[Closed] Do I need to take a link out of my chain? Chain length question.

I’d add an extra link, try it and if the chain is too slack on the smallest sprocket, take it out. Re-adding a link if the chain is too short is a ball-ache because of the peined-over pins which make the hole in the side plates too big once split.

Why would you want to join the chain before you’ve got a rear mech on? (Not being funny, genuine question!)

Why would you want to join the chain before you’ve got a rear mech on? (Not being funny, genuine question!)

You don't, it's just for getting the correct length.  It's much easier to do when not pulling against a derailleur spring.  Took me 20 years to learn that 🙁

I’d add an extra link,

That's what I would do too

leffeboy

You don’t, it’s just for getting the correct length. It’s much easier to do when not pulling against a derailleur spring

Yep, this is how I read you should do it on the park tool website. Once you have the right length you thread it through the derrailleur and join.

And thanks - I'll join it with the master link and see how it goes - which is what I think you mean. I don't have any additional links if you actually mean put in a further link and then join with the master link!

Why would you want to join the chain before you’ve got a rear mech on? (Not being funny, genuine question!)

Me too - not sure of the logic of this one.

My method these days - bike in the smallest (as in least teeth) sprocket at the back and smallest chainring at the front (assuming there is more than one). The correct chain length is the maximum number of complete chainlinks that still has the cage arm under tension and moved forwards from its stop.

edit -

You don’t, it’s just for getting the correct length. It’s much easier to do when not pulling against a derailleur spring. Took me 20 years to learn that 🙁

nah, bobbins to that. My way is betterer and never had any issue 'pulling against a derailleur spring'. My method above only has the merest touch on tension.

Back in the old (probably road only) days it was bike in top gear and adjust chain length until the axle and two jockey wheels were in a straight line. It worked back then, still not quite sure how!

Yeah, back in the old days of 3 front rings and however many on the rear, it was easier to use the ‘big ring-big cog + however many links’ method. Now its easier to just measure using the rear mech position. If the spring is an issue, zip tie the mech to the chainstay. I find it easier this way anyway.
(convert appears to agree 😊)

From the OP's picture, I'd cut one full link off the end.

What convert says. Measure it with the mech on and in the smallest sprocket. If that doesn't give enough chain for the granny ring then the mech isn't the right one anyway.

I've used http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/bike/chain_length/chainlengthcalc.html for several years on my fat bike, hybrid and road bike.

I’ve always used this method (about halfway down the page “chain length” section) with no issues at all

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html

If a hardtail and a 1x system, stick mech on, thread chain through and put chain on biggest rear cog.
Mech should be almost fully stretched at that - stretched and then add 1 full link to chain.
That only works on a hardtail as the chain length doesn't change depending on suspension travel.
That keeps the chain as tight as it can be without having undue chain slap.
Full suspension is still something I'm trying to work out but that technique but with 2 full links seems to be working but always proves difficult to cycle the travel when holding the chain!

Can you please help me with whether I need to take a link out

What did the manual for the rear mech say? It'll vary depending on speed and brand these days (the old big big + 2 doesn't hold true since 11 speed)

Also you need to take out some links even for that method as you've 4 or 5 extra links there - links are quite literally the pins which link the plates of the chain together.