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I’ve recently bought some Hope hubs and DT Swiss xm481 rims to build up into a new wheelset for mtb aeris. I’m looking to order DT Swiss double butted spokes shortly but just want some advice on nipples.
The rims came with phr washers (it’s a non eyeletted rim) and some alloy squorx nipples. I don’t really want to use alloy nipples or have ones you can only drive with an expensive driver or torx head bolt bodge.
Which non squorx brass DT Swiss nipple has the right profile for the phr washers on an xm481 rim? And then what length nipple should I be using?
Wheel is 650b - but I haven’t worked out spoke lengths yet. To add - it’s a j bend spoke build not straight pull.
Pro head pro lock or Squorx nipples have the correct chamfer to fit the PHR washers.
You can get brass versions of either and you can use a standard spoke key to tighten Squorx nipples - it’s only the inside face you need a specific or bodged tool for rather than a screwdriver on a standard nipple.
Thanks - is it me or are they difficult to find and quite expensive for nipples? Assuming the ones I have are squorx pro lock / pro head ones, does it matter if they’re alloy?
It doesn’t actually say on the starbike site (where they came from) if they’re alloy or brass on second look.
The pro lock bit is not important but most aftermarket pro head nipples are pro lock . All squorx nipples are pro head . Rose bikes are usually a good source for dt nipples.
Personally I'd use the supplied ones . Bath them in a light oil then build them up .they'll be just fine.
Cheers Ben, when you say a light oil would some wet chain lube do the job? Maybe I’ll just bodge a squorx tool to get the nipples on to start with then use my normal spoke key per any other wheel build.
In which case I just need to order spokes from Rose.
Joebristol I recently needed to buy DT brass nipples and washers for a build and bought a pack of 100 of each, so I've got some spare if you want.
I bodged a squorx tool by filing down the thread on a disc brake bolt and inserting it into the end of a piece of dowel. It took ages and a few goes to get it in without cracking the dowel. After I built the wheels there was too much thread showing, think the squorx nipples have more thread behind the rim bed. I used normal nipples with the PHR washers and the wheels have been fine.
Thanks riklegge- I’m tempted to go with Ben’s suggestion and just use the nipples and washers that came with the rims.
Inlike the dowel idea with a rotor bolt - I’ve got some big thick dowel tray moght sonthe job well - although I’m thinking I’ll drill a hole and epoxy the rotor bolt into it for security. I’ll only be ‘nipping’ the nipple up to get most of the thread taken up then using a normal spoke key when I get into really tensioning the wheel.
Odd that you had lots of thread showing with the squorx nipples but it was fine with normal ones.
It's not odd you had thread showing - there's more thread on the squorx nipples and they bind onto the spoke before you reach the end of the thread. Go with the same spoke length as you would normally.
I was recently told that the problem with alloy nipples is that the paint is damaged when you build the rim using a spoke key. If you true the wheel from inside the rim the nipples won't corrode. No idea if it's true but it does make sense to me.
Ive just used dt Swiss black brass nipples. They are heavier than the alloy nipples that Ive used before.
Ive found that for the riding I do, both road and mtb that the alloy nipples corrode and snap.
It never used to bother me as they are easily replaced but now everything is tubeless its a bit off a faff sorting it.
I always just use the stock alloy ones and use a decent wet chain lube on the threads of both the spoke and nipple.
That would work or I use a bottle of 3-1 I bought from the local hardware store for a couple of quid, so I can pour it over the nipples to get them fully covered, then drain through a funnel with a tissue 'filter'. Saves doing each one separately and hits up oiling the thread and the washer in one. (You don't oil the washer but the nipple is oily on the outside too)
Like that idea Ben - should make it less fiddly to oil them all. Maybe build with latex gloves on though and do it in the garage rather than the kitchen - otherwise the wife isn’t going to be best pleased 😞
I’m assuming you thread the nipple though the washer then feed it into the rim from the bottom so you don’t lose washers in the rim bed?
Those PHR washers will have you perfecting your rim dingle shake down boogie 😉
Don’t say that.....I dropped a couple of nipples into the rim with the first wheel build I did and it took ages to get them out - washers could be even worse!
Just after you drop the first one you'll realise you really should have spend the money on that DT squorx wrench after all. 😉
I am wondering about that - if I could get one for less than a tenner I’d buy one but they all seem to be near £20!
I’m a little unsure on spoke length right now - the DT Swiss calculator is saying I need 273/273 front and the same rear. But I can only find both DT Swiss and aci in 272/274 for reasonable prices.
Given I think DT often run a little extra threaded allowance and I’m using 15mm squorx nipples will I be ok with 274 instead of 273 spokes do you think?
Longer is better than shorter. 274 should be fine assuming 273 is correct.
Meant to say 272/273 front and 273/272 rear. In which case I’ll replace 273 with 274. Only marginally more expensive (£4) to go for DT Swiss competition spokes over ACI similar spec spokes so going to go with them from Rose Bikes.
I hope the DT calculator is right given I’m using DT rims, spokes and nipples.
Rather than spending £20 for the proper squorx tool you can just pick up an e5 torx bit for a couple of quid to use in its place. I did this for the xm481s that I built up recently and ended up not touching my spoke key all the way through the build. I did drop a washer into the rim though, extra annoying when it had been covered in grease and was sticking to the inside wall.
Kraftwerk 220005 Torx E5 insercion 3/8 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00GFIWFYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9OiSBbP75678J
Those recommending aluminium nipples, have you never had to rebuild or true a wheel where they have seized? Or had them collapse?
I've had lots of aluminium nipples with issues, but never the DT Squorx ones other than on wheels that have ghnked upi with sealant and I can't be bothered to work with them .
Never had them seize - guessing the lube helps? Based on west coast of Scotland, so they get wet way too often...
Had a couple fail, but not enough to be bothered about over 15 years or so building with them and riding them.
Well they’re getting built with the nipples provided with the rim now. Going to dump them all in a little pot of oil and build them wearing gloves. Just need to order the spokes now.
Also now need to sort out new cranks as I bent one in a crash today......