[Closed] Fox 34 forks- can you identify these? (OEM on Orange Five) or are they 32's?

I thought all fox had the if number on the back of the lowers just below the seal? Don't see it, if he has that number key it into fox website to full info

I don't think the 32 have that top lip design on the brace

Ask seller 5 model and year and get googling for spec?

None of the Fives come with a 150mm fork - all 32/140 I think apart from the AM which is 34/160.

Feel like I may be stating the obvious here but why don't you just measure the stanchions?????

Feel like I may be stating the obvious here but why don't you just measure the stanchions?????

Because they are a 40min drive away from him?

Beaten to it.

Feel like I may be stating the obvious here but why don't you just measure the stanchions?????

See my OP- its a drive based on the sellers word. If I got there and he made a mistake measuring a 2mm diff I wouldn't buy 32's.

Can you accurately measure the stanchion to 2mm difference?

All the Fox forks in the house say 32 or 34 in the circle above the Fox logo on the front/outside of the lowers.
This should help you if you can either zoom in for the code or ask them for the code/Serial.

also if they are 26" 34's then I think they all can be spaced to 140/150/160 internally

They look a lot like my 34's. That feature line on the front of the brace is identical. Mine are the Evolution model found on the Orange Five AM. Nowhere does it say 34.

Why not ask them to measure across the flats on the top nut where the CTD adaptor is? On 34's it should be 28 (not 26 as on 32's)

Call me silly but why would you be interested in a set of 2013 fox CTD forks, almost universally slagged for being rubbish?

BTW I'd guess their 34's going by the brace, surprisingly it doesn't say 34 in the circle above the Fox logo, as we'd expect. If the seller has a set of calipers, measuring would be easy.. you never know he might have.

Hes also selling a bike with 32's on- so visually it should be an easy-spot? Even if the other fork is kashima?

If the seller has a set of calipers, measuring would be easy.. you never know he might have.

Or he could be familiar enough with his own forks to describe the model correctly?

Why do you doubt his description, was it vague enough in other ways that you're not sure he knows what forks he owns?

They look like 34's to me FWIW.

If he doesn't have calipers to measure the diameter..
Assuming they are 34mm then the circumference would be 106.8mm. C = 2?r
Cut a straight piece of paper 106.8mm long, rap it around the stanchion..if the ends touch it's 34mm. If they overlap its 32mm.

The description was vague/very basic. The 'issue' is visually I can't see any forks that match these. I asked the question and received a question mark at the end of the line and the receipt can't be located to confirm. Just 'fairly sure'.

I want 34's. I'd buy 36's without a doubt and stretch to 34's but I don't fancy a wasted evening driving if they are 32's. I'm beyond doubt that the guy is kosher/I always go on a few factors/gut-feel but it can be a genuine mistake too which I'd want to avoid.

[img] [/img]

34 on the left, 32 (29er though) on the right, crown is deeper on the 34 and the dropout webbing also appears slightly beefier.

The ones in your pic look like 34s to me, even before comparing to google pics, but if he can't measure then the serial number should be able to confirm if he can find that for you.

Is that a 1.5" steerer or just a funny angle making it look fat??

EDIT: tapered, d'oh!

Also on the why if the price is right then an avalanche cart will transform them.

Non Kashima so presumably OEM? If so, I think the 34 was available in an OEM 150 travel version.

I'm beyond doubt that the guy is kosher/I always go on a few factors/gut-feel

and this has never let him down in the past :roll

The swage line running horizontally on the crown at the base of the steerer is a giveaway.

34's. No question.

Call me silly but why would you be interested in a set of 2013 fox CTD forks, almost universally slagged for being rubbish?

That's funny, mine are perfect; beyond criticism. But I just ride the thing; I don't try and review them.

That's nice for you SC, and I happily run some 2013 32's (came on the bike) that work 'fine' but that does not mean they were the best forks available for the money & hasn't stopped mojo trying desperately to claw back some "reputation" by the likes of a 3 page review/advert in a mag. Saying how the issues were now behind them for 2015 & how the earlier forks could be re-tuned.

mojo trying desperately to claw back some "reputation" by the likes of a 3 page review/advert in a mag

There you go then. Don't read mags and you'll be much happier.

The received wisdom is that Pikes are the best fork in the world. I didn't like them; they were clunky. The 32's I had on my bike were great, but I needed 160mm ideally for my new frame. Never looked back.

On a site run to advertise a magazine that seems a tad dis-loyal 😉

Whenever I see a bikeradar review I take it with a pinch of salt.

Apparently the 2013 were slightly more linear and the differences weren't as pronounced between the three settings. Well, for most people this isn't an issue, run slightly more psi. If its too linear then don't run the DH setting- run the slightly firmer trail or climb than the next click on. It aint rocket science but I think when some people read a negative 'magazine' review they think their product is faulty/junk.

The fork hardly fails/pisses oil/spikes like crazy/snaps/cracks now does it?

For the money I think its a good secondhand buy.

So a fork you can't run one of the three major settings is not faulty? Indeed I've never run the DH setting on mine (but I wouldn't have bought them if given a choice), but increasing the PSI so that is doesn't use all of the available travel is a fix? Yeah ace, and TBH I was going by the numerous thread on here complaining about them last year and used the "mojo" response as proof even they admitted they might not have been great.
I expect another thread from you soon 😆

as an owner of 2013 34's I'd say the following.
Stiffness - fine it's not a 36, it's as stiff as it should be and needs to be from my year of riding it. It's not got out of shape or squirmy like older forks I've tried.
Plushness - very plush
Compression damping - found it hard to get the balance just right between going through the travel and loosing small bump by adding more air. Some extra oil in the air chamber helped to make it more progressive and ramp up more at the end.

I was offered an upgrade to the 2014 damper via some mods to the 2013 one, but the local Oz Fox importer/dist has been overwhelmed with warranty work on shocks and I wasn't convinced of the turn around time on the fork.

I went with the Avalanche damper which has added exactly what was missing. It's been great even if it's added 200g to the fork. The chassis of the fork is exceptional and with the change it's exactly what I wanted. It's also still cheaper than a Pike and comes if white rather than "murdered out" which I prefer.

I'm looking for some 34 Kashima Floats for the missus bike to do the same on if I can get some at the right price. Despite the rep online not many people are actually shipping them on. Make of that what you want

I expect another thread from you soon

I only need them whilst my 55CR's are fixed. To be honest I run my 55's firmer and I don't really need 'small bump' oh and they are cheap. Win win really.

Down the line I can look at any mods. Better than buying 1yr old/forks that need a service/worn for more money IMO.

Stiffness - fine it's not a 36

No they are not like the 32's, 32 is a great short travel fork but lazy/stupid accountant driven bike companies seem to enjoy speccing them at 150mm for AM bikes where they fall way short (Giant/trek).

So a fork you can't run one of the three major settings is not faulty? Indeed I've never run the DH setting on mine

Which setting 'can you not use'? If it's D I run that most often.

I've never been able to get to the bottom of the idea that the damping is somehow not fit for purpose, yet changing the spring rate fixes it.

Is it damping, is it spring curve?

As I say they work for me. Maybe it's setup. Maybe the settings for my weight puts them right in the sweet spot. That doesn't mean they are great for everyone, but it also doesn't mean they are crap for everyone too.

I only need them whilst my 55CR's are fixed.

Seriously? Why not just wait a week or two...?

I've been quoted three weeks.

Three weeks of summer rider but hey I guess I can avoid the trails for three weeks in summer weather.........

I'm not even going to miss one weekend let alone possibly three!

I've never been able to get to the bottom of the idea that the damping is somehow not fit for purpose, yet changing the spring rate fixes it.

Is it damping, is it spring curve?

So visually with the lip in the crown boss and the more angulated lines on the lower tops they are more than likely 34's? I'll do the drive... If I hold them next to his 32 Fox's I'll spot the difference straight away in stanchion width..

He text me at lunchtime to say definitely 150mm length stanchions.

sorry managed to miss the link earlier
http://www.ridefox.com/help.php?m=bike&ref=topnav
get either the serial number or product code off the fork an enter it above. Definitive thread ending sort of conclusion

I missed that too/asked him- cheers.

I meant I found it and managed not to post the actual link...
It came out around the time of the recall notice so just check that when you have the numbers

Adding oil to the air chamber reduces the volume and therefore increases the bottom out resistance (sort of)

So it's the spring rate, then?

Adding oil to the spring leg makes it more progressive which compensates (to some degree) for the lack of compression damping by making it ramp up sooner and not wallow about in the middle so much, but at the expense of some travel and possibly bump absorbing capability.

The damper fix changes the damper to provide a bit more comrpession damping in the right place, and prop the fork up a bit and allow you to keep the spring rate as intended, although I have a feeling there may have been minor tweaks there too in later forks.

So it sa bit of both, but consensus seems to be that it's better fixed in the damper than the spring leg.

Whether you prefer the feel of the original setup, original damper with spring rate adjustment, or adjusted damper with original spring is entirely personal preference though.

I have a feeling a lot of people are slating these forks because of what they have read rather than actually 'feeling' a problem out on the trails, and I think very few have actually had a proper go at tuning their 'problems' out.

Really want to have a go on an Avalanche'd up set to see how they perform though 🙂

I had to opposite problem with some old first gen 36's in that the spring rate ramped up too quickly and wouldn't use the last 30mm of travel and got a bit too firm too soon on bigger hits, I cut down the air push rod and reposition the piston cap to give a tiny bit more volume in the spring to make it a bit more linear and then added some more compression to compensate in the damper, totally transformed them tbh, still ramps up nicely at the end but get a lot more useful travel and not too wallowy with the extra compression adjustment.

to save you all this hassle, why not just buy my 36 talas, deffo 36 tapered etc and cheap lol

500 isnt cheap.

200 is cheap

£500?

mine are £210 🙂

Worn stanchions? On Fox @300 repai plus post?

Got them. Serial 399485-0076.

2013 Performance Series 34 FLOAT FIT 26 150 CTD

The recall page doesnt recognisethe serial number but then it says recall on Evolution series.

Whats the diff between performance and evolution?!

www.ridefox.com/fpe.php?m=bike

Ah mines better than evolution. Schweet for £210 collected 🙂

Evo dampers are the really basic ones, and performance are 'proper' fit with the bladder, but not kashima.

Check the stantions, get the lowers off if possible 😉

Perfect- thanks for all your help chaps. Mucho appreciated.

Loco they are <5miles on them. It shows. Seller upgraded to kashima. I saw this/the bike.

Bargin, enjoy!

Post to Oz when your bored of them?

That wont take long!

to post them or get bored?