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On both my road and mtb I've tuned the gears with new chains, cables cassettes and derailleurs.
They shift really well and precise but sound like a bag of spanners when riding in any gear.
Some tuning finesse needed or do I just need louder sounding tyres to hide it?
Odd. What sort of noise?
Chain too long?
Hmmmmm my first thought would be check chain routing through rear deraileur. It can run over or under the flat separating the inner and outer plates. If routed incorrectly it rubs and makes a noise....but still shifts fine.
Like this
Ok. So it's not that bad but it's still not nice and quiet like the bike was new. Even though all the parts are new.
Chain length is interesting although I followed the shimano guide. B screw?
Did you change chain rings? New chain, new cassette, new deraileur..... If these are all fresh and chain rings are worn they will sound plop.
Also how about lubing up the chain? Chains come with some really sticky grease on them which is more to protect the metal surface. They do need to be lubed and run to free up a bit.
Also check the quick link / joining pin if shimano. The quick links need a really good tug to fully seat the pins in the slots.
So iyts quiet on the stand and noisey under load?
Never found factory chain lube to be noisey.
Start from the beginning.
If you have a quick link in the chain, remove the chain. Then put both front and rear mechs in the smallest sprocket positions and release the cables, no need to remove the cables from the bike.
If you have a hanger alignment tool then check the hanger for alignment. Lots of people go "it's a new hanger, it's not bent!" Most shifting problems are due to a bent hanger.
Then set the hi and lo stops on both the mechs without a chain. Set the B screw, the top jockey wheel should be approx 10mm from largest sprocket on the cassette when you push it across by hand. Refit chain, refit the cables ensuring the shifters are in the smallest sprockets and the barrel adjusters are would all the way in, then back out 1 full turn. Double check the cable clamp is in the groove.
Adjust the cable tension so 1 click takes the rear mech up one sprocket on the cassette, then back down without any hanging up. Once it's correct on one click you shouldn't have to adjust it to make it go across all of the cassette. If you do then the hangers bent.
The front mech can be troublesome when in extremes of the cassette, big-big, small-small, and can rub. The odd bend with mole grips or position can help. I struggle to get the front to work well on my crosser. I can't find a front mech that works with 46-36 and MTB shifters.
Had it once Al on a Clarks chain.... The grease / wax was so thick it caused the links to stick. After about 5/10 mins with a bit of rock n roll extreme it was fine.
Generally the factory Lube is better than anything you can stick on though. Never had an issue with kmc / sram chains though.
I think Clarks are made by ybn though which explains a lot (not good)
Shimano chain? If so, is it on the right way round?
Chainrings worn if not replaced?
B screw set wrong on rear mech?
Potentially the b screw.. Although it's seems to have no affect on the 105. The text is facing out on the chain so it's on the correct way. Sounds like rubbing caused by poor gear selection when you are in the gears that you shouldn't be in.
Maybe my mtb lube is to thin for the road bike!
Dan would help if you answered the questions:
Have you replaced chain rings along with the other stuff?
Have you checked the routing of the chain through rear deraileur
It's a process of elimination. Also follow big blacks suggestions again. Even though you think you have done it already.
had a similar thing with my ultegra di2 detup on the roady, did my head in. tried everything, changed derailleur and all sorts. It was chain length.
Some new gear combinations make a rumbling noise when new as the teeth pass the chain. It'll go away after a while
Big black shed.. Seems to be better on the turbo. I adjusted the lower limit whilst turning the wheel. It was like tuning the noise to quiet.
I could see it was snagging on the pulley wheels as the alignment was out. Still not convinced the b screw is correct.