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I've got some new dt swiss rims to fit. They came with phr washers and alloy squorx nipples. I don't like alloy nipples.
Just wondering if is ok to build using brass, and whether they need to be dt special sqorx ones?
Here it says something about the washers and nipples having a specially designed interface, but I think it's probably bollocks
Ideally you want PHR nipples, which would be the squorx ones or DT make regular style too. You can also use any nipple of course... Just don't expect the eyelets to last quite as long before they crack as you'll focus the pressure in a smaller area, but its not night and day and either will last a good while.
FWIW Squorx nipples are excellent and if you get the tool so easy to build with too. DT do a tool for a power screwdriver/drill that makes life even easier again. if you're going to do more than a pair.
Sorry, can't answer the PHR question, but can vouch for good quality alloy nipples, I built some gravel/CX wheels with Sapim alloy nipples and Sapim spoke washers, borrowed a spoke tension meter so have the spokes tightened to the max tension the rim will allow (1300Nm if I remember correctly).
Only concession I made to alloy nipples was using a bit of copper anti-seize, because why not.
Wheels are just over a year old now, have taken a bit of a beating and a lot of muddy miles, no seizing, no cracked nipples, still running perfectly true (the only reason I know the nipples haven't seized is because I re-dished the rear wheel slightly).
I think a lot of the horror stories about alloy nipples are based on cheap nipples or uncoated bare alloy nipples or something.
A Brake rotor bolt with the head filed down fits the squarx nipples.
Thanks all. I compared the squorx to a standard brass nipple and there is a difference - squorx has a more pronounced chamfer.
Maybe I'll give them a go.
In exactly the same situation. I bought some DT Brass Squorx from eBay. “The Spoked Wheel” was the seller. Life is too short to scrimp on stuff like that for a few quid when it is available. It’s not like it’s an easy to swap thing either.
I’ve learnt the hard way with wheels over the last couple of years.
Ouch just looked on eBay £24 for brass silver nipples to do a pair of 28 hole rims
Give them a try, it's free, just remember to get them fitted and slightly tightened quick, nothing worse than a PHR washer floating about in the rim!
As for other choices, i honestly wouldn't think of it, i use squorx for all now, the tool costs a bit, but is excellent to use and allows you to uniformly tighten at the start and throughout.
Yeah, think I'm going to risk using the alloy squorx I've got (against my better judgement!)
Seems a bit silly to spend £24 mitigating a problem that may not happen. I can always swap them out later if I need to.
Also not much going on at the moment so I'm quite looking forward to a bit of wheelbuilding this afternoon
Got mine for £16. Squorx, Brass, silver. Have you got your quantities right?
Edit - for 40, ie for one 32 hole rim
Guess yours is for a pair!
Ok built one of the wheels this afternoon using the alloy squorx. They do go together really nicely. I used a rotor bolt attached to my drill to wind them in - loads better than screwdriver.
Mashed a couple of the nipples with my spoke key in final adjustments (plenty spare so replaced them). I think I need a better spoke key.
DT make a driver tool, which makes building wheels a doddle (they do one that goes in the drill and has a depth stop). They also make a nipple wrench for truing up.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tools/dt-swiss-proline-nipple-wrench-for-hidden-torx-nipples/
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tools/dt-swiss-proline-spoke-nipple-wrench-red/
The alloy squorx nipples aren't that bad,and you can buy brass ones. If you want to use normal nipples just use Sapim, they have the exact same seat shape as the squorx, whereas normal DT nipples have a much flatter shape as you have seen.