Virtually instant, nearly no travel.

Stuck all new pads on to try and centre better, but made no difference.

Can anyone help please?

Can you see the pistons retract when you release the brake lever?

I haven't actually checked. But they must do if they brake/grip the disc and then when released the wheel rolls. The binding is minimal now, it's more so the lever feel

Get Shimano brakes, problem Solved.

Shimano are more inconsistent than sram, and less powerful. But the issue is lack of lever feel after bleeding, which may even occur with shimano

If it's happening on both you must be doing something wrong and doing the the thing on both.

I'd go right back to the beginning and start again, perhaps follow another online guide other than SRAMs as that might entail you doing things slightly differently.

Is the piston spacer you are using the right size???

Have you put brand new pads in there too (and maybe a new rotor, just for fun) ?

Maybe shove the old ones back in and see what happens then. If they feel different then I guess it's more than likely overfilled system. If they still feel the same then I'm on sticky pistons (I guess you'd get one pull of the lever with a different bite point and then end up back to square 1)

Same pads as previous ones? I find the lever pull is almost zero for 2 rides with new pads in my Guides. Brake tends to be bled at time of pad replacement and I put it down to a slight overfill and slightly thicker pads. I've the same brand as replacements this time so hopefully less of an issue.
Make sure pistons are fully retracted, try a thicker bleed block.

I've had something similar a couple of times. It seems to resolve itself within a shortish ride.

Otherwise they might be overfilled. Let some fluid out and see what happens.

Found with my guides that the lever throw increases with pad age. Never had it with other brakes, apparently it is normal with sram brakes. I bet the new pads, especially if they are not sram originals is the problem.

Tried both with pistons slightly out with a bleed block supplied with the kit, and then a 2nd time with them 100% fully into the caliper bores.
Both times left the exact same results on the lever.

I then stuck genuine sram pads in all round, firstly because one set were near done anyway, and secondly because I thought aligning the caliper better might help.

Still no luck! It's certainly rideable, just not ideal how the lever feels. It's thrown a spanner in the works going to the bike shop and comparing too, although with new fluid and pads mine should feel identical?!!

Just ride it. I bet it sorts itself out after a couple of runs.

(If it doesn't, or it fails horribly and sends you into a tree, feel free to come back and give me some abuse.)

Agreed, ride it and it'll be fine after 3 rides or so (depends how long the ride is).

I always think I've done a good job of the bleed on my SRAM Codes (and previously Guides) if the lever is firm with little travel. They start coming in more with use/wear.

If the brakes are properly set up, there should be very little travel at the lever and a very firm feel, but they shouldn't be dragging. To avoid overfilling, I bleed them with old pads in place, remove the bleed block, crack open the bleed nipple and push the pistons back into the cylinder using a flat bladed screwdriver, then close the bleed nipple. This ensures that the system is full, but not overfull.

Had the same on last Wednesdays night ride. I'd put new pads in and they bound a bit, I rode the whole night with the front brake binding. Was totally shatered by the end of the ride. Normally they after a short descent scrubbing the pad it frees, not this time.
I stripped out the pads, put the bleeding edge thing in opned up the port and pushed the pistons right back almost flush to the caliper. Closed the port and lightly pumped the lever. One piston was sticky, a bit pumping out the pistons and levering them back in, now they all move consistantly.

Pads back in, there's a large amount of throw in the lever. A re-bleed and all is good.

Thanks alot for the suggestions guys. I've still not sorted the problem as I've had a couple of warranty claims I've waited for.

Could I connect the bleeding edge port, open it up, pump the lever to push a little fluid out then close? Would that have the desired effect?

You can do that no doubt but I can't say for certain of that will cure it.

Worth a go though?