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I'm interested in knowing if this is a tricky task. The frame has holes ready to accept the cable, but requires the lever to be disconnected and ran down the seatube, around the bottom bracket shell and up the downtube....!!! sounds like it could be a bit of a nightmare.
anyone done this successfully?
Stealth comes with a little double ended threaded connector so you can screw the hose onto some gear cable or a spare hose. Gear cable is easier to push down a tube than the hose is to push up, so you could feed cable down from the head tube to the BB and either join there inside the shell, or push the gear cable round the bend. Possibly 😉
hmmmm.... yes, thanks for that. good to know.
The Enduro has a little hole in the downtube just up from the bottom bracket and the hose exits there and runs outside the frame. Its just the bit down the seatube and BB that might be tricky.
Also, if the cable is hidden in there how - or can you take the post out easily? maybe i should think about this alittle more first.
Ta for the info tho'
Perhaps you could feed the hose down the seat tube, out the BB shell
Then push the cable/hose and connector into the downtube hole and out of the shell
Both cables now exit on the same side of the bike - take then a decent distance out and use the connector or just some tape. The long distance will allow a smooth bend as you feed the hose into the BB and out of the frame. I don't think it'd be too bad - not far off what I did on my 2012 Mega, except my hose exits the frame and comes up the outside of the downtube.
The newer Stealths come with a connector at the base - to remove the post, undo the remote, pull the slack into the frame and pull the post out. Undo connector and remove.
It's a bit more fiddly than a standard Reverb, but I really like the clean routing and extra drop of a 150.
I normally use string then pull it through the hose with tweezers, but this sounds like a pretty awkward one...
If you want to take the post out easily, you need to make sure you have enough slack in the hose to extract it (and get at the connectamajig, if you want to disconnect it entirely). You'll get a bunch of slack at the bar ends anyway which on mine is just enough, so it's not as awkward as it sounds- at worst, you'll need to disconenct the bar clamp but I can do it with everything in its right place
best way to do it, done it on a few Transition frames is feed some gear cable through the hole at bottom bracket from the outside into the seat tube, when the cable comes out the top of the seat tube use the red double ended connector to attach one end to dropper post at trigger end ( unscrew the cable at trigger end, its a threaded barb) then just carefully push & feed the dropper post cable through the bottom bracket hole. Simples..
cable tie along frame & cut to required length & re screw onto barb on the trigger device
It depends if the frame is carbon, as the BB shell is not open like a normal frame.
I ran a stealth on my old Enduro (2014 model). I used the existing specialized command post cable to route it with. It was nice & easy. I'd run a cable through, disconnect the reverb from the lever end, join the cables and pull it back through, then reconnect to the lever. Done.
Fairly simple.
Remove the wheels from the bike and the standard post.
Add a small weight to your string, a small nut will suffice.
Turn the frame upside down
drop the nut through the 'stealth' entrance on the downtube
rotate the frame until the nut and bit of string run past the BB and uo & out the seat tube.
Tie or the string at the down tube end so it doesn't pull all the way through.
Carefully unscrew & remove the lever from the hose of the Reverb.
Screw in the small red 'blanking plate' thing into the hose.
Tie the string through the hole in the 'red thing'
Pull the string and the hose back through the frame
When you're approaching the end of the hose, carefully position the Reverb into the frame
Remove the 'red thing' and re-fit the lever - if you're carefull you wont need to bleed the system.
Adjust the height of the seatpost in the frame to suit.
Tighten up the downtube cable giudes.
Remember to leave a little slack so it you want to check whats happening in your seat tube you only need to undo the lever and slide some extra hose through the stealth hole, this will allow you to move the Reverb clear of the frame incase you want to or need to inspect the seat tube.
HTH..
The newer stealth posts have a funky connectormajig so you can take the hose off the post at the bottom and feed it in from the bottom up.
The connectamajig's quite bulky though so I think often won't fit through the frame holes etc.
Northwind - true, I ended up taking the grommet out of the frame, making a hole the right size for the hose then carefully stretching the grommet over the connectormajig and putting the whole thing back in the frame after slapping some silicone grease on it to ease installation.
Is the Enduro not like last year's Stumpy Evo then? The holes for stealth routing on that are 1mm narrower than a Reverb hose, obviously because the outer for a Command Post is that diameter. Easily widened, but a total pain in the arse before you realise what's going on.
Oh and once you have fitted it bleeding it is fun as the bleed screw is on the bottom of the post (not the top like my other standard reverb)!
wow, thanks for the responses everyone. lots of good guidance to follow.
Yep! Just done exactly that. [url= http://http://www.3peakscycles.com/p/6650/Specialized-Enduro-Comp-2014 ]www.3peakscycles.com/p/6650/Specialized-Enduro-Comp-2014[/url]
Are you sure it has stealth routing ? I looked at an Enduro and it just had inside the top tube routing which would only work with a conventional dropper post , not a stealth . And as has been said you will need to file them out to get a reverb hose through .
No, they have a different hole in the downtube, under the last bolt on cable guide.
It's a big hole, not like the small TT one you can't fit a Reverb cable in.