I gather I have a freehub problem: when my wheel 'free wheels' it causes the cranks to turn too. Yesterday this wasn't a problem when using this same wheel on my other bike. However, I've inserted this wheel onto a new frame and the problem has now arisen. In order to fit into the new frame I had to change the end cups from QR to 12mm end cups (it's a Hope hub). Furthermore, the thru axle was too long as I gather my wheel has a 135mm axle and the frame is sized to accommodate a 142mm and 148 Boost axles/wheels. To accommodate this I had to add spacers to the axle on either side. I say all this just in case any of these details are relevant. Hoping you can help.
Sounds a bit of a bodge. Just so I’m understanding correctly, did the wheel come off a frame with 135mm spacing and a quick release, and is the new frame 142 or 148mm (boost) spacing?
Hope do proper conversion kits for their hubs to change spacing and axle types and you need to use those to make the system work.
As mentioned above - probably best to get the right kit rather than bodging it if you are unsure. You can look it up here.
Also, did you take the freehub off at any point? There's a small spacer / washer that sits between the freehub and the hub which can cause things to bind if it is missing.
Great. That all makes sense. The only thing I am not sure of it whether the frame dropouts are designed for 142 or 148mm (boost) spacing. I've just measure the distance with callipers and it measured 145mm. Does that suggest one over the other?
What's the new frame?
Stanton Sherpa 21". When bought new it comes with Swapouts for 142 and 148, but I don't know which ones I have. I've asked the seller and am waiting for a reply, though I'm trying to get the bike going ASAP so was hoping I wouldn't have to wait for him to reply.
Ah, I see. If you're having to bodge space it out, I'd guess at you having the 142 ones and that the Hope hub isn't boost.
Isn't 142 the road standard and 148 MTB?
