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Checking out the 370s, they're quite a bit cheaper! Main difference seems to be the freehub ratchet - are they the same in other respects, and are they the same reliability wise ?
ah but the magic is in the ratchet. You might as well get any old cartridge hub
The 350's are much easier to work on and the sheer number of DT ratchet systems out there means that spares are easy to come by.
Also you can upgrade the 350's to faster engaging ratchets if you so choose, not an option with 370's.
They're both valid choices but if you can stretch to them I'd go for 350s.
I have any old cartridge hub (the stock one on a spesh enduro comp 2015) and it keeps blowing bearings, nowhere near as durable as the hope on the other bike.
Happy to save 50+ quid by not having ratchet magic but I absolutely don't want something made of cheese like my current one.
So, will 370 fit the bill?
Pair of 370 hubs (on factory R20 DT rims) on one of my bikes that I didn't do anything to for around 4 years / 4k miles. Only ended up taking the freehub body off then as it seemed a bit draggy.
Gave it a wipe inside with a rag, regreased what I could and have ridden again for X thousand miles more.
Couple of the bearings are slightly noisy and bit of polishing on the pawls but they still roll well and keep going.
I wanted an excuse to change the wheels but nothing come up yet. 1500g, decent engagement, fast rolling, and (as they are dicut) very pretty.
Do also have some R24s on my CX bike which have 370 hubs - all I have had to do in however many thousands of miles is pop the freehub body off to regrease around the seal, and they get all sorts of use (rain, sleet, snow etc).
Well, I've got (had) a 370 rear hub and stripped the ratchet after about 1800km and the ratchet is stuck in the hub. I had hoped I'd be able to replace the ratchet with the 350 internals (there's a You Tube video showing what parts are needed and how to do it) but instead had to spend a load of money on a complete rear wheel instead.
(Yes, I could have used the old rim and new spokes + new hub to build up another but the extra time and minimal cost savings weren't worth it...)
So on a sample size of one, I'd avoid the 370! 😉
Don't get 370's, get the 350's as a minimum.
I had the same issue on a (re-branded) 370 as him up there, my 350's have been faultless. Then again so have my 240's
Steve...were you able to remove the ratchet or did you just bin the hub?
If you can afford it then I’d get the 350 as it is a better hub.
To offset the 370 drama above I have one on an E1900 wheelset that came on my Bird Aeris just and a bit years ago. So far it hasn’t had any maintenance of any form done to it and it’s still rolling well / clicking nicely.
DT hubs in general are well sealed. Its the end caps I think. They're a tight fit so seals nicely. Opened up both 370 and 350 hubs after years of use, expecting bearings to need doing and nothing other than wipe and bit of oil required. Bearings themselves were buttery smooth.
That said, 350 is nicer. There's risk of pawls or spring on 370 breaking and seems less likely with ratchet to break. Though I have heard the higher engagement ones aren't so durable.
The ratchets sound terrible, if you don't need the faster engagement go for the 3 pawl one, I'm upgrading to it now.
Cant comment on the reliability, becuase I got rid of my 370 after a month and went to 350 rear hub. The engagement on the 370 is too low. Really noticeable on any techy stuff. I got the 350 and ugraded to 52t ratchet.
The ratchet sounds great. 😜
Yohandsome has a unique take on this topic. 😉