So, have built up a FS bike with parts from my 29er HT, so currently swapping wheels and forks over. But now have the funds to look at another set of wheels and another fork.
The HT frame is non boost. FS frame is boost. But the wheels (rear with spacers) work fine. Looking for lightly used bargains, should I just focus on boost or can I get more choice/value by looking for non boost too? Do I really need boost forks and wheels?
I think the only noticeable benefit of boost forks is the extra tyre clearance.
So, I've got a non boost Fox 36 on my full sus and tyre clearance has been an issue when I couldn't fit a 2.5 Maxxis someone gave me which was a pain as I only found out after I'd fitted the tyre and filled it with sealant....
Yes, more value to be had in non-boost, but with a degree of inconvenience and increasing incompatibility with other people's kit.
Are you keeping the hardtail as well?
Is it worth keeping some ability to swap between them should you break something?
Exactly how you acheive this is going to be dependent on what hubs/adaptors, whether you would want to keep the chainline/cassette location the same and probably other factors.
Are you keeping the hardtail as well?
Is it worth keeping some ability to swap between them should you break something?
Yes, keeping the HT, but would like to get to the point they can both be built up as two full bikes, as swapping is a faff.
The non boost Pikes I have currently have just enough clearance for 29x2.6 (seems like the Fox 36 mentioned above would be too tight?), although a bit more clearance for mud would be good.
Presume if I go boost, I have to boost the chainset too?
Presume if I go boost, I have to boost the chainset too?
just the chainring (usually).
some people find a non boost chainring to be beneficial if you use the climbing gears a lot on tech terrain as less chance of it derailling/dropping down when you backpedal. Tradeoff is slightly worse chainline in the top gear.
If you aren't too concerned about my mix-and-match wheel swapping idea just get a boost fork and boost wheels front and rear, will keep their value better.
Personally I’d go for a boost fork and front wheel for the mud clearance as mentioned above. My non boost Yari with a 2.6” hillbilly (650b) was too tight to run a proper mudguard. My boost Pike fits a bigger 2.6” Mary through with one of those huge gopping RRP Proguards and still a bit of a gap.
Swapping a wheel between boost and non-boost is a faff if you’re using spacers - either having to space out the rotor or keep redishing the wheel if the adapter is just on the right hand side (ala Hope).
On the rear I probably would be less bothered - although spacing out a non boost hub for boost is a compromise I think. Either spacers both sides that can fall out - plus I think spacing the rotor as well. Or one big one on one side and either the cassette not being where it would be on a boost hub or having to massively space out a rotor etc.
So on balance I’d go full boost and move the spaced out non boost ones back to the hardtail.
On the rear I probably would be less bothered – although spacing out a non boost hub for boost is a compromise I think. Either spacers both sides that can fall out – plus I think spacing the rotor as well. Or one big one on one side and either the cassette not being where it would be on a boost hub or having to massively space out a rotor etc.
it depends....
I have a hope 142 hub in the rear of a 148 bike. The spacers either side are replacement end caps, so wont fall out. Although its a 30 second swap with either plyers or strong fingers.
As its spacing both sides there is no redishing needed.
For me there was enough adjustment in the post mounts that i didnt need to do the disk spacing.
Of course if I had this wheel, and a 148 wheel to swap between I'd have to fiddle with the mech limit screws every time which would be horrific.
You don't need a boost chainset/chainring, a standard one should work fine but the chainline might be slightly less optimal
I went through this earlier this year. Moved stuff over from a non boost ht to a boost fs frame.
The answer is it depends.
My ht has a boost chain line supposedly even though it was 135qr (last fast forward). The wheel is dished to move the chain line out even though it’s not a boost hub. It was fine with any old cranks.
Moved that wheel to my new boost frame (aether9) with spacers both on the nds and I needed to get boost cranks because even a 30t chainring on non boost cranks just grazed the frame.
I ran boost forks with spacers from the outset so no mud room issues.
