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What is there around that you can do this with, other than the Gravity Dropper? Or do all hydraulic posts run the risk of drawing air in if you do this?
I'm looking at 125/150mm drop, 31.6mm dia, either stealth routed or fixed actuator (ie on body of post, like the KS Lev).
Yes, I know what the answer will be - "don't lift bikes by the saddle" but, after doing this for thirty years it's like remembering not to try switching the lights on automatically, even though you know that there's a power cut.
So, that's the Reverb eliminated (I have one already), KS, probably Thomson......
That Eightpins post would be ok but unfortunately is frame specific.
Command Post. The forgotten hero of dropper posts
You can lift a reverb by the saddle, just not when its down. So dont leave your saddle down.
Watched one of the drivers at BPW yesterday pulling on saddles to check bikes were secure, some of those with saddles down may have had a little bit of air ingestion into the hydraulic side.
Gravity dropper?
Today I learnt that I shouldn't be doing something I've always been doing 😳
after problems with 2 early reverbs, KS and a Command Post
(another problem ,got two times a new one so! )..
i went back to the old, trusty and adorable ugly Gravity Dropper.. 🙂
for [b]me[/b] problem solved..
just got another one from the US for my fatbike..
The Thomson post does not raise when you pull on the saddle.
I hadn't seen that Revive seatpost before, so thanks for that - I'll have a look for more info.
If I could get a Gravity Dropper in 31.6mm diameter with at least 125mm drop then I'd probably just use one of those as I like their simplicity and have them on a couple of other bikes (both 27.2 x 100).
And I do try to remember the non-lifting thing, but it still sometimes catches me out.........doesn't everyone have this problem or do some people never feel the need to lift bikes over stuff?
Edit....
Oh, so Thomson would be ok then? I didn't realise that, so thank you.
And I see I could get a GD in 31.6 x 125mm.....
Yep, lift bikes over fences/walls regularly, but never by the saddle as you have lift the bike much higher. Lift by seat tube and fork leg.
Yep, lift bikes over fences/walls regularly, but never by the saddle as you have lift the bike much higher. Lift by seat tube and fork leg.
Its not 'lifting' in that sense, you can 'lift' a bike an inch or two off the ground to move the back wheel to another spot, same issue.
I've got the same conundrum coming up as both my Reverbs are playing up. One is at the limit of stopping rotational play - largest brass keys in and it still wobbles - and the other is occasionally stiff to move and is now doing the 2-3mm sag thing. It' the new 'improved' one too and only 4 months old! I'm going for the Fox Transfer next time.
Always done it with my 2 KSs, never caused a problem... With the Reverb it seems like it can sometimes pull air past the IFP but then, so can just using it normally so that feels more like an excuse than anything else. (I avoided doing it with my new reverb, it went squishy anyway, because that's what Reverbs do)
I don't understand the problem - I mean this in a genuine constructive way here
Is the problem that:
- you shouldn't ever lift by the nose of the saddle with a dropper (up or down)
- you shouldn't temporarily store a bike by the nose of the saddle (up or down) a la BPW
- you shouldn't store it by the nose of the saddle full stop
I do the former sometimes when I need to move the bike, but not so much. Trying to work out if it's bad
And is the nose significantly worse than the tail?
- you shouldn't temporarily store a bike by the nose of the saddle (up or down) a la BPW
- you shouldn't store it by the nose of the saddle full stop
My X Fusion HiLO is cable operated and lives all it's life hanging from the rafters by it's nose. It's not had any effect at all.
Ben, its lifting the saddle when lowered that's the issue with reverb. The hydraulic lock is to stop the post going down, not up. Pulling on it can cause air to be sucked past the seal into the oil.
does a rebleed get rid of this air? Or have you got to strip it down (specialist tools needed?)With the Reverb it seems like it can sometimes pull air past the IFP but then, so can just using it normally so that feels more like an excuse than anything else
I don't see that it's a problem when the post is fully extended, whatever make it is and, as STATO said, the problem isn't really when you need to chuck a bike over a fence or wall but those odd moments when you just find yourself lifting the back of the bike even, like with me yesterday, to untangle it from some branches and brambles.
9point8 maybe?
On Reverbs I agree with Northwind.
does a rebleed get rid of this air?
It's not air in the remote system so bleeding that won't help.
Does anyone know if the Giant post is immune to the unintentional suspension seatpost conversion?
D0NK - Memberdoes a rebleed get rid of this air? Or have you got to strip it down (specialist tools needed?)
Needs a full strip. Tools required depends on which model- with my older one you don't really need anything, the IFP setting tool could be bodged around but it's only a fiver so I just bought it. And the oil tool is basically just a thin straw and a syring so I just made one. A 23mm crows foot is useful too. TBH Reverbs being what they are it's probably a useful thing to be able to do.
Strange, my reverb doesn't do this. If I lift the bike by the saddle with the seat down it doesn't rise, it stays put at the height it's locked at. My previous reverb didn't at first then started to do it, but didn't seem to be adversely affected by it - not immediately anyway. It lasted a good 18 months before it completely went wrong and I sent it off for a full refurb. Not refitted it post referb as yet.
The 9point8 and the raceface turbine droppers have both mechanical and hyrdraulic locking to give more security and less pressure on the hydraulics when it's locked. I've just sold one off my old bike and it was a great piece of kit. Only downside would be how fast it extends...very fast. Could be painful to some!