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Hi,
I just got hold of a used Boardman Fs Pro and the chain line is way out. It lines up with the 7th sprocket from the low (first) gear. Only ever used Shimano cranksets, I'm assuming all I need is some spacers.
I've found this exploded view, file:///C:/Users/Andrew/Downloads/ck-_service_parts_for_my18_mtb_modular_megaexo_cranksets_-20170124.pdf It shows the spacers for either side of the bearing cups (indecently, mine only seems to have one on the drive side. Is that normal?)part number 3 and a spacer between the drive arm and spider, number 11.
My thoughts are to install spacer number 11 between the crank arm and the direct mount chainring. Anyone with any experience of this?
Additionally, I'd like to swap the chainring for an oval chainring, if I can. Noticed that superstar do one with the cinch fitting for just shy of £30, are these as good as the AB rings?
Thanks.
PS, where have the smileys gone?
I think 2017 would have been the earliest that FSA used the modular system that you link to.
Spacers are bb specific and if threaded then it depends on 68/73 as to the number/ location. Push fit fsa bbs dont run shell spacers.
Crank spindle spacers I use to locate to center the cranks to the bikes centerline.
I swap the chainline spacer on my cranks to suit the specific build but you do need a special tool to remove the lockring. Part E0611
The interface also is not cinch, its differnt to RFs. Its FSA proprietary. They offer 28t up, all round.
As far as what you can donwithout special tools today, 8mm to self extract the drive side, pull the axle and pop the spindle spacer and spring washer on the non DS.
Measure inner crank at back of pedal to wheel rim on both sides to make sure its not well off center and check you dont have any bb fouling of the chain ring lock ring on the bb shell.
Thanks for your reply BearBack. I'll take a look tomorrow evening.
Where do you get the chainline spacers from? My searches come back with items only from the US.
Thanks again.
The chainline spacer part 11 is already on your cranks. Assuming you are in boost mode right now and removing lockring #9 you will remove #11 then the chain ring. Just reassemble in reverse order to assemble in non-boost which will bring your chainline 3mm closer to the wheel (50mm CL rather than 53mm CL).
disclaimer, I haven't see the comet chainset so I'm assuming it is the same as SL-K, K-force, Afterburner and Gradient in that its cross compatible with boost.
I don't suppose you know where I can the tool from?
Thanks
Got that setup on my boardman. A good quality punch will do the job in lieu of the proper tool.
Not had issues with chain line either though to be honest, with the GX it's the best transmission I've had on a bike, having always been die hard XT.
Measure inner crank at back of pedal to wheel rim on both sides to make sure its not well off center
Checked this last night and the drive side crank arm is about 3mm further away from the wheel rim. So looks like I can remove the spacer in the drive side and put it in the non-drive side to centre the chain line on the 6th gear.
I though that I'd put in a new bottom bracket while I was at it. Having seen the price for a new bottom bracket, I think I'll just re-grease it. I can buy 3 XT HTII bottom brackets for that price.
@BearBack, thanks for your help.