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Does anyone know how to remove the spacer from a hope Pro 5
I need to remove it so that I can screw in the retaining ring for the disc brake. On the front I could just pull it out, screw in the ring and then push it's back in after.
Does the rear pull out the same? It seemed very stiff but do I just need to give it a bit more ooph?
Just pull the end cap, bit of a wiggle perhaps, maybe if you're feeling brave a set of mole grips or a vice.
Yeah they just pull out, friend says you can walk the endcap out using the axle slightly inserted into it, though I've yet to try this method, & have just ended up using mole grips previously in frustration.. or if you have slide hammer the small bit might fit it? (basically a Unior Hub Genie )
Bought one and while ago and the shop ordered the version with the wrong freehub, when I pointed this out the lad in the workshop pulled the endcap off by hand and swapped them in about 30 seconds
I know you don't always need it, but that hub genie looks like a great bit of kit rather than using pliers or grips. I might have to suggest one of those for fathers day!!
grab and pull. Agree that pliers may make a mark, but in reality you won't see them that often (so pliers if really stuck!)
pliers with a thin bit of rubber/latex over
Or get a bench vice with soft jaws, gently grip the end cap in them with the hub facing up and then hold the rim pull directly up.
If it's being stubborn try a 'rolling' motion to work the cap loose then pull directly up again.
The extra leverage of holding the rim or tyre tends to make cracking them loose a bit easier.
It's how we deal with stubborn ones in the workshop.
Always makes me laugh thinking of the time my mate had been fuming and struggling to get an endcap off for some time when I just turned up and popped it off in 2 seconds, he always gets mad when his girlfriend or I bring it up, it really is bizarre how hard it is to come off sometimes then just I slightly different approach and it pops off with ease, I'll never understand it.
I don't have a hope pro 5 but I've found wrapping a bit of innertube around end caps can give the grip required to pull it off, normally with some wiggling.
Hiya,
Bitter experience of these. They are stiff to pull out, but they do. I actually brought a tool to do it in the end.
They re expensive but work. Once out and you discover Hope assemble stuff with no grease, then they pull out easier. On that note, check you free wheel on these hubs, mine had no oil or grease inside and got gummed up very quickly with corrosion. I also put a space in whilst I was at it because I found my cassette wasn't tightening, even though the online guides said you didn't need one, this is probably why my hub was pretty knackered inside, after only 8 months. Now mine is service how I want it, it runs lovely.
BR
JeZ
Do you need to take it off because the disc lockring physically won’t fit over it, or because you can’t get the tool in to fit the lock ring?
If it’s the latter, you know you can get Centerlock lock rings designed for thicker axles that use a bottom bracket spanner? Shimano SM-HB20.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JXNTVHI?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Hope also do an external one, if you want colour matched.
Thanks everyone for the advice. I will try that this evening...
Regarding the reason why I want to remove this, I have the external Shimano rings at the moment and the gap especially at the front is absolutely massive meaning it. On the left hand side you can see the seal of bearing. Now I've used the rings that use the cassette tool - The gap between the axle and the hub is now a lot smaller and I'm hoping a lot less gunk will get in there.
I'll put leather around some mole grips and work it out 🙂 The front ones come out by hand only
@quentyn, remember my advice about the freehub, nothing wrong with the build quality, it's the assembly that should worry you. Please regrease lightly, else the freehub will stop locking. After 8 months, mine failed, took it apart, to find a complete lack of grease...
JeZ
@jezzep thank you for the advice. Can I just confirm where I need to put the grease? Do I need to disassemble to put the grease in? Or just squirt a load in
Watch the hope video. You don't need much grease
Same principle for the pro 5
For the end-cap, if you grease the internal o-ring it will be a lot easier to remove next time.
@quentyn, sorry busy weekend. Follow the guide as above. The springs will be pretty gummed up by now, if they were like mine. I cleaned mine with degreasant and brake disk cleaner. I then reassembled with a combination of light grease and oil to ensure they weren't overgreased to the point they would gum up again, but more so, to stop the corrosion of the paw spring clips and their internal faces. I then smeared a very light amount of grease on the hub serrations to reduces corrosion there too. Finally assembled but also greasing the plastic seal and aluminium cover too. I'll probably dissemble again, just before winter. In all of this, what annoyed me the most, is Hope hadn't assembled the hub with any grease or oil for this part, and because these parts are steel, they corroded and hence stopped working altogther, with a wheel less than a year old...
BR
JeZ