Going 1 x 10 Narrow...
 

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[Closed] Going 1 x 10 Narrow Wide on my 2013 Camber Comp?

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So, it currently has an X9 Type 2 rear mech and a SRAM double and bash up front.
I want a nice and simple 1x10 set up.

What do I need to do? Anyone in the Cambridgeshire area want to help me as I am new to this side of stuff having recently had my mechanic buddy move away.

What do I need?


 
Posted : 18/02/2014 8:22 pm
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In theory just a RaceFace narrow wide chainring up front in whatever size best suits your fitness. You may need slightly longer chainring bolts, but it's a very easy thing to do. Then you ditch the front mech and shifter.


 
Posted : 18/02/2014 8:29 pm
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Sounding promising so far. Longer or shorter bolts?

How would I know what bolt circle to order?

Will the chain need shortening?

I am proper shit with this stuff.


 
Posted : 18/02/2014 8:31 pm
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I just used the bolts from my bash to attach it to the middle ring of my XT cranks. Took about 10 mins, swapping the mech and shifters from 9spd to 10 took longer but you already have all that including the clutch mech.


 
Posted : 18/02/2014 8:35 pm
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I would certainly someone a drink for helping me out with this.

I'm bound to balls it up.


 
Posted : 18/02/2014 8:38 pm
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Do I need to remove cranks and split the chain or can I drop the chain onto the BB and just swap the rings?


 
Posted : 18/02/2014 8:52 pm
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follow from top...

Grab beer,pour into glass..take sip.

Remove shifter ,cable and front mech (take another gulp)

Remove chainset,rings from said chainset.. add an absolute black 104bcd in 34t Flavour in a colour of your choice,remove approx three chain links.
reattach chain with quicklink and then check length..remove a length at a time to ensure under decent shifting and tension across the block (finish the beer) look at the clean set up on the bike and realise you've lost a load of weight.

Jobs a good'un
Bruce


 
Posted : 18/02/2014 8:53 pm
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Do not do as bruce says and remove 3 links until you have checked what size your current big front ring is. 3 links out might be valid on a std triple but I think he's missed you saying you have double + bash.

Yes, you need to split the chain to get the front mech off, but you will only need to shorten it if you have a smaller front ring than the biggest ring you have at the front currently, and if as you say you have double + bash you've probably got a 32t at the front anyway. If you going for a bigger front ring you might even need to add links.


 
Posted : 18/02/2014 8:57 pm
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Literally a terrifying concept . I'm just a bit scared of starting with a bike that works and ending up with one that doesn't . It just doesn't come naturally to me.


 
Posted : 18/02/2014 9:03 pm
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Where abouts are you? I'm towards Bishops Stortford and occasionally go up to Thetford. It's really easy honestly.


 
Posted : 18/02/2014 9:12 pm
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I'm in Ely, work in Pampisford but would happily travel.

I may stick it in the LBS and have then set up the 2bljss tyres too.


 
Posted : 18/02/2014 9:17 pm
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You should give it a go yourself and take it to the LBS if you screw it up. If you're using a 30t or 32t narrow wide ring up front just see how it runs with the same number of links in the chain and take a couple out if it looks slack. Buy a quick link to rejoin the chain after you've taken the front mech and shifter off and jobs a good'un. I'm sure there are some videos on YouTube if you get stuck.


 
Posted : 18/02/2014 9:35 pm
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This really is an easy job.

Buy a 10spd chain link (I use KMC ones), and a n/w ring (104mm bcd) of your choice size.
Tools - allen keys, chain splitter, maybe a specific tool for your cranks depending on what they are.

Split the chain. If it has quick links just open it there.
Remove front mech, front shifter and cabling.
Remove cranks and take out the chainrings. You may keep the bashguard and the new ring as you won't have any issues with the bolt length then plus you'll keep the bash for ring-protection 😉
Attach ring/bash.
Put cranks back on. Thread chain on.

If you have the tools for taking off the cranks, and some allen keys, that's all you shoudl need (maybe a chain splitter if the chain has one of those one-use quicklinks. If so, you'll also need to buy a new 10spd chain link.)

Forget about chain length. Once back together shift through all the gears and if the mech looks ok in both top and bottom gears, then you're good to go.


 
Posted : 18/02/2014 9:43 pm
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It already had a KMC chain on it, and I think the crankset comes off with a big Allen Key . It's a BB30

I don't want the bash back on.

I think I have a chain splitter on a multi tool.

I would be lying if I said I was confident.


 
Posted : 18/02/2014 10:04 pm
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36/22 is what's on the current Double and Bash.

Looking to replace with a 32 or maybe a 34


 
Posted : 18/02/2014 10:37 pm
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Anyone else have anything to add? or any kind offers of help greatly recieved.


 
Posted : 19/02/2014 12:40 pm
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I did it 1 month ago and it really is a very easy job. Just have a go your self, whats the worst that could happen? Maybe make the chain to short? Even if you do you could make it longer again or just buy a new chain.


 
Posted : 19/02/2014 12:47 pm
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If you're going 36T as your biggest front currently to a 34 or a 32T single, then I'd reckon that you don't even need to take any chain out, it'll still work fine. The more mechanically advantaged might want to lose a link but that'll also depend whether it's already set up with as short a chain as you can get away with. If you aren't sure, don't.

So, it's:

split chain and remove
remove front derailleur, shifter and cables (marvel at how much it all weighs)
remove chainset
remove rings and bash and replace with your new NW ring (you might need new bolts, if the old ones bottom out before tightening, in which case you could either find washers to fit or refit the bash ring, even temporarily while the new ones come from CRC)
refit chainset
refit chain

Go ride, while rejoicing at how manly you feel with no granny gear.


 
Posted : 19/02/2014 1:02 pm
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Split chain - Put to the side
Remove cranks - (Makes it easier)
Drink a beer
Remove front mech, shifter, cables - (Chuck in spares box)
Remove the chainrings and bash - (Chuck in spares box)
Drink a beer
Attach new chainring, if using bash still you should be able to use old chainring bolts, if not get some short ones, I have RaceFace Singlering bolts, and they are spot on.
Put cranks back in
Get chain, and thread back through rear mech, round cassette and over your new chainring.
Adjust chain length correctly ([url= http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Chain-Length-Basics-2012.html ]Chain Length Guide[/url])
Drink beer.
Should have no problems shifting through the set if it was shifting well before hand...

Sit back. Admire.


 
Posted : 19/02/2014 1:21 pm
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So, assuming I had no tools, what exactly do I need to order?

Chain ring bolt tool? (Which one)

Missing link pliers? (And the closers)

New bolts? (Which ones)

narrow wide ring in 104 BD?

Help me place my order please guys.

Thanks for all your help so far.


 
Posted : 20/02/2014 9:58 pm
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Chainrings just need an allen key... assuming you have a bike multitool or some allen keys already 🙂

No missing link pliers needed... has your chain got a quicklink? Just take it apart by hand.

New bolts - short 'singlespeed' bolts required (OR 4x washers the right size to use your existing bolts). [url= http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chainring-Bolts-Pack-of-5-Single-for-fixies-/171235009428?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item27de66e394 ]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chainring-Bolts-Pack-of-5-Single-for-fixies-/171235009428?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item27de66e394[/url]

One of these rings in whatever tooth number/colour you want [url= http://www.workscomponents.co.uk/works-components-104bcd-thick--thin-chainring-alternating-thickness-extended-tooth-design-270-p.asp ]http://www.workscomponents.co.uk/works-components-104bcd-thick--thin-chainring-alternating-thickness-extended-tooth-design-270-p.asp[/url]


 
Posted : 20/02/2014 10:06 pm
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My chain is a KMC ten speed with a missing link. Do I need to fit a new link or can it come apart and go back together.


 
Posted : 20/02/2014 10:09 pm
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They are reusable


 
Posted : 23/02/2014 9:58 am
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I'm interested in doing this as well.

Having always had triple chainsets I understand the ring would go on the middle position giving a good chain line.

However I recently moved to a double up front so if I went single ring on this chainset which is the best position to mount the chain ring, can't help but think neither position will be any good. Is this only possible on triple chain sets?


 
Posted : 23/02/2014 1:00 pm

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