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Recently (2 weeks ago) ordered a new Giant Anthem 2016.
Delivered via Mail Order, and on getting it ready, I noticed that the cable outer for the remote lock-out was frayed at the fork end. It was so frayed that the inner had started to rip through the outer.
I contacted the shop saying I thought it was missing a ferrule or noodle, and could they send me some bits to replace.
They were helpful, and sent me a new cable and outer, but couldn't send a ferrule as the lockout was designed like this, and mine must have stretched in transit, hence the fraying. They also sent me a couple of pictures of other Fox Float bikes showing the guide without a ferrule.
I replaced the cable and managed to move the cable guide a little more outboard to reduce the angle that the cable enters. Whilst doing this I noticed that the shop must be right as the cable guide on the fork is way too narrow to allow a ferrule or noodle to fit inside.
Anyway, at the time the job I did looked very neat, and much tidier than when it arrived.
However, less than a week later, it's starting to fray again, although the lockout action works fine (lock and release).
Has anyone else got this problem, and have they found a solution to resolve? It looks like a design 'feature' of the lockout on the fork.
As everything is working, will it continue to operate with the 'kink' and am I just worrying about the aesthetics?
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and have they found a solution to resolve?
Aye, whip the whole lot off and throw it, a pointless hassle.
Probably caused by too tight a bend as it leaves the lockout, the techies at Mojo told me they're supposed to run across and behind the fork crown.
Has anyone else got this problem, and have they found a solution to resolve?
Yes and No .... though coatsey makes sense....I still feel it should have a ferrule....
I haven't seen a cable routed round the back of the crown for a few years now.
Every factory fork I've opened had the cable set to run forwards of the crown.
My suggestion would be to loosen the compression bolt a couple of turns, lift and rotate the black cable housing so it points to teh front.
You may need to remove the compression knobs completely and reset the position of the blue compression dials so that the grub screw location works in conjunction with your new housing position.
Its very simple and you can't get it terminally wrong.
Remember to set the spring preload so that it returns the blue compression knob to fully open when the level is not engaged.
Reassemble and snip the frayed end off the outer (or replace) and new inner and crimp end. No ferruel needed if you're not stressing the cable where it enters the guide (plus it wont fit anyway)
Thanks all.
I'll shift the cable to run forwards and see if that eases sufficient pressure on the junction.
Failing that, I'll do as Nobeerinthefridge says, and remove the lot.
Probably caused by too tight a bend as it leaves the lockout, the techies at Mojo told me they're supposed to run across and behind the fork crown
This