DT Swiss Star Ratch...
 

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[Closed] DT Swiss Star Ratchet!

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Well... these work great until you have to replace the rear wheel bearings!

Ripped the vice off the bench, no spanners or bars will shift it. Tried gripping the tool with a big pipe wrench until the socket/tool shattered!

Anyone else struggled removing the star ratchet nut thingy before and if so, how do I do it without setting everything on fire!

😁 thanks as always.


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 8:44 pm
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just buy a new wheel, less stress


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 8:46 pm
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Posted : 19/02/2021 8:49 pm
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Honestly, I'd swap a kidney for a replacement wheelset at this point!

Yep, I've seen the video. I bet that wheelset hasn't been ridden for 3+ years before he gently tugged it free 😂

Once I replace the tool and re-attached the vise, I think I'll try lashing some lengths of timber to the wheel for leverage or something.

Love my Reserve wheels and the hubs are ace, but this has really put me off them. Contemplating swapping the hubs for Hope or something.


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 8:54 pm
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I got one out of a hub that wasn't in a wheel. Old disk attached to the hub and bolted to a handy pizza oven crate. Removal tool with 1/2" socket fitting with a long jack handle to get the leverage.


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 8:54 pm
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Above is unfortunately a new wheel, so simple to undo, on older ones they're a real pain, i struggle as my bench isn't bolted down, so the whole thing shifts, you have to really get some penetrator in there beforehand and give it a try after it's soaked, otherwise you will need to try and replace that bearing without removing the ratchet part.


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 8:56 pm
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I think this is going to end up with an injury lol.

I'll order a new tool and start again during the week. WD40 do as a penetrator you think?


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 8:58 pm
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Plusgas is better.

Other than holding it still I found the ratchet a doddle compared to the crank bolt on a k series engine. Had to lay on the floor and use my leg on a 1m bar to move that!


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 9:01 pm
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Only if it's the actual penetrant!


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 9:01 pm
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Me holding the wheel plus tyre upright stopping it from turning and another bloke with a long wrench and about 3ft of scaffold pole for leverage. Didn't budge easily.


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 9:02 pm
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If its a 350 hub would you have the bearing numbers?


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 9:03 pm
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I just did one, 5 year old , very well ridden wheels. Bought the tool off ebay cheap, so nothing special. Stick the tool in nice big bench vice. Drop wheel onto the tool. Grip wheel and turn it to undo. It took a fair bit of force but came free OK.

I think the secret may be the Record 36 vice bolted with 3 M12 bolts to a 10 foot long solid steel welding table rawlbolted to the floor.


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 9:05 pm
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😃 to be fair your probably used to bigger jobs WF.


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 9:13 pm
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some comments on vid say freeze with this https://www.stirlingcycles.co.uk/tools-maintenance/tools/finish-line-chill-zone-180ml__20037

guessing plumbers freezing stuff will do same


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 9:13 pm
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Think I might bring it to you WF haha.

@boobs IF they're the right bearings the size is

6902
15x28x7mm

I got them from this eBay link.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6902-LLB-Enduro-Bicycle-Ball-Bearing-Abec3-15x28x7mm/282068982117?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Kinetic were out of stock and even though Simply Bearings is across the road from where I work, they were over double the price.


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 9:28 pm
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Given the hassle of getting in there why risk anything but the OEM bearing.


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 9:36 pm
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I've used Enduro bearings in the front, I'm sure they'll be fine (famous last words!).

To be honest, I didn't really look for OEM bearings for them.


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 9:43 pm
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Taken mine out quite easily but I would recommend clamping the tool in the vice than a big spanner. Hindsight and all that.....


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 9:50 pm
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The cheap tools that fit on a 1/2 inch breaker are so much better than the official DT ones. I used to approach the job with a bit of trepidition but now it's really pretty easy.

If you've got a really badly stuck one- and it does happen especially considering that there's 240 hubs that are old enough to have kids still in use- then a bit of heat makes a massive difference. Not just because it loosens the star, but also it loosens the seal on top and though you wouldn't think that'd matter, it seems to be the little bit of extra resistance that turns a really stuck star into a nightmare. Does destroy the seal though.

I'll happily trade you for a Hope 😉


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 9:51 pm
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I successfully unscrewed one using an impact wrench intended for undoing stuck car wheel nuts. Something like this

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cir13c-1-2in-impact-wrench-kit-12v/


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 10:00 pm
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I have used the WelshFarmer approach, with a 2m length of 3x2 strapped very firmly across the rim as a big old lever. First time I had to replace the bearings I snapped a 3" Record vice which was a bit of a shame.


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 10:08 pm
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How did you stop the wheel from spinning with the force of the impact wrench?


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 10:11 pm
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I had the clamping tool in the vise, but I ripped it off the desk... made a right mess! Need thicker bolts to secure it next time.

Lots of good ideas to aid my next battle, so thanks all.

@Northwind Do you have a link to a particular tool to fit 1/2 inch bars?

Mine wasn't an official one, but it was set up in the same way if that makes sense?


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 10:17 pm
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Huh- I assumed it'd be easy to find the one i have, it was £15 off ebay... But I can't see any sellers now. Still, the hex type will be the next best option since you can just slap a socket on it. Basically DT's way of doing it is stupid

argee
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How did you stop the wheel from spinning with the force of the impact wrench?

It's dead easy with an impact because of how it applies the force, you can just jam it against a wall. Easiest with a tyre on of course.

TBH with the 1/2 inch type tools, everything is much easier since you're not fighting the tool any more. it's amazing how much of your effort you're normally wasting just working round that.


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 10:18 pm
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I'm tempted by an impact wrench now to be honest.

I'll have a look for a replacement tool too.


 
Posted : 19/02/2021 10:30 pm
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Interested in the OEM bearing chat, are DT's bearings anything special?

They certainly feel special, my DT wheels spin more freely than any other wheel I own.


 
Posted : 20/02/2021 1:08 am
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Honestly, I’d swap a kidney for a replacement wheelset at this point!

i have a friend who needs a kidney. what wheels do you want?

i’m teasing, but if you are offering get in touch


 
Posted : 20/02/2021 1:49 am
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How did you stop the wheel from spinning with the force of the impact wrench?

As above, I just jammed it in the corner of the workshop.

Ps on this same job I had broken a cheap vice trying to get it undone using the tool in the jaws method


 
Posted : 20/02/2021 7:59 am
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How much use would an 18v makita impact driver be?


 
Posted : 20/02/2021 9:14 am
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Just to be clear, what I used is not the same as one of those small drivers that puts screws in. It's a big heavy thing that has an internal flywheel that spins up. The flywheel then catches a mechanism internally and absolutely smashes the socket anti clockwise.


 
Posted : 20/02/2021 9:39 am
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I tried using my Makita 18v impact driver on my hub before the jack handle. It did not do the job despite repeated long application (long enough I was worried about damaging the tool). When the jack handle made the ratchet move it was clear the impact driver hadn't touched it.


 
Posted : 20/02/2021 9:58 am
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13thfloormonk
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Interested in the OEM bearing chat, are DT’s bearings anything special?

They certainly feel special, my DT wheels spin more freely than any other wheel I own.

I think they're just a high quality stainless bearing, nothing outright "special" but better than many. I've always just replaced with the usual suspects- koyo, ina, fag, skf- and they work well. I mean, the bearing is so well protected in there that for a lot of people the first bearing will outlive the bike, I doubt I've ever changed a particular hub's bearing more than twice.

b33k34
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How much use would an 18v makita impact driver be?

Impact driver? (ie screwdriver type) Bugger all probably. Impact wrench? I have done this job with mine and it worked fine, but, the ring can be stuck in by various amounts and I'm sure it could defeat my gun if it's really bad. There's also a lot of variation between the makita guns (the number in the name more or less equates to the fastening torque, and the breaking torque is usually about 150% of that. I have a 285 and it's a fantastic bit of kit but I only have it for car reasons, I've used it maybe 3 times total on a bike, it'd probably be insane to buy one for bike reasons only)

For this job I reckon my 750mm breaker is at least as effective, though, it's harder to get the wheel braced. (for sure skinny me, bouncing on the end of the bar, can produce more breaking force than the impact can, but you can't really do that in this job without a partner or some really clever bracing since you're usually also holding the wheel. And in the same way there's restrictions on how long the bar can usefully be)

Honestly I reckon that a big breaker is just as effective


 
Posted : 20/02/2021 1:52 pm
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Get the 1/2 tool and head down your local tyre fitters or garage with beer or cakes in hand and all will be good . Just make sure they turn it the correct way !!!


 
Posted : 20/02/2021 2:17 pm

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