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No not me doing it. A competent mechanic.
Of course not the Mazz official figures. Any guidelines on best cc levels and possible(?) Oil weight change and brand?
Possible to run alot lower oil in oil leg and use air psi preload to assist more??
Weight is 95kg's. I think these forks have had 3 stw owners!
Bump
too little oil and the damping doesnt work
oil weights are totally dependont on damping preferance. if your adjusters are at either end of their movement go up or down a weight to suit.
oil brand doesnt matter.
i'm 13st and run the recommended fork oil weight and enough oil to make the damping work. as an aside in my 2006 z1s - in one leg i have removed a spring (but added more oil to keep the damping working) and i`ve reduced travel to 130mm (from 150). i run a wee bit more air pressure to stop it being too divey. (i thought i'd see if it worked before buying a new spring set. it does so i havent)
Thank you- If I'm sat on the bike - which spring have you removed- on my left or right?
How many cc's did you put in its place?
This [i]may[/i] be useful ......
I have fettled with quite a few of the open oil bath Marzocchi forks and have found them to be more susceptible to oil levels and weights than other brands.
That said the latter forks may be different.
I found that adding a thicker oil (7.5wt to 10wt) needed a firmer spring as alone it made the fork feel overly sluggesh. I found the same with air preload.
May just be me or for that matter may just be the design.
Oil levels on the Marzocchi site are not always correct. I used the stated volumes on some 2005 130mm all mountain forks and suffered from reduced travel. I had to take 20ml out of the damping leg to achieve full travel. Left leg stated 60ml, but this stopped the ETA from working. I reduced this to 30ml and it started working again.
Right spring removed- rebound leg. It is easier to tell what oil level you need as it gets super sqelchy untill the oil level is ok. Dunno how much is in there. Just chucked it in in a totally uncientific manner till it sounded healthy. Put the top can on and experimented with air preload.
The dampers are super simple so don't get bogged down in detail as there is no real finesse to tune. The benefit is it works forever. Without service, cleaning oiling or any of that boring maintenance crap non open bath forks need.
Ta. I opened the left leg earlier to have a nosey. Noted the spacer although tipping the forks nothing came out! (Only did it for 5secs though)
Right spring removed- rebound leg
That doesn't make sense. Being that leg? i.e. surely the rebound needs assist from the spring to work effectively whereas the left leg just needs oil to aid compression with the spring (there) removed from that leg?
the air is a spring.
to be honest i just took it out to see if it would work. I needed to remove spring rate from the forks as i have spaced the top out bumber 20mm and the buggers didnt move much initially with 20mm of preload on 2 springs.
the bike was sat with the rebound leg closest....
and as i said i can tell if i havent enough oil in there through the damping cart.
no rebound issues to date. at least 1 yr on.