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Is the carbon frame worth the upgrade over the aluminium?
Morning,
I ride an Advanced version but since getting it I've ridden an SLR and to be honest there isn't a huge difference, the biggest being the weight - I'm sure Giant will argue that the carbon one has better power transfer and is more vertically compliant but to a mere mortal like me smashing it round a field for an hour I'm not sure I'd notice these benefits.
The carbon TCX Advanced bikes are really very very good.
I've not ridden the ali one so can't comment on the comparison, however if they share the same geometry and handling then unless you're looking at racing at a high level then the extra, (if you can afford it), would be better spent on upgrading wheels, IOM.
However the Advanced, hmmm, nice 8)
Edit: I don't ride one, but a clubmate who is also national CX team member does
OK thanks I am looking at the SLR 1 as a bike for the occasional cyclocross and winte road training how do these bikes ride on the road
The Chef's nailed it...
Can't help with road input but I use my Alu Crux for on and off road and it's great for all I need but the geometry is very different to the TCX.
Apologies, non of that is much help at all!!!!
Adam, how do you find the TCX compares to the Crux for racing? Had a decent test ride on both and found the handling on the TCX a bit weird (I think the high BB.) Much preferred the Crux, though could probably get use to the TCX. Wondered if there was any real world drawbacks to the lower BB on the Crux, e.g. deep muddy courses?
I've got one, it's pretty bloody excellent but then I am in love with it. 😆
I fell for the carbon and the blue, Giant in St Paul's had both the SLR1 (the White one) in as well as the Adv. I rode the white one around the roundabout outside then the Adv and there was a marked difference IMO. Anyhoos I bought it. I had some problems with the SRaM brakes like most did, during that time I had use of a Propel and loved that too.
I'd say it all depends on what you intend to use it for. I race CX as well as long distance CX hacks ( Bridleways/trails/singletrack - pretty much anywhere I'd take an MTB ) and I'm overjoyed withe he bike. I've change nowt but the tyres but will change the wheels at some point over Xmas, as is its just great.
Is it worth the £'s above the SLR1? Only you can decide. I'd say try one of each, decide on that.
OK I have a test ride booked later this week. Will be using it for CX and also want to do some long distance mixed terrain trips 70 + miles and commute 10 miles each way (8 miles on disused railway) to work. And perhaps the odd club ride. Seriously tempted by the silver 2015 carbon but I could have 2nd set of wheels with the white slr
Hi,
Bought a SLR 2 alloy to do some racing on this season.
Wanted something cheap as not to destroy straight away in the nasty world of cross.
Used it for a few mixed road rides and felt comfortable and reasonably quick.
I have changed to different tyres for conditions and lighter but still feel the wheels are a bit sluggish.
Going to change to Crests before long.
A great quality and light frameset with a few component cuts to keep prices down.
A change of wheels should see you right!
Thanks,
Max
I was thinking about crests but they have a pressure limit for road tyres which is too low for road rides if I remember correctly. If it feels right I will be having the white tcx slr 1
Hi Mr B,
My Crux is Alu and with cantis so it’s not a direct comparison but I did race the Crux last year and the year before. While their both great I much prefer the TCX for racing, it feels far more nimble and adjustable, the Crux by comparison is stable to the point you have to treat it more like a mountain bike, it has a much more lazy feel to it and the courses that the Wessex League use don’t require Crux levels of security and in fact they often lend themselves to the TCX’s handling. I’m guessing that some of the stability I’m talking about comes from the lower bb of the Crux but the rest of the geom is also laid back compared to the TCX. Also the material is obviously very different.
I haven’t had any deep mud yet this year to try the TCX but my instinct is that the higher bb will help slightly but the more forward geometry may go against me while looking for grip in the bottom of the gloop – time will tell!!!
I was thinking about crests but they have a pressure limit for road tyres which is too low for road rides if I remember correctly.
Only if running tubeless, no?
If it feels right I will be having the white tcx slr 1
Where you buying from, if you don't mind me asking?
"I was thinking about crests but they have a pressure limit for road tyres which is too low for road rides if I remember correctly.
Only if running tubeless, no?"
yep only if running tubeless.
So I can run 37mm tyres on stans crest rims at 70 psi without any problems ?
That's an awfully high psi, guy.
I might commute on it with some wide slicks on road
This post on BR, seems to suggest you'll be fine with that setup using tubes:
http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20005&t=12885626#p17945785
I have the 2014 alloy TCX SLR and love it.
Changed the wheels and tyres straight away due to their weight (2200g a set), went for the Kinesis wheelset.
The Kinesis is a [url= http://paolocoppo.drupalgardens.com/content/kinesis-crosslight-disc-wheels-any-good ]decent priced wheelset[/url]. Shame they don't have an adaptable front hub, then one could use them with the 15mm thru-axle on the SLR 1.
Saying that, the wheels on the SLR 1 are supposed to be a bit lighter.
Ahha, glad Jamie's appeared he's been deliberating for about a year on what to get.. 😆
Have you chosen yet ?
Anyhoos back to the TCX.. You'll want to get hold of a small cable tie and some protective tape (I'm using blue bar tape, because, well my bikes blue) all because of Giants rather weird idea of routing the front brake hose through the inside of the front fork. Due to the amount of slack (for turning) in the hose there's some slack left over in the hose and it hangs loose over the front tyre and rubs. I've used a simple cable tie right at the top of the fork neck and wrapped some tape around it then tied the cable up tight right at the top of the fork to keep the cable well away from the tyre.
You'll look at it when you get the bike and think " eh, why didn't they route that inside the fork leg" ? I'm sure like I did, but then once you've ridden the bike you'll understand why they didn't, the hose is pretty tight fit as is and I'd expect they decided to give it a bit of flex down the outside of the leg.
Having met a few others who ride TCX's my simple fix is common amongst us lot.
That's all I have to comment on really other than I've now covered over 1300 miles on it and it's not missed a beat and performed excellently. I've recently competed in the Lakeland Monster X and the conditions were a mix of had gravel, peat bog, Forrest singletrack, deep mud, lanes, and stonking climbs and the way the bike coped and rode was just exceptional. The discs were a revelation, just being able to tap a few k's off whilst going full chat covered in mud and grit was so reassuring that it really enables to attack corners clearly a few k's more than your brain naturally wants to take them..
I will be changing one thing soon and that's to drop the inner front ring to a 34, the 36 doesn't allow me to spin up when climbing 25% + gradients, might try a wobbly ring as rotor now do them and my crankset is the 3D..
I'm not going to comment on tyres other than I'm a Challenge fanbouy, clearly the SAMs that came with it as well good enough for hacking, but racing wise the Limus/grifo's combination I use are just perfect.
Wheels after Xmas as said, I'm going carbon and Reynolds/Rovals are looking about right to me for both weight/price and bling factor. I'm not going tubeless despite the CX purists viewpoint, simply because I use the bike for lone CX hacks in the hills and longer distance stuff, I can't be bothered with a puncture that I can't fix out on the trails.
Well there you go, just some rambling thoughts from me.
Enjoy your test rides.
I got around the long front cable rubbing the front wheel simply by shortening it slightly as it was way too long causing it to bow out. Not had any turning issues as still plenty long enough to not cause issues.
Anyhoos back to the TCX.. You'll want to get hold of a small cable tie and some protective tape (I'm using blue bar tape, because, well my bikes blue) all because of Giants rather weird idea of routing the front brake hose through the inside of the front fork. Due to the amount of slack (for turning) in the hose there's some slack left over in the hose and it hangs loose over the front tyre and rubs. I've used a simple cable tie right at the top of the fork neck and wrapped some tape around it then tied the cable up tight right at the top of the fork to keep the cable well away from the tyre.
You'll look at it when you get the bike and think " eh, why didn't they route that inside the fork leg" ? I'm sure like I did, but then once you've ridden the bike you'll understand why they didn't, the hose is pretty tight fit as is and I'd expect they decided to give it a bit of flex down the outside of the leg.
Brakes on the 2015 TCX SLR 1 are TRP Spyres, so no hoses, just regular outers/inners which can be trimmed easily. The SLR 1 I saw in Giant Rutland at the weekend had the outer zip tied to a guide on the leading edge of the fork.
I have the 2014 alloy TCX SLR and love it.Changed the wheels and tyres straight away due to their weight (2200g a set), went for the Kinesis wheelset.
I'm glad I read that, as I think the wheels are damn heavy. Love the bike though.
OK quick update I purchased the white tcx slr 1 with spyre cable brakes (front routing is with cable tie on rear of fork and looks to be improved from last years guide) looking to get it muddy this weekend on a local loop. The wheels are reasonably heavy but the saving on the ALU model leaves a few £££ for some nice light wheels. Looking now for recommendations on light CX wheels. And as Jamie I think said in a previous thread thinking of an upgrade to shimano hydraulics if reports are good over the next 6 months. But so far very happy with my decision.
I'd be interested to know what the weight of the wheels are on the SLR 1. I'd guess around 2-2.2kg?
The only problem with different wheels for the SLR 1 you'll be looking for a 15mm compatible front hub, so assuming you want a matching set, Hope/Novatec/etc hubs if going for a custom build at a reasonable price.
Off the peg, it imagine it would be Hope + Crests/Alpha 400 maybe.
Shame the Kinesis CXD wheels don't come with adaptable hubs.
Having dropped their Pro MTB team, (and leaving a friend jobless as a consequence ), I can no longer recommend the Brand 👿
Pity, nice bike that.
^^ awe shame that, I'm only a newbie convert to the brand 😆
