I've tried a lot of things and tolerated this fork for a long time, and never got it to where I feel it should be. It's a 2021 Pike Ultimate B4 140mm, lowers last done 30 hours ago. I just can't get it comfortable for small bumps at speed on bridleways and tracks, yet it's perfectly fine on the sort of rough you get on red/black trails, and ok (but not great) on rougher rockier natural stuff.
60psi and two tokens in it at the moment, compression damping fully open, rebound 7 from full slow. For an XCish rocky tracks ride (think Yorkshire Dales) I'll sometimes drop to 55psi which makes it a little bit better at the expense of diving under braking. I've done many days focused on setting it up, on different trails, both by feeling and by ShockWiz. I've tried higher pressures up in steps of 5psi in case it was running too low in its travel and out of the optimal place for small bump sensitivity (mentioned in this thread), but it only got worse. Also tried more and less rebound damping in case it was packing down, no improvement either.
It's had a DHR2 EXO and Der Baron Projekt on, all 2.4", feels the same with both. It's a 29er. Pressure I've settled on with an original Rimpact is 20psi for my 75kg, it was 23psi before fitting that.
On the rocky track pictured below, going maybe 20mph, I actually had to stop because my vision was becoming blurred by the vibration reaching my eyeballs. Weird feeling, never experienced that before. For contrast, a rougher track like this is fine, like it's rough enough to get the fork moving whereas the below one isn't.
They're about due their first full service, so I'm wondering if I get a custom tune done while at it for £50 extra. Not sure what they'd change as part of that though, as they just ask for type of riding and weight. The alternative is not to do that and put the money towards a better fork when a decent deal crops up. Which could be a fancy air one, or a coil if need be. Perhaps I can convince myself it's an investment in not getting arthritis.
So this Pike, is this as good as it gets, or anything else to try before moving on?
Before a tune I'd look at getting the bushings resized
Did that on my old bike and the difference was amazing, coupled with a service its cheaper than new forks...
IMO they're just not that great, or rather, they're not my idea of great. Probably Rockshox have done a really good job of delivering the fork they think is best for the market, it's just that it's not what I want. But then all my forks are coil now which is probably indicative. (I weigh 10 stone, ymmv)
They definitely have too much compression damping for me, even fully rolled off still feels fairly choked and it seems like you might be in the same place. A custom tune could well help with that. I always felt like the damper and air spring were basically fighting each other, I'd adjust one side and maybe get a positive effect but then end up having to adjust the other side to match and ending up with negative effects there, I never really had a feeling of the two working in harmony.
As a diy meddler it is imo definitely worth just fannying about with spacers- don't just go by the logic, experiment with more, less, none, and see what that does for you- again this goes back to the "two sides fighting" thing, you might find that the perfect spring setting isn't actually what gives you the best overall fork feel, because of the interaction with the damper. I can't remember what I ended up with but it was something fairly illogical and a bit against recommendations.
It's also possible that they could do with the bushings resizing, which also makes a fork less responsive. I'd not be surprised if they can be made better, the question is just if you'll be happy with them and that I don't think anyone can tell you.
Some say the B1 air spring gave more sensitivity than the C1 that I assume is in your fork. But looking at that picture the problem you have sounds more significant than a small air spring tweak.
Those 2021 Pikes are a great fork and certainly will provide you with a decent ride once they're running sweet. I'd suggest getting a professional inspection/opinion from someone like myself or another service centre.
The many and varied reasons why it's not feeling right (for you) and no one can really pinpoint the problem on here without actually having the fork in hand.
I never charge to inspect or diagnose so feel free to contact me at the workshop on Monday.
Race Ready Suspension 01539 720609 (Robin)
I could never get my 29er Pike feeling right. Exactly as you describe, just too harsh on the small stuff. Replaced with a Fox 36
I managed to break mine before I could try other measures, but I had a similar experience with the same fork.
I considered replacing it with a Lyrik, DVO Diamond or Formula Selva, but ended with a Mezzer because the price on CRC last year was too good to pass up. I found it simultaneously better for small bump and more supportive than the Pike.
Sorry I can’t be more help!
The Pike is a great fork but from experience they never feel great from the factory, and small bump compliance is one of the areas this is obvious.
A full service from a good suspension workshop (can’t recommend Sprung enough), with fresh seals, the correct levels of oil and problem solved.
MartynS beat me to it. Have a closer look at the bushings.
Drop the lowers and remove the air spring and damper from the uppers. Remove the garter springs from the seals and the foam rings. Basically, you want just the lowers and the CSU but you can leave the seals in as removing them does damage them.
Insert one leg into the lowers and see if it drops under its own weight. Try the same on the other side. If it passes both of those tests, try both legs at once with your wheel in the drop outs. The CSU should drop into the lowers under their own weight. If they don't, then you have a problem with bushing shape, size or alignment.
Before a tune I’d look at getting the bushings resized
Interesting. I see a few servicing shops include this (if necessary) as part of either servicing or tuning.
Probably Rockshox have done a really good job of delivering the fork they think is best for the market, it’s just that it’s not what I want.
It's a great trail centre fork, based on my experience.
They definitely have too much compression damping for me, even fully rolled off still feels fairly choked and it seems like you might be in the same place. A custom tune could well help with that.
Yes, unlikely to be optimal given I'm on full open on the adjustment range.
As a diy meddler it is imo definitely worth just fannying about with spacers- don’t just go by the logic
Bike came with 2, after a while I went up to 3 so I could drop the pressure. Later I came back down to 2 and kept the same pressure. I probably just got better at landing jumps and drops level. So I know 3 will leave travel unused, 1 will have me bottoming out, more air is less comfortable, less air is too little support.
I’d not be surprised if they can be made better, the question is just if you’ll be happy with them and that I don’t think anyone can tell you.
Yes, I don't really have anything relevant to compare against. This is the only modern fork I've I've ridden extensively or as hard. Spent a day on a Fox 34 a couple of years back, didn't do any adjustments from how it was, all I remember is it was fine.
Some say the B1 air spring gave more sensitivity than the C1 that I assume is in your fork. But looking at that picture the problem you have sounds more significant than a small air spring tweak.
C1 came after my fork and I've also read that it's not as sensitive. My fork is a B4.
That particular track seemed to be the wrong type of rough for some reason. Decades hard packed stone. I've ridden things way rougher and it's been fine. Maybe combination of resonance and speed making it worse.
I could never get my 29er Pike feeling right. Exactly as you describe, just too harsh on the small stuff.
I managed to break mine before I could try other measures, but I had a similar experience with the same fork.
Did either of you try getting it full serviced, custom tuned, and/or bushings done? I've read of a few experiences like ours so if spending money on it is unlikely to be fruitful I'd rather not waste it.
Have a closer look at the bushings.
I'll try this unless I decide to send them straight for a service/tune.
Not all service centres will adjust the bushing, If you think it needs doing, check before you send them off.
Did either of you try getting it full serviced, custom tuned, and/or bushings done?<br /><br />
No, I just did a couple of 50hr services, which always helped a bit. I did talk to TF Tuned about a custom tune and maybe fitting a B1 air spring for the bigger -ve, but then I bent the CSU (a non-riding accident!).
I could ever get my Revelation feeling right either.
I went through every iteration of air spring which all sucked in different ways.
The best thing I did (other than replacing the RC damper) was get a custom air spring from Everflow. Much bigger negative volume meant I could drop the air pressure 10% without introducing excessive diving. This made it much more sensitive and less progressive overall so small bumps and big bumps were much more pleasant.
Ultimately, the best thing I did was but a Mezzer but I realise that's not a helpful comment.
More negative volume is the answer youre looking for I think.
The Everflow airshaft is called a Zerodue. He also does airblisron kits that you can fit to your own airshaft and if you want, will make you a custom length airshaft if you really want to have 145mm travel or whatever.
There's also the Luftkappe and the Sekus, both give you more negative volume but the Luftkappe achieves this at the expense of some positive volume. If you're happy with 2 volume spacers though, you might be ok as you can remove them to gain the volume that the Luftkappe steals. The Sekus doesn't affect the positive volume.
I struggled with my Fox 36 on a ‘22 Stumpjumper Evo until I got it serviced. It was night and day different.
Loads of Fox Forks built around that time were assembled really badly. I wonder if Rockshox were too?
Do pikes not have adjustable negative air chambers anymore? Increasing the negative air chamber pressure should increase small bump compliance considerably although I admit my last experience of one was ten years ago now!
Have you had any other forks on the bike? Some bikes just ride harsh because of the frame stiffness, wheels etc.
Not all service centres will adjust the bushing, If you think it needs doing, check before you send them off.
I was expecting to send to one that explicitly says they do. I guess it's worth doing the test anyway so I can draw their attention to it.
More negative volume is the answer youre looking for I think.
Yes amongst many other fancy features some rival forks offer. I don't have the appetite get custom bits installed in the fork.
Do pikes not have adjustable negative air chambers anymore?
No, none of the RockShox or Fox forks do. All the fancy features are on smaller brands.
on my older Pike a Luftkappe really made a huge difference and gave me by the balance between support & small bump
Luftkappe in a yari & lyrik didn't make such a difference
I have the same fork and I love it. I'm a touch heavier than you at 80kg. I run 84 psi and no tokens. HSC 7 clicks ccw, and LSC 3 clicks ccw. I'm no expert on suspension (I go to Sprung if I'm struggling) but I think your fork is way too soft and it's pretty much sagged against the ramp up caused by the reduced volume that the tokens give which means you're always pushing against a firmer part of the spring. I've never really felt the need for anything more than one token in a fork, largely due to experiencing the same issues you describe.
I’ve got a 2021 Pike Ultimate running at 140mm travel in a hardtail. I have run it on a a full suss bike for a few rides too (when my Lyrik was out of action). Always been pretty happy with it - the setup to the Lyrik was possibly a bit different but it did a decent job on full suss as well. <br /><br />
I’m about 76-78kgs ish - not sure of all my setting but run the rebound on the faster size, hsc is full open and lsc is 4 clicks from full open. Maybe there are 2 tokens in there. No issues with small bump or bottoming out.
Like people have said above I’d get your bushings checked to make sure there isn’t a fundamental issue with the fork. If that’s fine then I’d look at a custom tune I think - or you could look at a smashpot. Run a softish coil spring and it comes with hbo to avoid hard bottom outs.
Interesting comments from those who like it.
For reference, I’m about 82kg and ran it with (from memory) 7-9 clicks rebound, 3-4 LSC and 0-1 HSC. No tokens. 150mm travel.
I experimented with psi, starting with 83 ish as per Trailhead, but never found a happy place between dive and suppleness.
The lowers seemed to go on OK after a service but I didn’t do a drop test so can’t comment on bushings.
If I find a cheap CSU, I’ll rebuild them with maybe a custom tune/B1/Secus.
Edit: a Secus appeals because of my experience with the triple-chamber Mezzer Pro.
I have had the exact same problem with the Pikes Ultimates. I was sold the idea that what I needed was a new damper. The damping was only marginally improved but didn't fix the problem. Put in a TruTune and burnished the bushings again for a marginal change but didn't solve the issue. For me it was spiking and the 'touch down' feel from the texture of certain terrain. It moved incredibly easy off the top but for me it wasn't the how 'small bump sensitive' it was - it is how the air in fork the subsequently behaves. It seems RS forks of a certain age are designed to ride in a particular way and there is nothing you can do about it. Either try a different brand of fork or forget air forks? Also found running alloy wheels and a more damped carcass tyres help too.
No, none of the RockShox or Fox forks do. All the fancy features are on smaller brands.
That's a shame, I'd say it was the most useful feature on a suspension fork that I'd ever had, could really dial it in for small bump sensitivity and removing initial stiction.
I wonder why brands dropped it.
Another +1 for the Luftkappe - made a noticeable difference to my Pikes.
+1 for another person running these Pike Ultimates (albeit at 130mm) very happily. I do get the impression Rockshox (and probably other brands) don’t all leave the factory quite the same though.
FWIW mine are on my hardtail, I’m 14 stone in riding clobber, running 97psi, 8 rebound, 0-1 HSC, 1-2 LSC and 1 or 2 tokens. Oh and they’re 42mm offset… just a little thing, but I found offset and general cockpit setup does interplay with fork settings bit. Obviously not to the degree of problems described in the original post.
If a lowers service with the proper oils doesn't sort it, it's likely to be bushings or misalignment somewhere
Unlikely to be damper unless it's broken.
I have the same fork and I love it. I’m a touch heavier than you at 80kg. I run 84 psi and no tokens. HSC 7 clicks ccw, and LSC 3 clicks ccw. I’m no expert on suspension (I go to Sprung if I’m struggling) but I think your fork is way too soft and it’s pretty much sagged against the ramp up caused by the reduced volume that the tokens give which means you’re always pushing against a firmer part of the spring. I’ve never really felt the need for anything more than one token in a fork, largely due to experiencing the same issues you describe.
I was aware of this possibility and recently did an experiment to investigate. For my 75kg, the trailhead recommended pressure is 83psi with the default one token, so I think 78psi by rule of thumb for two tokens.
60psi two runs to familiarise, on the above pictured track.
65psi - worse.
70psi - unchanged.
80psi - unchanged.
90psi - unchanged. Measured sag with bike on the slope and it's 30%.
100psi - worse.
So what I think I know is:
1. I can't run less pressure because there's not enough support for anything other than XC cruising.
2. I can't run more pressure because it makes it less sensitive.
3. If I remove a token I'll bottom out, unless I add more pressure thus causing issue 2.
I now no longer have the Pikes, basically gave up on them.
I have been running a Lyric which is stiffer and feels better as stock. Now has burnished bushings (my LBS burnishes as part of the service) TruTune and a TankV4 negative kit for shiggles as I was curious. No Tokens, no HSC, a little LSC for extra support on certain trails, set the sag and its pretty much as close to coil-like feel as any air fork I have tried. I would def look at different brands in future tho and save all the faff!
Onzadog
Free MemberMartynS beat me to it. Have a closer look at the bushings.
Drop the lowers and remove the air spring and damper from the uppers. Remove the garter springs from the seals and the foam rings. Basically, you want just the lowers and the CSU but you can leave the seals in as removing them does damage them.
Insert one leg into the lowers and see if it drops under its own weight. Try the same on the other side. If it passes both of those tests, try both legs at once with your wheel in the drop outs. The CSU should drop into the lowers under their own weight. If they don’t, then you have a problem with bushing shape, size or alignment.
Good post.
When I read the opening post, this is the first thing that came to my mind also. The talk of vibration blurring vision especially!
I seem to be more sensitive to this than most people, I long for the days you could get a headshok/lefty with roller bearings. You could have it set up really stiff and yet there would be no rattle through the bars.
Have you tried less rebound? I'm about the same weight as you and run mine at about 70psi, but I've got about half the rebound clicks.
I was expecting to send to one that explicitly says they do.
Sounds like a good plan.
Slick and Slide does FWIW, I asked him when he posted a video about the issue.
FWIW my 2021 Pike Select+ is great, with no such issues.
I seem to be more sensitive to this than most people, I long for the days you could get a headshok/lefty with roller bearings. You could have it set up really stiff and yet there would be no rattle through the bars.
Oh heck yes - mrs_OAB still bemoans not having a Headshok any more 🙁
I personally have never got on well with Rockshox dampers. They just feel like you are describing.
I prefer Fox dampers, back in the day Marzocchi and Manitou.
I got one of those pikes when they were being sold cheap a while back. Thankfully mines just on an ebike conversion which gets used on fireroad to access decent walking terrain. Thankfully, because it's pretty gash in a similar way to th OP.
A new fork with an rrp of £500+ shoulnd't need fettled out of the box, but it's very common it seems. Even a good air fork can't compare with coil for small bump sensitivity while still being good on bigger hits. My big bike has a Lyrik with a Vorsprung spring and it's truly superb. Hardtail has an MRP coil, also great.
Having similar issues here.
I've been running a 2016 Pike RCT3 650b since 2018, which once Luftkapped was pretty good. Sadly I killed the stanchions and you can't buy new CSUs for that generation anymore.
So I picked up a s/hand '21 Pike Ultimate that had just come back from having a new CSU fitted (so uncut steerer)
I've been playing round with it for a couple of months now and still am not happy.
They're great (as in way better than the old ones) on smooth bikepark berm&jump trails - supportive and you can work them well over the rollers, but they just don't move quickly enough over the rocks (which is what I actually like riding). There's no flow to them. You hit something _ _ _ Then the fork moves.
I'm 64kg + kit on top, 140mm travel on a hardtail. 47psi, 2 tokens (blow through the travel otherwise), zero compression damping, rebound as fast as I can cope with. I can use full travel easily enough (not had a proper klunky bottom out).
I would say from reading through many threads on the subject of rockshox forks that that most people run the damping wide open regardless of their weight. This to me would suggest that for those who are light weight maybe up to 85kgs may need the oil in the damper swapping for something lighter. That way the damper would allow for some adjustment to trail being ridden? Rockshox seems to offer a one solution fits all out of the box, which in reality doesn't work.
I had a similar issue with my 2017 27.5 Pikes, they were so horrible on things like braking bumps and the kind of surfaces shown above that I would get fatigued very quickly, I put it down to (at that time) that my bike wasn't really up to the trails I was riding in Morzine. I have since switched the damper oil for something lighter and did a lowers service at the same time. I couldn't really tell if it was an improvement, it's been fine on local trails. Anyway I'm in the throws of building up two completely different bikes, a hardtail for local stuff & a slightly longer travel FS in 29er wheel flavour. No doubt I'll be back to this thread looking similar solutions in the months to come.
PS - I came across this guy who modded a debonair air spring
I had similar experience with 2017 / 27.5" Pike Charger damper RL - OK on big bumps, but something like a cobbly land-rover track would shake your fillings out. I tried all manner of settings / tokens and also tried changing the shim stack to the light tune and going for lighter oil which actually helped quite a bit. What really sorted it out, however, was getting the air shaft changed to one from a Debonair fork with 2.5wt oil (on the advice of Phil at Indi Cycle Works).
So lots of varied experiences and mixed success in fixing it for various levels of investment.
I think I'll do the bushings check before deciding whether to service (possibly with custom tune at the same time for cost effectiveness) or replace. The former with tune racks up to £190 with carriages, it's a bargain compared to a new fork, but it's also a lot of money if it doesn't work out.
I had the same problem with a set of 140mm 2021 Ultimates, sent them to TF Tuned who put lighter oil in them and reduced the rebound damping. They also recommend I take out all the tokens (I'm 11 stone). Made a massive difference.
If you are getting 30% sag at 90psi, it’s got to be around 50% at the 60psi you’re trying to run and no amount of bushing resizing will make that better!
If you have the know how I’d start by doing a lower service including the air spring out to clean anything out the negative side that shouldn’t be in there, then reassemble with both tokens out making sure to inflate them correctly with a digital pump to get you around 20-25% sag and restart the setup process again
They also recommend I take out all the tokens (I’m 11 stone). Made a massive difference.
Interesting. What pressure did you use before and after?
If you are getting 30% sag at 90psi, it’s got to be around 50% at the 60psi you’re trying to run and no amount of bushing resizing will make that better!
This was on a slope, steeper bit than the photo. As opposed to level ground where sag is usually measured. But I think we both had the same concern that it's running in a ramped up zone of travel, when pointing downhill.
But if you measured the 60psi sag on the same slope it would be far too much. Most people think that reducing pressure will give a more supple ride, and it will to a point, but too far and you change the balance of the bike putting more weight through the hands which will make it feel rough so they then take out more pressure in a vicious circle. If you also don’t change the rear it just gets worse quicker.
Another thing to note when you were testing, did you increase rebound damping as you increased pressure as that much psi difference will need different rebound settings
They also recommend I take out all the tokens (I’m 11 stone)
I'm 11 1/2, I don't have any tokens in mine either. pressure at 70
I have a similar problem with my Z2s even after sizing the bushings. However, I have the rebound and compression open all the way, so I think I will change the damper oil from 5wt to 2.5, and wind the adjusters in a bit. Due to the design of the fork the low speed compression is unaffected by the shim stack so it's down to the oil viscosity. Turning the compression knob affects the speed at which the shim stack comes into play. Also being a budget fork it has less good wiper seals, but aftermarket ones are the lower friction type so that should help.
I'll definitely be trying removing the tokens then.
But if you measured the 60psi sag on the same slope it would be far too much.
Indeed, good point.
Another thing to note when you were testing, did you increase rebound damping as you increased pressure as that much psi difference will need different rebound settings
No. I figured that there wouldn't be ill-effects of comfort from rebound being too fast.
I had what sounds like the same issue on my Pike Ultimates (2021/2) at 150mm travel, weighing ~75kg with kit.
Unfortunately I can't help as for the price of servicing/upgrading/tuning them I ended up buying some very discounted Fox 36's which were instantly fantastic and sold the Pikes to a friend who's super happy with them (but 20+kg heavier).
They were stiff/chattery on rocky trails, great on berms, roots/drops and woodland trails but then never achieved full travel on bigger (for me) features. So although that suited my local riding, it really caused me issues on Alps/Wales trips etc which was right where I needed the confidence of the fork working for me.
A PSA in another thread reminded me of how I sorted my Pike issues- Wiggle has MRP Ribbon Coils for £360. Really a pretty basic fork, but done right- I was happier with the setup and performance after maybe 2 testrides of knobtwiddling than I ever got with the Pikes. YMMV of course.
My pike select+ felt great with no stiction. Annoyingly after a service with new rct3 damper and a 10mm shorter airshaft yesterday they how have stiction and a noise at the start of the travel 😞. I did the bushing drop test with both stanchions while apart and both slipped in individually even with the seal spring ring in place. Bit concerned about riding like they are so going to drop the lowers and redo the lubrication (making sure the bushings are pre-lubed).
Noise is coming from the air spring side (identifed by ear against the lowers). I think it's a squelch but very hard to tell. Debonair B1 air spring, wonder if the transfer port is blocked.
other option is a @trutune
they really do work!
im waiting for a fox 34 short version so I can do my Z2s
A new air spring will have more stiction than an old one.
A drop of oil in the -ve and +ve chambers helps.
It was new to me rather than new new. It's a B seal head so tempted to get a C1 upgrade kit (which also has a new quad ring seal). That would rule out old seals.
I put 1ml in the neg chamber (though I used TF lowers lube as buying maxima plush heavy for 1ml seems excessive!). Pretty sure I added the 3ml into the positive chamber as well.
I let all the air out earlier and with 0psi the fork moves smoothly. Think that would suggest it is lubricate OK. At around 50psi it also moves fine. There seemed to be a pressure drop when I undid the pump and cycled the fork to charge the neg chamber. At 90psi similar stiction still there, again had a slight pressure drop after cycling the fork which I think is the neg chamber equalising.
Another thing that I think caused stiction in mine, was servicing mine using some old thick Stendec grease.
I bought some Slick Honey, cleaned the stendec stuff out and regreased them and they've been a lot better.
Ta, I'm using RSP slick kick grease currently but getting towards the end of the tube. Could be worth sourcing slick honey to try next time.
RSP slick kick is decent enough - don’t ever find stiction with that. You mentioned a new rct3 damper at the same time - maybe it’s that? <br /><br />
As long as the air spring is in ok condition / is fitted without too much grease and a little bit of lower leg lube in the air spring per rockshox guidelines it should all be good.
Damper is brand new so I hope its not that! At the moment it is wide open, also the stiction goes when there is no air which suggests to me at least that the dampers in not the cause. I do wonder if I was a little too liberal with the grease :D.
There seemed to be a pressure drop when I undid the pump and cycled the fork to charge the neg chamber.
Are you allowing the negative chamber to equalise as you pressurise the fork? Pump it up a bit, squish it a few times. Pump it yo some more, squish it a few times etc. Keep doing that u til you got your target pressure.
If you just whack 90psi in and then remove the pump, you won't have equalised the negative chamber so the fork will feel firm until it's started to move. The would probably explain the squishing sound too, it's possibly small amounts of air moving into the negative chamber as you compress the fork
Watch this video till the end. He seems to have the same issue with his Pike
Have used a set of forks on that terrain that you thought were good?
What's the rear suspension setup like? Is something happening there that is pushing you forward onto your hands?
Running comfy grips?
From your picture, it looks like the kind of bump size your tyres should be dealing with.
Interesting video, others have said much the same in other threads that the older air-spring was much suppler and better small bump sensitivity but it suffered from sagging under the bikes weight. Someone had suggested using the older air-spring and accept that it will sag and offset it with a longer travel shaft.
Have used a set of forks on that terrain that you thought were good?
No. I've tried 3 other modern bikes and forks on red trails but only for short demos. On this particular terrain my only other experience is a cheap coil-sprung 26er not going anywhere nearly as fast.
What’s the rear suspension setup like? Is something happening there that is pushing you forward onto your hands?
It's a 140F/130R bike. Not sure what you have in mind, but I've learnt to ride with my head and weight over the front with modern long slack bikes.
Running comfy grips?
Pretty normal ones, DMR DeathGrips. On my rigid bike I found different grips help with discomfort associated with weight and same riding position for a long period, but not bumps and vibration. I think what I have here is more than grips would help with.
From your picture, it looks like the kind of bump size your tyres should be dealing with.
The thought did occur to me that I might be riding on the Rimpact insert, so not having much of the suspension effect of the air in the tyre. The tyres are 2.4" EXO. From thumbing it with air removed, it probably fits something like this:
OK, so you're after fork performance you're not even sure exists? Maybe you're after something unattainable?
I definitely experience more bump comfort with different grips, using/not using gloves.
With the rear suspension, I was thinking more along the lines of not enough sag and/or rebound too fast pushing your weight onto your hands.
You say you're riding weight forward, are you going too far with it?
Bars too low?
It can be easy to blame the forks, always worth scratching around and testing other reasons.
Fork rebound too slow?
Possibly, I can't know. It's not just the pictured surface. But I see many videos of people riding rougher stuff, doing multi-day uplift trips etc., they can't be putting up with this level of performance.
I'll check the rear too. I've pressurised it for the support and bottom out resistance I want, but perhaps I should try more sag but with some combination of volume spacers and compression damping. The rebound is in the middle of the range but I never notice the adjustment range doing much.
I don't think I'm too far forward, skills course I did the instructor was always saying I should be further forward.
Bars are right, done that experiment.
I've tried a bit with rebound but could do more.
Tried quite a few things today. Moors and trail centre ride, with a couple of repeat loops after making changes.
I've settled on 70psi (was 60), rebound -10 (was -7), 1 token (was 2). It's noticeably better on downhills and under braking. Previously while it wasn't sagged to the beginning of the progression, I think it soon got there due to combination of slope and braking weight transfer. I'll try them like this for a little while but they'll be going for a service soon as it's about due and I'm still not really satisfied. Thanks everyone for your input.
0 tokens, 85psi, -9 rebound. This pressure and rebound is recommended by Trailhead for a 75kg kitted rider, I nearly weigh that without kit. It's harsh even on the fire road, and bouncing on the bike it feels a lot harder than the rear. I'm happy with the rear in terms of landings, comfort, and dynamic ride height, so it's not up for adjustment today.
0 tokens, 80psi, -10 rebound. It's absorbing jumps better, but I can feel the bike tipping forward as it blows through the travel. Used all but 5mm travel on some moderate jumps and drops. Clearly a token is needed.
1 token, 80psi, -10 rebound. Repeated the previous. It's still absorbing big hits well, and the pitching issue is much reduced. 15mm unused travel, about ok for that section. Onto the next trail, general trail including some big (for me) jumps and drops. Can feel it landing tail heavy, 2cm unused fork travel but shock near bottomed out. Still to imbalanced.
1 token, 75psi, -10 rebound. Repeated the last trail. Still a bit tail heavy, and now 1cm unused fork travel and the shock still nearly bottomed. This trail has about the biggest landings I ever do, so I expect to use nearly all the travel here or sometimes bottom out once.
1 token, 70psi, -10 rebound. Repeated the last trail once again. Feels better, but I'm getting tired so it felt a slower run. It feels ok, less tail heavy again. The balance seems mostly remedied looking at the unused travel too, 7mm on the fork and 5mm on the shock. Of course I'm not hugely consistent in landing level, but it seems ok. Onto the next trail, feels improved from my original setup especially on braking bumps. Onto the next trail, again noticeably improved on a long rock garden. Next trail has the biggest drop, and I always land it differently so won't read much into the travel used each end, but it felt ok.
