fatbike wheelbuildi...
 

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[Closed] fatbike wheelbuilding advice please

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😳

Wondering about doing this. I have a mukluk frame that's currently running 29er rims on 135/170 hubs.

Quite fancy building up some lightbicycle carbon rims - I have some of their road wheels that are nice, and I like the rim profile

They do centrally drilled 32s or dual-drilled (2x)32s, both in 90mm wide rim only. I have a nagging feeling that just using the centrally drilled rime would maybe not support the edges of the rim that well, and might overstress "something".

If I use a dual-drlled rim, the holes are 19.5mm either side of centre. If I build using these going from flanges to the "same side" offset holes it seems to me that there's not going to be that much triangulation on offer (I doubt it's that far removed from a conventional wheel but somehow feels wrong to me) and so I'm wondering if I should go to the opposing side instead. That, however, is a LOT of angle and not sure if the nipple would sit right in the rim

QUestions, then:

1) 90mm wide sounds like a lot - that OK for general riding ? (no snow, not much sand but plenty of mud)

2) Central lacing: that's 45mm "unsupported" either side to the edge of the rim - is that a bad thing ? (I have a feeling that some surly rims have offset drilling which presumably leaves more than that at one side ??)

3) If I went for the dual drilled, do I build like / \ or like X ?

4) Any top tips for building ?


 
Posted : 19/11/2014 5:06 pm
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1) s'fine - wider is better
2) go dual drilled
3) /\
4) not especially, it's just a wheel.


 
Posted : 19/11/2014 5:12 pm
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Dual drilled is so you can offset the hub to one side and keep equal dishing, at least that's been my logic. The rims are so beefy that I can't see igidity away from the holes being an issue.


 
Posted : 19/11/2014 5:47 pm
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As said, dual drilled are for offset like older surly, 9 zero 7 sliding frames etc..I wouldnt worrt about a central drilling being weaker, have you seen an offset build withh the spoke on on side..freaky man and yet still ateong like a gorilla


 
Posted : 19/11/2014 5:59 pm
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lots of mud? stick with the 29'ers, fat tyres ar bloody useless and scary in most sorts of mud.


 
Posted : 19/11/2014 6:20 pm
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Thanks for the thoughts, folks

@hofnar - I'm taking the word of one or two riders on here who're local to me and seem to think fatbikes work well (odd area - from waterlogged soil/mud to deep dry sand within a few yards, and repeat)


 
Posted : 19/11/2014 11:00 pm
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Yo in got the $10 off email too?

Tempting for tubeless, nut $268 is a lot for a rim, and weight is not that light.


 
Posted : 19/11/2014 11:19 pm
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TBH Al, I think I'd be a bit anxious if they were any lighter than that - I know heavy isn't always strong, but superlight is weak at least some of the time

Price isn't brilliant, I agree, though it's less than any "recognised" brand for a similar product. Certainly it's enough to stop me rushing into it for the sake of $10 (which I haven't had, btw 🙁 )


 
Posted : 20/11/2014 7:35 am
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Regarding the /\ or X question...

http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/why-arent-fat-bike-wheels-spoked-like-car-wheels


 
Posted : 20/11/2014 8:34 am
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Interesting Graham, cheers. Reckon it's central drilling at the moment, but X was probably my next preferred option


 
Posted : 20/11/2014 8:37 am
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hofnar - Member
lots of mud? stick with the 29'ers, fat tyres ar bloody useless and scary in most sorts of mud.

If you're using the wrong tyres yes


 
Posted : 20/11/2014 9:28 am

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