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I've read all the walk throughs etc. like [url= http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/Forks/F-Series/F100RLC_F80RLC.htm ]here[/url] but I just have one (hopefully) simple question...
If I am replacing seals and fluids, do I need to take the topcaps off?
- I don't like the idea of potentially rounding them off if I don't need to and don't have the facilities to grind down a socket so it fits properly. It is not clear in the walkthrough whether I can pour both sets of fluids in through the bottom of the lower legs or whether one [i]has[/i] to go in the top. I have PUSHed F100 RLC BTW.
Hi,
i think you have to take the top cap off. i'm sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong
You can get away with a good fitting adjustable spanner on the topcap
make sure you press down on the spanner so it doesn't slip off.
Mind have never been tight
Hope this helps
Mark
You'll have to take the top cap off on the damping side to replace the fluid.
A small amount of fluid goes into the bottom of each leg to lubricate the stanchion bushings.
After a ride turn the bike upside down so that this fluid can run down and coat the bushings.
I just used a hand file, no need for a grining wheel, make sure you
keep it flat and clean up the sharp edges when done, tip: put the file
flat on the edge of the bench/table and rub the socket over it to help keep it all square,
I would strip down the fork and do a full inspection cleanup if you are going as far as changing the seals... 
I don't think you have to touch the top of the fork to replace/service the seals.
http://m.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-service-the-seals-on-your-fox-32-fork-25020/
I might be wrong.
Hmmmm - thank you all so far
I am going for a full oil change as well sonofapitch, so I think I might be popping to Halfrauds for a 26mm socket tomorrow...
Standard 26mm socket is no good.
You need a 6 point which has been modified to stop damaging the top caps.
I can provide a new modified 26mm 6 point socket for £15 posted.
I can provide a new modified 26mm 6 point socket for £15 posted.
Cheeky git, get one from Loco Tuning for £6.99
😯
Quality Britool sockets are used.
Mojo charge £15 + postage!
If you are going to use a socket bren2709 is absolutely right. Using a 12 point socket or any socket that has not had the end modified will wreck the soft aluminium top cap
I have done it with an adjustable spanner but after doing it that way a couple of times i decided a socket would be better. I got one from a secondhand shop and got my mate to trim the chamfered end on his lathe. Its just as important to press down on the socket to stop it slipping off the flats of the top cap.
good luck
SBrock - MemberI can provide a new modified 26mm 6 point socket for £15 posted.
Cheeky git, get one from Loco Tuning for £6.99
😆 😉
Edit: the 'cheap' Silverline sockets have lasted fine for me for the last 18months of daily use so don't think you need Britool 'quality' ones
When it comes to tools and makes, some people are fussy 😉
But I know what you mean!
Stupid eyes... I read the thread title as "Foal sex change" 😆
Dave
just use a flat spanner
Foal sex change
Says a lot about a person 😯 😆
I'm as cruzheckler. Never had any problems and mine have never been seized to date.
bren2709 yes I know what you mean I only have one Britool allen key left everything else has worn out or broken from them, so everything else is Snap On or similar.
Cruz I wouldn't recommend a flat spanner pretty easy to slip and damage your top cap/crown steerer unit.
The ultimate is a set of Knipex adjustable wrench thingys as used by the technicians use in WSB, but they're £100 plus at set ( although you can get them a little cheaper on Amazon) they are amazing, I use mine of especially tight top caps and sealheads.
Agree with Loco re Britool, not what they used to be. I have some 40yr old ones in the garage I have had since starting work and the newer stuff is no-where near the quality, never buy it nowadays. Got some Kamas stuff from. The same era and think they joined up with Snap-On yrs ago.
Got some odd Halfords Pro stuff which seems good and the likes of Auto Exprees regularly give it high ratings. Like the 1/4 drive socket set for working on the bike.
I need to get this done for a ride on Sat - Halfrauds were no good, so off to check a local tool merchants on the way back from work tomorrow - think I might take a file to a six point 26mm if I can find one.
(I don't think I will get one in time, the post from you bren but might be in touch if all else fails...)
Wish me luck! I'll let you all know how I get on...
I changed my seals today on my 150mm RL's for the new sks ones and while I was there I thought i would change the oil in the lowers.
So all going well drained the oil, cleaned up, fox fluid the new rings,refit lowers top up oil to recommended 165ml damper side 30ml spring side
🙂
Could not stop the Damper rod from spinning when doing up the nut on the bottom of the leg. grrrrrrrrr
So take the legs off again so that I can grip the Damper rod and thread the nut.
To my horror when I removed the leg for the second time oil went everywhere grrrrrrrr again.
I was draining the oil for 10 minutes first time, so my question is 165ml not correct?
and what happens if you have to much oil in the legs?
some advice would be great thanks
150mm rl with open bath damper yes 165ml in damper leg is correct.
If you have too much oil in you may not get full travel or will blow the seals out the lower legs.
Make sure you drain the damper cart properly.
loco so how do I make sure the damper is drained?
2.5mm allen key, insert the short end into the holes in the bottom of the cart to lift the shim on the inside of the holes and pump the damper expelling the oil.
Done! Forks feel amazing! Well worth it. Oh, and for all the Fox haters, my stanchions were absolutely mint - only second service they have had in 6 years with [b]lots[/b] of riding 8)