[Closed] Does putting a coil travel adjuster into air forks turn them into coil forks?

no

Right, do you know what would the Pike coil adjuster would do for Revelation RL forks.

the travel adjuster will only work on a coil fork.

You need:

The 2 forks to be the same length, and be compatible inside
To remove all the air gubbins out of the leg
To replace the whole coil/uturn assembly

If it was an air PIKE and you wanted to put a PIKE coil into it, you'd be fine.

But you're looking at 2 different forks, of different ages and probably different lengths.

I say forget it!

(but I'm happy to be proved wrong)

EDIT
Just re-read your post. You want to turn them into AIR uturn forks using a coil adjuster, yes?
Not a snowballs chance in hell, they are both entirely different mechanisms.

The cheapest way for adding uturn to a non-uturn air fork is to sell them and buy some WITH uturn!!!!

I see.

nothing

Thanks Peter Poddy.

I may have found what i'm after.

Am I right in thinking that Tim Flook's old company would find it easy enough to change the travel on some forks from 150-120 to 140-110?

Thanks.

You can stick a Pike U turn spring in a Rev or a Reba (and any other fork RS with the same diameter stanchions) and it'll work fine as a coil sprung fork.

I've even run a Duke spring in a Pike to lower the travel.

Right, thanks, think i'm settled on air forks for now.

Am I right about the bushing adjustment for forks, in that it's possible to lower the travel by ten mm, so it's the same range but the forks are a tad shorter?

Tim

you would be better going for an "all travel adjust".

A u turn assembly is all very well, but they do rattle at anything but the top and bottom extremes and it winds me up no end.

All travel adjust involves opening the fork up, dropping in (or removing) a spacer IF POSSIBLE and putting them back together again.
i would have THOUGHT it would be a piece of piss on revs.

it would hold the max travel down to whatever you wanted, but obviously would not be adjustable on the fly

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-how-to-adjust-travel-on-a-rockshox-trail-fork--26840/

this is a pretty delicate job. your going to have to be be blaaaady careful.
if your not confident, it might be worth sending them off to someone who is.

the theory is simple though and it s dooable if you have the time and patience to do it properly

there is no bushing adjustment. 😕 (guessing you actually mean something you can't quite explain)
it is perfectly possible to shorten travel (and overall length of the fork) on an air or coil fork.

So do 150 forks always go as long as 150mm?

Ie, is it not possible to keep the same range or travel but have it a little bit lower down as it were?

I'd be sending them off to TF tuned forks and shox to have the range of travel lowered down by 10mm.

I'm going to ring them tommorow, no probs if nobody knows.

Thanks for the help all!

Tim

is it not possible to keep the same range or travel but have it a little bit lower down as it were?

if you send 150mm revs off to TF (or do it yourself) and reduce them by 10mm, you will have 140mm forks.

you can add those 10mms all you like (pretty much)

you cannot lower the front of the bike, and maintain the 150mm of travel (other than putting a skinny tyre, or 24" wheel on)

...and you wouldn't want to as it would handle sh*t

If forks bottom out, they reach the bottom end of thier travel range.

So it seem's logical to ask if the bottom can be lowered at the same time as the max being lowered as well, so it's the same travel range but lower down.

Not quite sure why there's a lego face palm? 🙂

I was wondering if there was something which can be changed to alter the lower travel level as well as the upper one.

Tim

go for it! you'll also be adding a pretty effective front brake when it does.

I think I may have got the wrong end of the stick regarding bottom out and lower range of travel.

Will ask TF turned shox and see what they say about keeping the travel range and lowering it by ten mm, i'm sure i've heard it possible somewhere.

Let all the wind out of your fork, then push them down, then let the rest out (what you have just compressed) and you will see how little you have to play with. The bottom out bumper protects the seals, crown, arch etc etc.