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So I've picked up a short dropper post for my lads bike - only snag is that it's internal routed and the frame isn't.
I did think about routing through the BB and out of the drain hole - but it's a cartridge BB and haven't got enough clearance for the cable.
I've seen a few people have drilled frames but I'm not entirely sure about doing it.
dirkpitt74 - Member
So I've picked up a short dropper post for my lads bike - only snag is that it's internal routed and the frame isn't.
Doesn't seem like the best purchase ever ?
I would on most frames - perhaps not a silly silly light one...
weeksy
Doesn't seem like the best purchase ever ?
Point taken - but I was sent the link to a new one which had external routing and told 'its exactly like this one'.
Ask the manufacturer of the frame for guidance?
I recently emailed Transition about advice of whether its OK to do drill a Bandit frame for a dropper post. They replied with decent instructions on the best location and size of hole etc ...
I think Liteville also have instructions on how to drill their older frames to adapt to internal routed dropper posts.
It's an old 24" wheel Carrera frame so contacting manufacturer isn't going to help.
dirkpitt74 - Member
It's an old 24" wheel Carrera frame so contacting manufacturer isn't going to help.
In that case, sod it, there's not a lot to lose really.
Done it on a trek slash frame for my lad a while back... No problems
As long as you're sensible with where/how you do it you'll be fine.
So where's the best place to drill and what size?
[i]In that case, sod it, there's not a lot to lose really.[/i]
Definitely this. I bet there are loads of youtube vids with people showing where to drill the holes.
Here ya go [url= https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+drill+frame+for+internal+dropper+post ]Few here[/url]
I opened up and angled one of the bottle cage mounts on my singlespeed for an internal dropper. So far so good...
[url= http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/drilling-a-steel-hardtail-for-a-reverb-stealth ]Click[/url]
^ Kayak is pointing at a really good thread that explains the process ...
Thanks 🙂
I've done it to 3 frames now. 2 steel, one aluminum.
Still alive I think..
The previous owner of my Codeine drilled it and it's caused no issues years down the line.
[i]Kayak is pointing at a really good thread that explains the process ...[/i]
So confident he doesn't even bother cleaning the frame first 😆
I've done it to a brand new bike, ally frame, Google around, you "should" be fine....
Thanks chaps.
Might have a look and see if there's a spare bottle boss I could enlarge.
So confident he doesn't even bother cleaning the frame first
Well, if I'd messed it up I'd feel happier putting it in a skip dirty. 😀
Might have a look and see if there's a spare bottle boss I could enlarge.
Usually your bottle bosses are relatively far in on the tube, but to give maximum seatpost insertion and to get a nice tidy bend that's out the way, it's good to get the hole a bit lower.
I did mine as low as I could while still staying away from the weld and also within the physical limits of getting a drill in there.
I did mine, looks great. not dead yet although that is inevitable
http://forums.mtbr.com/turner/stealth-mod-drilling-holes-your-alloy-frame-917427.html
followed advice on that link, which I got from turnerguy on here.
Just found the Liteville instructions online - they seem to suggest that the hole overlaps the weld by 1-2mm.
Seems counter intuitive to drill into the edge of the weld.
Just found the Liteville instructions online - they seem to suggest that the hole overlaps the weld by 1-2mm.
Seems counter intuitive to drill into the edge of the weld.
Health warning. Keyboard warrior no real expertise
If the bike is 6061 and then goes through the T6 process (like Orange) the whole frame recrystallizes and the welds are no in strength different to any other part of the metal