[Closed] Fox 36 owners, a question?

No, I've not experienced this. The spacers on my hub are a fairly close fit in the forks prior to putting the axle through. Once the axle's in and hand tight there's no side to side movement in the wheel.

Clearly there's something not right. Are all the spacers in your hub correctly ? How much of a gap is there between the spacers and the drop outs prior to tightening the axle ?

D.

The spacers on the hub of my wheel slit in leaving only a fraction of a mm of a gap which allows it to slide in and out.

Do you have the correct spindle?

That's correct. Look at the fox 36 YouTube video for how to install the axle. Once it's all tight, then the wheel will be perfectly snug with the lowers in perfect stress relief from tightening.

It's the correct axle as it came with the forks. They're a 2013 model and recently been serviced and are in excellent condition. I've only just noticed this though, after last weeks ride.

There appears to be about a 1mm gap between the fork/adaptor, when I fit the wheel it isn't snug, it simply slots in.

It's intermittent though, one minute I feel a knocking then it's gone?

I'm going to replace my wheel bearings in case they're warn. It's a Hope Pro II Evo running original bearings so this may be causing the problem?

Have you inspected the adapters for any bends/cracks or damage.

May be worth checking the clamps etc on the fork lowers too. Make sure everything looks as it should. Make sure there's no cracks.

Maybe a crushed bearing?

Everything seems to be in order as far as I can see, but I will double check all parts.

Bearings do seem ok but they're original since 2014 so they're worth replacing to see if it helps.

1 mm gap is more than I've got but doesn't sound excessive. Is this with the spindle fully hand tight or prior to tightening ?

Have you checked the other stuff that could be loose ? Headset etc ?

1mm could be more, it's hard to be accurate.

When the axle is tight I can actually push the fork leg inwards towards the hub adaptor, and I reckon I get about 2-3mm of movement. Even with the QRs tight I can still push the fork leg inwards towards the hub adaptor.

Headset, rotor, caliper and brake adaptor are tight.

My initial thought was the hub bearings so they're getting replaced this week, see if that helps.

Checked the threads on the axle. Fork lowers are not stiff without the axle in. You can easily flex them a lot just with a hand. So sound's like the axle is tightening onto something before it has a chance to get fully tight with the hub.

I'd guess something bent or cracked.

Is there any grit or grime compacted into the dropout on the threaded side?

This is the weird thing, the axle goes tight at the threaded end but doesn't marry up to the dropout on the opposite side, I can then move the non threaded side in towards the hub spacer and out towards the axle. The axle doesn't make contact with the drop out on the non threaded side which im sure it should?

You've not cross threaded the axle?

Axle isn't cross threaded, it goes in/out perfectly.

I've just fitted new wheel bearings to see if that would help, but no. Nothing seems damaged or cracked, but I have noticed the QR doesn't clamp the axle which I assume it should? Is it possible for the axle to wear?

Only other thing I can think of is the lowers have been damaged using a fork mounted carrier?

The quick release clamps are purely pinch bolts nothing else.

Remove the wheel and screw in the axle. And see what is going on.

Sounds like could of cross threaded.

i suspect the axle is worn. When you look at a new 36 axle the area where the drop out clamps is black, mine is silver, shiny and seems vey warn compared to friends who run 36's. They've also confirmed that their QR clamp the axle when done up, mine doesn't.

As an experiment I put a piece of electrical tape on the axle (see picture) and refitted the axle, the QR then seemed to clamp the axle, further backing up my theory that the axle is worn.

I also transport my bike with a fork mounted carrier so each time I drive somewhere I'm removing and fitting the axle 4 times, further speeding up wear, and recently I've noticed the axle coming slightly loose in transport which I suspect is due to a worn axle.

What do people think?

[IMG] [/IMG]

This is my friends axle, still seems worn but no where near as bad as mine:

[IMG] [/IMG]

The dropouts on the fork are pinched shut by the QR levers in the lowers. These are adjustable via an allen key. I cant see how the axle could be so worn that you can't get the axle tight in the lowers. With the wheel out put the axle through the lowers, nip up by hand then adjust the QR up on the threaded side until this grips the axle to the point where it won't turn. Back the thread side QR off and repeat the process on the opposite side. The QR's unlike those on your wheels or seatpost don't need to be mega tight; just tight enough to grip the axle. Once you've done this put the wheel back in and snug everything up. If you still have play there's a problem somewhere in the hub. What though I can't hazard a guess at. The spacers and bearing inner races are all of fixed dimensions. Bearing wear isn't going to affect this. Have you had the hub apart at any point ? Other than that can you by a process of elimination using a mates axle/wheel or using you axle and wheel on another set of lowers identify where the problem lies ?

D.

Hub has never been apart, until earlier tonight when I replaced the bearings to eliminate bearing failure as the cause.

Unless I fit the axle with the tape (as pictured) the QR simply doesn't grip the axle on the non threads side, but I haven't properly looked at the threaded side, but this is another thing for me to check. I'll also fit the axle without the wheel to see how it clamps. I'll also try and check my friends wheel/axle.

I'm just hoping that somehow my lowers aren't damaged.

I've had the forks from new since September 2013 and not experienced this before, so can't see how it could be dodgy setup, something has to be worn, but finding what is proving more difficult than I thought!

Thanks for everyone's help and advice, I realise this is a tedious thread but I do appreciate all the help.

When the axle is tight I can actually push the fork leg inwards towards the hub adaptor, and I reckon I get about 2-3mm of movement. Even with the QRs tight I can still push the fork leg inwards towards the hub adaptor.

Mine do it, 2008 36s as does a friends (brand new at the time)2013s, was convinced there was a fault until I compared them to the 2013s, I'm satisfied it's perfectly normal, axle tightens hub onto left hand lower, right hand lower floats in free space until QRs are tightened.

axle tightens hub onto left hand lower, right hand lower floats in free space until QRs are tightened.

I assume you mean:

Left hand lower = disc side / threaded side
Right hand = non disc side / non threaded side

If this is the case my 'free space' does not go when the QR is tightened, the lowers will still move on the axle.

I'm positive the axle is worn as applying tape to take up the excess 'space' enable the QR to clamp the axle. I'm tempted to buy a new axle but at £43 if it doesn't solve the problem I'm out of pocket and still have a problem, but I am convinced this will help.

Have you tightened up the qrs before flipping the levers up? I know you say that the qr doesn't clamp the axle, but I can't see where you say you've adjusted them with an Allen key

@legend

I have tweaked the allen key bolts to ensure the QRs are tight, but I understand these should not be over tightened. However, I have them slightly tighter then normal to see if they help grip the axle.

I have been in touch with TCH Cycle Works and sent them a picture of my axle and his initial reaction was that it was worn.

If I'm not mistaken repeatedly removing and refitting the axle must cause wear, bearing in mind these are 2013 forks, and each time I take the bike out in the car I'm removing and re-fitting the axle 8 times (fork mounted carrier).

f this is the case my 'free space' does not go when the QR is tightened, the lowers will still move on the axle

Aye sounds like a different issue, my QRs tighten down onto the axle, although there is still a gap between non driveside leg and hub which I believe is normal.

You've not overtightened the QR bolts and cracked the lowers around clamping zone have you, a common occurence I believe?

Can you unscrew the axle with both QRs done up?

Do you have any accurate way of measuring the major diameters of your axle ? If so I'll go and pull mine out and we can compare.

Oh.. and have you tried your mates axle?

Aye sounds like a different issue, my QRs tighten down onto the axle, although there is still a gap between non driveside leg and hub which I believe is normal.

You've not overtightened the QR bolts and cracked the lowers around clamping zone have you, a common occurence I believe?

Can you unscrew the axle with both QRs done up?

Nothing is cracked as far as I can see. I'm really OCD with my bike to the point where I know every little detail!!

I've not tried actually unscrewing the axle with both QRs done up, but I do know that after applying a bit of tape things tighten up.

Not managed to try a mates axle but I've ordered a new one as I'm positive (hopefully) it'll solve my problem.

@Davesport - not really got anyway of measuring things tbh, but I'm hopeful the new axle will work.

I shall report back in due course!

Thanks all.

What I would say is that if your axle is worn its probably not the only part. There has to be a mechanism that caused the wear in the first place IYSWIM. My axle is 5 years old and although it probably doesn't get as much use as yours the anodising is still intact.

Hopefully the new part will sort your problem 8)

Sorry if I've missed something, I'm reading this on the mobile, but have you tried your axle in your friends fork & vice versa?

So,

My hopes were dashed as the new axle doesn't work either, I still have the same movement 🙁

Not ideal but I put a bit of nail polish on the inside of the fork leg to create a tacky clamping area between the axle and dropout, and after riding on Sunday it appears to have done the trick, although I'm aware this will probably be a temporary fix.

There was no movement at all, only downside is the axle is quite tight to fit / remove, but I don't see this as a problem as I'll only remove the wheel if I really have too, and as long as there's no movement I'm happy.

Hi OP. Are you totally, totally sure there is nothing fouling the thread or clamping areas? Either stopping the full threading in of the axle or stopping the clamp closing fully despite closing the lever.

@jamj

The axle scews in all the way, and as far as I can see nothing is stopping the clamp from fully closing.

I'm out on Saturday so when I get the bike ready Friday night I might strip the clamp assembley just to make sure there is nothing I've missed.

Might be an idea to put your wheel in your mates fork and see if it clamps up