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When setting up 29” ghetto tubeless what size tube should I use? Previously only ever done it to 26 & 27.5 wheels with a 20” tube. While that still work or do I need something bigger like a 24?
What rim ? Would you not be better off with tape ?
i nearly started a thread yesterday as im about to buy a bike with (26") tubed wheels.
ive done it before at that size on a moots i used to have, and would guess 26 would be ideal for 29. however, i had a further thought last night that id like to have answered?
basically, why do we split a tube in half, pray that our rim/tyre combo is good enough to hold and not burp, when we could just keep the tube in with some milk?
surely its not a weight issue as we're pretty much using the whole tube still minus a bit of trimming.
so why not just take the inner valve out, chuck some gunk in there, valve back, and ride?
theres got to be a flaw in this somewhere 😀
I did mine with 24", but if you already have 20" it should work fine.
Just use gorilla tape, all I ever use never failed.
basically, why do we split a tube in half, pray that our rim/tyre combo is good enough to hold and not burp, when we could just keep the tube in with some milk?
For the same reason slimey tubes don't always work; if something sharp goes into the tyre deep enough to stay put or comes out completely, fine, the sealant [i]should[/i] do its job. If the sharp thing goes into the tyre, punctures the tube but then the tyre + sharp thing is able to move relative to the tube because the pointy end is only slightly protruding on the inside of the tyre you'll just get more punctures until you find the sharp thing and remove it. With (ghetto) tubeless you can only get one puncture per sharp thing.
Ghetto FTW though- 60% of the time it works [i]every[/i] time.
+1 for gorilla tape. Worked fine on some old XC717 rims.
why not just take the inner valve out, chuck some gunk in there, valve back, and ride?
I rode like this for weeks on a borrowed gravel bike. It worked fine until managed to rip a sidewall but being tubeless wouldn't have helped either.
basically, why do we split a tube in half, pray that our rim/tyre combo is good enough to hold and not burp, when we could just keep the tube in with some milk?
Been doing this for years on bikes that are not tubeless like my hybrid and an old 90's road bike
Has saved me changing a tube a few times
20 or 24. I use ghetto tubeless on dinged rims that can no longer hold air for regular tubeless.
All my ghettos are 20" BMX or around inner tubes splits.
On 27.5, 29 and 700c wheels. Very nice and snug fit and lightest on top of that.
But I also managed 26" inner tube split OK on some 700c wheel as a test. Went so well that I left it and it is running fine for like 18 months...
Just try to buy/obtain inner tubes with removable valve core - Schwalbe and Conti tend to be like that, but also some Konas - makes sealant pouring/re-fill much easier.
Cheers!
I.
basically, why do we split a tube in half, pray that our rim/tyre combo is good enough to hold and not burp, when we could just keep the tube in with some milk?
Pinch flats?
Anyway, tried ghetto years ago at the beginning of my MTBing - it's just a faff that, IMO, ends up putting most people off tubeless.
It's not the answer to the OP's question, but proper tubeless (wheels, tape & tyres) is the most faffless and reliable way to go.
I've tried it with 26", it was ok, but a bit floppy. I normally use 20". Probably 24" would be ideal.