I've got some Giant branded 3 pawl hubs built onto some nice carbon rims and it's time for a service. Freehub is dated 2014 and the hubs were originally on PXCR-Composite 1 wheels.
I'm going to have to buy a ratchet tool anyway at some point but from what I can tell I'll need to unscrew the bit the pawls go into to change bearings anyway... and I need new a pawl spring which I guess means replacing the pawls...
If I can change the 3 pawl to ratchet I'll pay a LBS to remove the current lockring rather thanb buy a tool to use once and buy a new freehub etc. swap the bearings out and I'd only need a single tool I can use in the future.
There is a vid on youtube somewhere that covers this although it is on a DT branded hub rather than a Giant.
There looks to be rather a lot of new parts required and the new ratchet lockring alone seemed quite expensive, then you have the ratchets themselves and spacers etc, it's getting into new hub territory.
3 pawl to ratchet
Cheers Alan...
I'm not far off needing a new freehub anyway but happen to have an XD one spare for a ratchet.
Factoring in a new set of spokes ... and chucking the 18T in letting me upgrade the other wheels to 36T.
In my optimism I hope these hubs would carry me until I'm dragged kicking and screaming into boost 😉 and maybe the best option is just to pay the local Giant store to replace the bearings and new spring (and doubtless I'll have to buy pawls)
As the Youtube vids say a 3-pawl-ratchet conversion can be 'done', but it leaves a gap between the hub and freehub that means the ratchets will effectively be open to the elements and are going to get contaminated pretty much instantly. The hub will feel fine in your hand but won't actually work in the real world.
My advice; stick with the 3-pawl, DT do a service kit that includes greas, spring and the pawls for a princely sum of £7.99.
My advice; stick with the 3-pawl, DT do a service kit that includes greas, spring and the pawls for a princely sum of £7.99.
This looks like the way to go but £60 for the tool... it's not 100% I need to the tool to remove the bearings but the hubs are different enough (or bastardised) from 350/370 to not make it obvious. The endcap definitely needed unscrewing with cone spanners... the manual for 370's say's they may or may not need the lockring removed depending on exact year... and these seem band in the uncertain years...
Given this is self tightening once fitted I'm wondering if I can just get the retainer removed and tighten it back up by hand after I change bearings?
Stick with 3 pawl was also my conclusion when I looked at it.
I got the 3 pawl ring tool quite cheaply from the US I think but if I remember correctly the hub bearing would actually pass through the ring so you 'might' be able to get away without the tool. That's just from memory though and obviously depends on the hub and bearing sizes (that was a syncros road hub).
Ummm big hammer time.
I think but if I remember correctly the hub bearing would actually pass through the ring
It did ..PHEW.. just needed the 2 lb lump hammer (both sides to start them moving) so I'll just source a pawls kit and bearings. The front took quite a whack as well so haviong got the beariongs out that gave me a bit more confidence on the rear as well that they were just tight as well as the bearings being 18307 which should theoretically (and did) fit inside the ring.
Good work Steve :thumb:
