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I'm down for a few days next week staying on Portland, is there much in the way of decent off road, or I am best off cutting my losses and taking the road bike?
There's not a whole lot of road on Portland either! I used to do some of the coastal stuff cheekily and it was great, but more of it is closed now because of landslips, so probably road.
Portland is OK. There aren't any Bridleways but you can cheekily follow the footpath along the West Cliff all the way down to the Bill then around. There's a little bit of road to link up Southwell and the Grove but it's a picturesque ride with some fun MTB, Go and have a play in the quarries!
Loads of XC in Dorset. Everyone raves about Puddletown Forest but you need someone who knows where they are going for the good stuff.
It's a great road riding location also. The climb up from Victoria Square to Portland Heights is a good tester. Loads of great stuff avoiding the main roads you can get to Purbeck and back avoiding the busy stuff...
For offroad, as mentioned Puddletown is good. There's so many trails there now its quite easy to explore and just stumble across something.
Okeford Hill bike park is also good and has uplift over the weekends and Wednesday night.
http://www.okefordhillbikepark.co.uk/
Depending on fitness and time and whatnot, I'd be heading NE out of Wareham towards Bere, quite a lot of nice woodland tracks to get lost on around there, or of course East towards Old Harry but avoiding the edge.
I would defo be taking something with fat tyres.