Dropper posts and w...
 

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[Closed] Dropper posts and workstands...

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Posts: 17187
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so how many of us diligently unbolt our droppers and pull them out the seat-tube enough to clamp conventionally ? I only do this occasionally, if I'm doing a job that needs leverage, like changing a bottom bracket. Most often I clamp lightly on the downtube (Soul) just above the bottle bolts. Stand is a Park PCS10.

I do wonder though....


 
Posted : 07/12/2014 1:10 pm
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I just clamp on the top tube.


 
Posted : 07/12/2014 1:13 pm
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Clean cloth wrapped round the dropper shaft, then into the workstand. If its bottom bracket removal, lower the workstand so the wheels are on the floor.


 
Posted : 07/12/2014 1:13 pm
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I slide the seatpost up (well, on one bike, there's enough seatpost anyway). But that's just because if I clamp it by the toptube it messes with cable tension and it's pretty awkward to clamp it by the downtube.

The solution to bottom bracket changes seems to be to not do it in a workstand? I've always done it wheels down


 
Posted : 07/12/2014 1:19 pm
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^^^^ I dont use toptube for same reason, downtube is easy and I think that if its not clamped mental tight it should be fine.

Yeah, BB wasn't a good example, because I tend to 'crack it off' with the bike out the stand, on the floor, then put in stand


 
Posted : 07/12/2014 1:21 pm
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Diligently undo the seatclamp and clamp on the proper part of the dropper, just in case I need to exert enough leverage on things like BBs and don't fancy either a dented top tube (Soul) or a sloppy sprained Reverb....... I also take the wheels off if appropriate to reduce leverage on the seatpost thus minimising potential flaring of the seat tube. Yes, it takes perhaps 40 seconds longer, but also gives me a chance to renew the carbon assembly paste and make sure the seatclamp torque is just right afterwards.


 
Posted : 07/12/2014 1:25 pm
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Always slacken seat clamp and move post up, only take a few seconds, why damage the shaft you would not clamp your fork stantions 😯


 
Posted : 07/12/2014 1:35 pm
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Topic starter
 

why damage the shaft
erm, I don't clamp the shaft.. 🙂


 
Posted : 07/12/2014 1:37 pm
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No, but Sir HC does.


 
Posted : 07/12/2014 2:18 pm
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Having a stealth reverb means moving the post up is a faff and top tube isn't round, so makes clamping difficult. No scratches or marks and have been doing it a year.


 
Posted : 07/12/2014 2:37 pm
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Compress dropper, undo seat qr, raise post, close seat qr. Clamp the lower section of the dropper.


 
Posted : 07/12/2014 2:47 pm
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Remove dropper, replace with original post & clamp that


 
Posted : 07/12/2014 3:38 pm
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Sir HC - Member

Having a stealth reverb means moving the post up is a faff

Not mine


 
Posted : 07/12/2014 4:34 pm
Posts: 1617
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I clamp mine around the top collar of the dropper and what is showing of the body of the post below the collar and above the seat clamp.


 
Posted : 07/12/2014 4:57 pm
 JoeG
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I use a Thule rack adapter

[img] http://cdni.llbean.com/is/image/wim/271457_0_41?rgn=0,0,1950,2250&scl=4.55607476635514&id=-Ts881 [/img]


 
Posted : 07/12/2014 5:34 pm
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I Just clamp the seat tube.


 
Posted : 07/12/2014 6:05 pm

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