fat bike wheel buil...
 

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[Closed] fat bike wheel building

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got me a set of arctic cycles drilled 100mm rims

got me 1 x Rear XT hub for the front wheel

the wheel needs dishing to the left of centre- the spokes how ever area perpedicular to the hub - no matter how tight they will not pull the rim over. ive tried bending them but any tension as expected pulls the spoke back straight ....

its not off by much maybe 4mm - but with a 3.8 inch tire thats a lot;) but not having the angle on the spoke means my caliper rubs the spokes (and thats which tech race minis - wait till the avid BB7s on ...

any one come up with a solution ?


 
Posted : 17/12/2010 4:18 pm
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You sure the spokes are the right length?

Sounds like you need to go longer one one side and shorter on the other.


 
Posted : 17/12/2010 4:26 pm
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ooh, that's what I was about to say. It did take me about 3 goes before I got my first Pug wheel right 😳


 
Posted : 17/12/2010 4:29 pm
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see now i tried that also

all that happened was it took less time to get to the spokes are perpendicular stage ...

i honestly dont think its a length thing - its due to the flanges being at the same distance from centre as the drillings on the rim .....


 
Posted : 17/12/2010 4:30 pm
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I don't understand the problem, why can't it be dished?

Do you mean it's dsidhed as far as it will go? In that case the only remedy I can think of is drilling offset spoke holes.


 
Posted : 17/12/2010 4:30 pm
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left spokes to right flange

right spokes to left flange ....

that will be a hell of an angle

could work - confuse th **** out of me when im truing it 😀 strength could be an issue but would allow me some pull

oh and futon river crossing - arctic cycles 100mm drilled rims are around 1100grams when weighed yesterday


 
Posted : 17/12/2010 4:32 pm
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imagine you over dished a rear wheel al

and your drive side spokes were vertical

no matter how tight you tighten them you will never pull that rim over to the drive side any further,

thats where im at ... im not drilling new holes for 4mms !


 
Posted : 17/12/2010 4:35 pm
 GW
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Why did you choose a hub with an 8/9spd freehub and narrow flanges rather than a SS hub with wide flanges or a specific 135 front fatbike hub? Surely someone must make 135mm front disc hubs for these rims/bikes? if not that's just retarded


 
Posted : 17/12/2010 4:46 pm
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I get it - I'd not realised there were 2 sets of spoke holes in the rims.

Thing is it's not just 4mm you need - there will be very little strength on a wheel so heavily dished.


 
Posted : 17/12/2010 4:47 pm
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they do make them - namely phil woods $$$$$$$$$$$$

cost

swapability with rear wheel ...

could have used an SS wheel i guess - just bought a matching front hub to go with the rear tbh ....


 
Posted : 17/12/2010 4:49 pm
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it has zero dish atm - but effectively both sides are at max dish if you get me ...

really both sets of spokes are perpendicular really - your right its not particularly strong but i am waiting on goldtech to release some nice betd based fat bike hubs (which they are working on )


 
Posted : 17/12/2010 4:52 pm
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really both sets of spokes are perpendicular really

Jeepers I don't think I'd want to ride that!

pics?


 
Posted : 17/12/2010 5:00 pm
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Do the crossover spoking - it's not as tricky as it sounds. It's a good idea to hit the inside of the spoke holes with a countersink - just a light touch of it.

It's how I solved the same problem for the offset hub for a Pugsley.

[url= http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1369/5178780700_c615a36f31_b.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1369/5178780700_c615a36f31_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url]

(I had to redrill to take a 32 hole hub.)

This wheel is what is currently on my fatbike, but I'm about to do another with a singlespeed hub.


 
Posted : 17/12/2010 5:11 pm
 Sam
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I'd have thought crossing them to the other side of the rim would work fine - like a spoked car wheel.


 
Posted : 17/12/2010 5:13 pm
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Surely someone must make 135mm front disc hubs for these rims/bikes?

Shirly doesn't but Paul does. 😆

Though these are for a 9mm front dropout not a 10mm that Mr rat's using.

[url= http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1254/5147959687_171929be99.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1254/5147959687_171929be99.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/stu-b/5147959687/ ]2010_1105fatfork0005[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/stu-b/ ]singlespeedstu[/url], on Flickr

So with the cross spoking do you have to true it backwards to how you normaly would then?


 
Posted : 17/12/2010 5:24 pm
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Spoke tension is still in the same direction, so no.


 
Posted : 17/12/2010 5:26 pm
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Cheers his the collective brain has confirmed my suspicions to be right . My mate was sure cross lacing would end in more tears than straight spokes from flanges

If your gonna do it do it right as thy say !

Now to change to my ice spikers on the Merida for tomorrows road ride.


 
Posted : 17/12/2010 7:34 pm

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