Etching a stainless...
 

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Etching a stainless steel frame

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As per post title - any recommendations of where I could get a Stainless Steel frame etched with some logos? (I have the artwork). I know Rob at RUST used to etch his Ti bars but he doesn't seem to be in business currently.

Thanks.

 
Posted : 07/09/2022 2:22 pm
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Nobody??

 
Posted : 08/09/2022 3:40 pm
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Maybe drop an email to Joe at Srarling, they etch their stainless frames.

 
Posted : 08/09/2022 4:03 pm
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@honerablegeorge unfortunately they're all etched at the Ora factory when made.

 
Posted : 08/09/2022 4:39 pm
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What you want is laser annealing. Not sure who does it in the uk, but someone will.

 
Posted : 08/09/2022 4:41 pm
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Don't you just use etching fluid? Make a stencil with vinyl and crack on.

Definitely something to look up on YouTube.

 
Posted : 08/09/2022 8:11 pm
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There must be a way to do this "at home".... anyone?

 
Posted : 09/09/2022 10:44 am
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There must be a way to do this “at home”…. anyone?

Not easily I can think of... I acid etch in reverse of this .. that is small bits like HT badges I can stick on. That is I mask off an area and stick in Ferric Chloride .. if its uneven (which can happen) I can just chuck the small bit and redo it.

If I was to try and do that with a frame it would need wrapping in something except the bit and immersing in etchant.
If it screws up (e.g. etchant gets under mask) then that's the frame gone.

Should anyone want to try I've loads of ferric chloride...
I suppose one way is to coat the frame in something resistant to the etchant through electro-plating or similar that can be easily removed then do the etch... I'm struggling though to think of something that can be easily removed but is resistant to something that will etch stainless steel.

 
Posted : 09/09/2022 11:16 am
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Sounds "messy".

 
Posted : 09/09/2022 11:18 am
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kelvin

Sounds “messy”.

It's also really difficult to control...
In theory you mask off what you don't want etched... the acid/reageant then removes what isn't... and you hope/rely etchant just works in 2D ... doesn't get behind the mask or start to "undermine" (or whatever you'd call it) the mask - by which I mean it starts eating away in 3D...

It tends not to undermine (much) because of the bubbles ... but you can't actually see and the same bubbles help keep the edges square also pull at any mask you added...

I've got a stainless cup spare I might have a play with... but bike frame ... not a chance.

 
Posted : 09/09/2022 11:35 am
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Engraving instead of etching?

 
Posted : 09/09/2022 11:39 am
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At work we etch all the stainless items with an elecro etcher. The quality of the finish does depend on a few factors like material grade/quality and how clean the item and etching fluid is.

The stencils are expensive; a couple of hundred quid each. We've got a stencil printer, but it's very easy to crease the paper which then produces lines on the item being etched.

 
Posted : 09/09/2022 12:00 pm
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DIY? Chemical/electro-chemical processes either won't be easy or won't work on SS tubes
Cerakote would be my choice for a custom DIY finish https://www.cerakote.co.uk/

 
Posted : 10/09/2022 7:52 am
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There must be a way to do this “at home”…. anyone?

Sorry - I thought you were looking for a professional service...

DIY electro-etching. You will need a vinyl stencil negative of your artwork and a DC voltage source (You can get stencil tape for some of the P-Touch label printers).

Youtube is full of 'how to' videos (mostly American / knife-ey types, but if the opening 10 seconds doesn't scare you off, the info can be useful)

At its simplest:

A bit more refined:

(and as I said, loads of others.)

 
Posted : 10/09/2022 9:09 am
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Just tried it on stainless (took about 10 mins total):

A590F89E-E75C-4367-B5CD-917840189D01.jpg

B8BA4AF9-3753-400C-ADBF-BAAFD1FD94E4.jpg

9D9CA00B-72CC-4D27-A0B8-9FAB3340F6A7.jpg

I'd probably want to practice a bit before risking a bike frame though.

 
Posted : 10/09/2022 9:59 am
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I had some parts (long stainless tubes) bead blasted to produce a logo once. Thick vinyl adhesive stencils cut in a plotter, then asked a local company to do the blasting.

Worked well, but they did require several parts upfront to test the media/pressure/time/distance. Getting the glue residue off was also a total bum ache. A frame would be a bit of a gamble.

 
Posted : 10/09/2022 10:23 am

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