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Anyone using or have experience of the OE-only AXS rear mechs with extension cord for Bosch motors? Cost and unnecessary tech aside, I'm not against the battery versions and I'm good at remembering to charge things but I'm looking at an Ebike with the cable AXS, it seems like another cable to come loose / get snagged / corrode etc.
Option to consider is to swap my current Linkglide onto the new bike and buy an AXS battery and put AXS on the pedal bike.
And as an aside how long are Sram 1275 cassettes lasting on full power ebikes? Running 2 chains I'm lucky to get 6 months out of the smaller sprockets on linkglide, which are only replaceable when in stock & only the lower end versions of Sram casettes have replaceable sprockets.
My e-gravel bike has one.Â
The logic behind it is that having the bike powered but the mech running out of power is a bad idea, especially if you're stuck on the 10T cos the Bosch motors really don't like low cadence / high torque input.
So if you can power the wireless mech off the onboard battery instead of it's own independent one, you avoid all that.
Short answer - it works fine, no issues at all. The cable (on mine anyway) is well shielded and even if it was snagged I suspect it would simply pull the cover off the battery terminals on the mech.
AFAIK it's just a cable and adapter instead of the AXS battery...
Personally, one less thing to charge is always a good thing... Especially given the AXS derailleur uses so little energy to execute shifts. But that said, I'm not a fan of AXS shifter ergonomics (neither the older ones, nor the new pods) so have stayed away from it... Ordered my Eagle 90 Groupset the day it was announced though, just awaiting for my new bike to arrive to fit it to!
Funnily enough, I have just made one for my Kenevo SL. Specialized do a 12v splitter that goes into the TCU loom for use with lights, so I used that and an adjustable Buck converter to drop the 12v to 8.5v (7.5v was too low and gave low battery errors). Then a cable to the mech, and a red battery block thing drilled to take a couple of terminals. The outer part filled in with epoxy and sprayed black. Works a treat.
The Spesh SL bikes cut assistance at 5% battery to leave power for lights, so it's unlikely it'll run out enough to not shift.
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Sure I read on an ebike forum that with the Bosch system you need the capability to use the proper SRAM one activated using dealer-level software, though.
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I hadn't thought of not being able to shift if you kill the main battery, which I do do sometimes (3 year old 720 battery on CX4). I've read about the newer batteries keeping some charge for lights etc so maybe the same for mechs. At least I can just buy a battery and charger if I want to swap it over onto my proper bike.
Sure I read on an ebike forum that with the Bosch system you need the capability to use the proper SRAM one activated using dealer-level software, though.
You do... But it's a quick job. Plug in to the diagnostics software, check a tab to switch the derailleur's power output on (much like with a light), let it update, unplug and off you go...
I hadn't thought of not being able to shift if you kill the main battery, which I do do sometimes (3 year old 720 battery on CX4).
My e-bike will keep the integrated lights and the electronic shifting going for 2hrs after it's run out of power for the motor.