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Hi guys, I've got a Cannondale RZ120 full suss, which has (clue in model number) 120mm travel front and rear. Up front it's got Rockshox Recon TK solo air which seem fine (well they ARE new) but I've got some FOX 140mm travel forks which are superb on another bike.
Should / could I get away with switching them over ? What effect would that have on singletrack and general riding ? How would the difference in travel match up ?
you could always drop the Fox forks to 120, they'll still be good (certainly a lot better than the Recons)?
i will second wwaswas comment as running the bike with 140 will change the geometry and would make the bike handle differently, best to check the cannondale site to see what they recommend for max travel for your model.
Longer travel on the friont will shift your weight onto the back wheel, giving you a ride like a chopper.
Unstable front end.
Correct me if I'm wrong!
Thats enough of a change in geometry to make it feel quite odd. Probably feel rubbish !
Although...
fox forks (32mm ones anyway) are normally a little shorter axle-to-crown than RS for the same travel.
I've got some 140mm fox vanillas and they are within a mm or two of some 130mm Recons I had. So it might only be 10mm or so actual difference in fork length, even if the travel difference is 20mm.
Measure up the actual axle to crown lengths instead of looking at travel length, probably so little in it its not worth worrying about
quoted lenghts...
F120: 490.9mm
Float, Talas, Van 130: 500.9mm
Float, Talas, Van 140: 510.9mm
Recon AM 120: 499mm
Recon AM 130: 509mm
10mm is nothing. Go for it.
Besides - what have you got to lose by trying it?
Even riding about with my handlebars higher up the stem makes the bike feel different...........If you can try before you buy then that may be an idea.
Geometry is very important and makes a bike work.
I don't think this is a case of try-before-buy, OP said he already has the forks, just a case of swapping over...
10mm wont make *much* difference, hell, it might even make it better 😉
you could always drop your stem/flip it/use lower bars to keep the same positioning.
and if after all that you don't like it, put the recons back on.
[i]if after all that you don't like it, put the recons back on. [/i]
or drop the fox's to 120mm?
I put 140mm Fox Vanilla on my Stumpjumper 120. A definite improvement over that standard Manutou apart from on very steep climbs (i.e. 1st gear) when the front end becomes light and a bit wayward. My work around is to lock down the forks with a toe strap, not ideal but it does the job (I only bother on long climbs) .
or what wwaswas said, just depends if you have the spacers and are happy doing it yourself.
[i]My work around is to lock down the forks with a toe strap[/i]
😯
must be interesting when you forget to remove it for a descent!
I can't see it making too much difference - it will slacken head and seat angles and raise bottom bracket height. You can combat some of the weight shifted rearwards by budging your saddle a bit further forward.
must be interesting when you forget to remove it for a descent!
Yeah... doesn't exactly give a compliant ride. TBH it's impossible to forget the forks are locked down. I only put it on for climbs that are long and steep, so I'm usually grateful for the extra 10s of rest at the top whilst I take it off.