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I am running a SunRace 11-50 with an XT mech. It seems t be going though the teenage years and being a little temperamental.
I have played with the B screw - which does have an effect.
The rear mech changes up okay, but then is sluggish to change down - esp between the 2nd largest cog and the third largest.
I realise I am probably running over the Shimano recommendations - but as it is on a 1x11 it is within the tooth difference range.
Oddly, turning over the clutch mechanism makes the changing much smoother / precise.
Is this just me - or normal?
How old is the mech. The clutch mechanism can get a bit tired and can need a lube and a clean. It's pretty easy to do, and is pretty satisfying as well.
Plenty of how-to's on YouTube
I've always found it more finicky/clunky setting up with clutch on. I tend to run with it off these days, as my riding style/location doesn't cause problems with chain retention.
Obviously, I could just be bad at setting up indexing, though. 🙂
When it's set really stiff you can feel the resistance in the up changes at the lever, particularity when shifting up to the biggest cogs on high range (>42t) cassettes.
Some bikes and setups need a lot of resistance some don't!
Assuming you have no SH/old components and your hanger is straight (you checked it with an alignment tool), sticking on down shifts is usually down to cable resistance (old or damaged cable) but incorrectly set b-tension and chain length can add to the problem! IME some 1x drivetrains need quite exacting setup, especially with the larger 50t + cassettes to function well. 42t and lower are easier to get right!
The clutch itself shouldn't cause an issue if set up ok and in good working order.
Always index your gears with the clutch off (if your mech has an on/off lever). Once you get perfect shifting, then pop the clutch on and play with the tension until you get a good balance between smooth shifting / shifter thumb lever resistance / chain tension.
If you are still having issues then, as above, check much hanger alignment / b screw / drivetrain wear / service clutch / replace cables if old and worn, as necessary.
Some of this will come down to personal preference and riding style e.g. an XC rider riding moderate terrain where there is a lower risk of dropping the chain, and who shifts gears a lot might want to dial down the tension for lighter shifting. An enduro rider may want to dial on more clutch tension without the increased effort needed at the thumb lever causing too much issues.
I have never , ever dropped a chain on the FlareMax - so let me go and have a play...
Thanks
Just came here to say to check aligment. I think long mechs and big cassettes can A) exaggerate even the slightest mis-aligment in your mech hanger and B) I think they can cause it!
I've never had as many issues with indexing as I've had with my GRX 11-40 setup on the gravel bike. Regular rides where I come back missing gears and all it takes is re-aligning.
Another vote to check alignment with the correct tool. You could get away with a good eyeball with 8-9spd 34t cassettes, but 11-12spd 50t cassettes are much more fussy.
I find even brand new hangers need a tweak, probably due to paint etc on the frame or average tolerances.