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Are wheels built using these as reliable in wheel tension and taking knocks as wheels using their conventional hubs
if you see what I mean?
Are they harder to build and do you have to use prolock nipples?
Cheers
I've built a set with SP 350 hubs which were great. Currently running a set of E1650's which are straight pull and they're brilliant too.
No issues with spoke tension etc. The rims and/or spokes will determine the nipples not the hub.
SP can be a little fiddlier to build since til there's some tension in them the spokes can turn in the holes but that's about it. I'm pretty sure the ones I had actually had smaller flanges, so would have less triangulation/longer spokes, ie exactly the opposite of all that bollocks that Boost is supposed to be about, but since that makes no difference worth typing about never mind changing the entire bike industry for, you'ld probably never notice.
I hate straightpulls but they do work and as long as you carry spare spokes you can get around the big drawback (ie, not being able to buy spokes on demand, unlike proper wheels)
I’ve got 2 sets of SP wheels, one have been brilliant nearly 5 years of ragging around all over the place and they’ve lunched a few spokes, but replaced those and a couple of true ups and they’ve been golden. Only 28h too, I was dubious about them but not a problem. Newer set on the HT haven’t done as many miles but fine so far.
Only ballache is spokes - keep a box of spares of the sizes you need as they can be a nightmare to pick up on the fly. No real difference in building between sp or jbend. How well the wheel is built and quality of components will far outweigh the difference between the spoke types.
I've ran a set of SP 350's for nearly 3 years, clocked up some serious racing mileage (24hr & 12hr racing) and they're as straight and true as the day I got them, the rims on the other hand a a tad dinged and knackered, but they still run true
Ok thanks for input, just wondered if they would be more suited to lighter rims or trail type rims as they're 28H but from reading what's been said it doesn't seem to matter about that.
I've noticed no functional difference between J bend and straight pull in use and the straightpull were fine to build (I put little tape flags on the spokes so I can see if they turn)
I wouldn't ordinarily choose straightpull because of the extra hassle buying spokes and calculating their length but could be tempted if they were a bargain
DT have been making the EX1501 wheelset, which is certainly a benchmark enduro wheelset for ages with tiny straight pull flanges, 28 spokes and alu nipples and you just don't hear of people wrecking them or saying they are not up to the job.
Bigger flanges/more spokes etc. might build you a stronger wheel, but ultimately whats more important is the quality of the build and components. You're far more likely to kill your wheels by denting the rim to death on an EX1501 than you are to fold it up. You almost certainly don't need any more than a 28H SP DT hub if you're building it right with the right components.
Another nice advantage of those straight pull wheels is that they use almost exactly the same length spoke front and rear, left and right, so you only need to have 1 length as a spare and it can go anywhere on the wheelset. It also means shops only need to carry 2 boxes of spokes in stock, 1 for 27.5" and 1 for 29".
@greyspoke they use regular DT Comp 2.0/1.8 spokes with Alu Pro Lock Squorx nipples.
I should point out though if you want to build 29er wheels, this combo can be a pain in the backside... 303mm SP spokes anyone?
I have DT E1700's with 350 straight pull hubs. After a full year of fairly hard riding and over 1000 off road miles, I haven't even had to put a spoke key near them.
Thanks, so nothing too thin and flexy there.
Straight pull is better in theory. Seem to work fine in practice (plenty DT SP wheelsets out there taking the abuse), can be a pain if the spokes start turning, nipples seize etc, spoke availability is much less if you pop into a random shop. Most people find it a bit more fiddly to measure flange position etc for spoke calculator (if not published, if its DT hubs just use their calculator)
I should point out though if you want to build 29er wheels, this combo can be a pain in the backside… 303mm SP spokes anyone?
Madison do DT Comp straight pull in 304, last straight pull build I did I ordered Sapim uncut (310mm), and just cut to length. Chicken now do a custom cut spoke service if you dont have a spoke machine.