[Closed] Dumb questions about tubeless

1. Yes, lighter and can run lower pressures which aids grip, but I suspect most people run them for puncture avoidance. Certainly, that's why I do

2. Rims and tyres need to be compatible (that's a whole other discussion). You'll also typically need valves, rim tape (typically adhesive tape) to seal the spoke holes and some sort of sealant to slip around inside and plug the smaller leaks

3. A small puncture will normally self seal - you just add a bit of air. Something bigger, or if the tyre stops holding air on the trail, will require a tube. Just as easy to swap as a normal tube replacement, but far, far less common.

A decent pump really helps the initial seating process. Loads of videos on YouTube to help you.

When you get a puncture you see or hear where it is and spin the tyre so the hole's at the bottom. The sealant then runs down and seals. Honestly it's like ****ing magic, the first time it happens you see the benefits and wonder why you didn't do it earlier.

How easy is it to set up? I gather you need suitable rims and tyres, valves and I’m guessing some glue?

The "ghetto tubeless" method with a split inner tube as a rimstrip is reasonably foolproof.

http://www.mtbtechniques.co.uk/MaintananceGhetto.html

Thanks for explaining. Sounds like it's worth a go.

Tubeless tyres being lighter is just a myth surely? No innertube so what. If you want those low pressures where do you think the strength to support the wheel away from the ground comes from? More rubber. Lightweight tubeless tyres barely any better than tubed versions for puncture resistance even with goo. Or is that just cos they were going cheap on offer?

1. What advantages does it have? Lighter weight presumably. Grip?

you dont get punctures - or they self seal and lower pressures - but i weigh nothing so that was not a reason for me I doubt you save much weight as tubeless tyres tend to be heavier IIRC

2. How easy is it to set up? I gather you need suitable rims and tyres, valves and I’m guessing some glue?

IME very variable i have had everything from pop on with a track pump to half a days faff then borrowing a compressor - and that was tubeless rim to tubeless tyre. It is very dependent on the rim and tyre. I dont recommend trying non tubeless tyre to non tubeless rim unless you go ghetto

3. What do you do in the event of a p@#£-+!e? Put a tube in?

if it does not seal then use a tube. Never happened to me though I once lost so much pressure it was unrideable and the valve was gummed up so i could not undo it

I run tubeless because:

1) I can run much lower pressures, which gives way more grip, control and comfort.

2) I get better rolling resistance.

3) I've had one puncture in a decade of riding, when I rode through two broken bottles on a cyclepath.  First big cut sealed, but I lost enough sealant that the second one didn't.

how can you both gain grip [ friction] and get better rolling resistance[ reduced friction]?

you sure its a physics degree you have? 😉

Seriously though HOW ?

Tire deforms easier to small bumps at lower pressures rather than moving over (lifted by) them.

how can you both gain grip [ friction] and get better rolling resistance[ reduced friction]?

Rolling resistance is a pretty complex issue.  The friction that contributes to rolling resistance is friction within the tyre as it deforms.  It's not really friction as such (except perhaps between tyre and tube) but more like hysteresis loss in the rubber.  Less rubber means less loss, I think.

However off road, with lots of little bumps in the trail, the lower your pressure the more your tyre deforms over the bumps instead of bumping you up and down.  The hysteresis losses in the volume of air are not that great, so when the tyre carcass deforms and compresses the air you get that energy back.  Just find someone with a plus bike at 15psi and coast down a rocky trail next to them - they will accelerate past you remarkably quickly, as I found out.

Despite my physics degree I won't claim to know the details since it's a complex engineering situation, but big tyres at lower pressures definitely roll much better on rough trails - it's hugely obvious if you ride with someone who has them.

Another for the stupid questions: what happens if you have a bike set up tubeless and don't ride it for a few months? Does all the sealant clump together at the bottom of the tyre? Even if you do ride that bike regularly how much extra faff / maintenance would you need over the course of a year?

Yeah right, same Q as last poster. Should the valves be left on top part of wheel when in storage to prevent the valve from getting gunged up?

I’ve heard as I tooam new to tubeless that a top up of stans fluid every 6 months would be advisable as it dries out over time.

I have always found that the sealant stays in liquid form when left on wheels over the winter months. Maybe a little drying out but not that much. Tubeless really is a no brainer when set up properly.

it will eventually dry up and be useless but I think this time scale is  more  a year + than months. I just leave my winter summer ones and then just ride them again. I also tend to just add some sealant every 6-12 months. It may eventually dry out to a large lump of sealant but I assume this takes a few years with no top ups

how much extra faff / maintenance would you need over the course of a year?

All the faff is setting it up after that its like having a tyre that doe snot puncture and once a year requires you to take some bead off[ ie one tyre lever wee space nothing more] or use a syrnige through th evalve [ core removed obvs]pour in some sealant put tyre back on rim and then reseal- [any pump will do this] which takes a few minutes. I do advise  buying cheap inner valves from ebay, carrying some with you and a valve tool - not that I have ever needed mine sine the incident that persuaded me to get this!

Cheers for the physics lesson - still not convinced it leads to better rolling resistance but the argument/your point does make sense