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I wondered what the units of the numbered lines on the top of Nukeproof bars were - they couldn’t be in degrees as they’re too far apart. So I fell into a curiosity trap. Do let me know if I’m mistaken!
The markings on my Horizon V2 go from -4 to 4 (so 8 units), over a distance of 20mm. The circumference of a 31.8mm bar is 100mm, so each unit is 1/40th or 9 degrees.
When the bar is fitted with zero in the stem clamp gap as in the photo above, the upsweep will be inline with the head angle. For the upsweep to be vertical, the bar would need to be rotated forward by 90 degrees minus the head angle (so 26 for a 64 head angle). That’s almost up to the -3 line which is at 27 degrees (3x9).
The relationship between sweep and rotation is complex due to the rise and shape of the bar. The designers seem to have understood it though, as you might expect. Conveniently, rotating the bar by one marking changes the upsweep by roughly one degree (or more for each unit the further away from zero you go). Not sure what the relationship with backsweep is as that's more difficult to measure.
Go with whatever feels good for you, but that might be helpful or mildly interesting. Personally I need the upsweep to be vertical, and find upsweep inline with the head angle (as in the above photo) to be very painful. OneUp seems to agree on vertical as a good starting point, as they have alignment lines for vertical for different head angles marked on their bars:
Spank bars have numbered markings similar to the Nukeproof, but the scale and the distance between them suggests they aren't as nearly as thought through for setting the vertical and adjustments.
Most bars don't have any marking though, so I use a level app on my phone. As it's difficult to set the bike perfectly vertical, just measure the angle on each side, add them up and then halve it to work out the upsweep. Or just go by feel!
“Ignore the marks. Just rotate the bars until they are comfortable for you.”
This. Even the handlebar designers appear to be undecided whether rise should be vertical or on the steering axis. Changing the roll changes so many things, best to just go by feel.
Ignore the marks. Just rotate the bars until they are comfortable for you.
I did say - "Go with whatever feels good for you, but that might be helpful or mildly interesting." And that's what I did, but the marks are useful for the starting point or when refitting a bar.
I can't cope with having a measurement scale on something I own and not knowing how it works.
There's a whole thread on MTBR about this - https://www.mtbr.com/threads/the-internet-has-conflicting-opinions-on-handlebar-roll-angle-what-is-the-answer.1155113/
I'm in the "rise more or less vertical" camp because, especially with slack-angled bikes, in line with the head angle means that for me the bars feel like they're sloping downwards and I loose a good amount of reach because upsweep becomes extra backsweep.
Its not possible to take that Vital guide at all seriously when they say :
To re-position the brake lever, release the bar clamp using the appropriate hex key or Torx wrench, move it to the desired position, and tighten the clamp to spec again. On two-bolt clamp interfaces, we prefer to tighten the top of the clamp first, to remove the gap between the two halves of the clamp, and then snug up the bottom.
Ignore the marks. Just rotate the bars until they are comfortable for you.
There's been an article on Pinkbike in the last day or two regarding setups and bar angles/roll... Based upon it i went into the garage and changed mine, rolling back about 2-3mm at the stem.... I couldn't get on with it... It felt really dragged back, even though it was a really small amount, i don't know what it equates to in degrees etc... but i put a mark on the bars/stem with yellow pen, it was roughly 2-3mm. Just felt WRONG.. I wonder if it's something you need to give more time to.
Its not possible to take that Vital guide at all seriously when they say :
Some stems now have that written on them, i think our Status has that, you have to completely tighten the top first. Obviously that's uncommon, but maybe more of a thing now than in the past ?
I am aware that some items are designed like that - however thats not what they are saying. The photos also show Hope brakes which are absolutely NOT designed like that.
i always align the forward facing 0 with horizontal, not stem centreline and work from there
There’s been an article on Pinkbike in the last day or two regarding setups and bar angles/roll… Based upon it i went into the garage and changed mine, rolling back about 2-3mm at the stem…. I couldn’t get on with it… It felt really dragged back, even though it was a really small amount, i don’t know what it equates to in degrees etc… but i put a mark on the bars/stem with yellow pen, it was roughly 2-3mm. Just felt WRONG.. I wonder if it’s something you need to give more time to.
About one degree if your bars are normal sweeps and rise, and you started with the upsweep roughly vertical.
One degree does make a difference. I get pain up the outside of my wrists with an 8 degree, but fine with a 9 degree.
I once had a handlebar where the cut marks on the end were just regular decals. Before I took 10mm off each end I checked with a ruler and one end the '10mm' mark was 9mm in and on the other it was 12mm from the end.
Yeah don't trust graphics for things like this.
They're just a guide. There's no formula. Ragley bars have them on the top, with the 0 almost in the right place. Spank RF etc, have them on the front with the 0 never in the right place. It's just so you can put them back where you had them before if you move them, or change stems.
Sometimes you can think about things too much 🙂
Nice had several cheap and high end bars over the years and those markings are often not even correctly centered on the bar. So i just ignore them now and adjust them to where I’m comfortable.
Sometimes you can think about things too much 🙂
What, on STW? Never!
p.s. What saddle angle for learning how to wheelie?