[Closed] Do I need 160mm of travel?

No, you do not need one but they are nice to have.

I have gone from mid travel (130mm)for around 6 years to 160mm for 2 1/2 years and then back to mid travel again, as I just didn't need the 160mm. However, it was nice to have.

Pedal efficiency of 160mm bikes is improving year on year with this travel being the current Enduro darling, it just depends if you want to ride around the Surrey Hills on a magic carpet and only get the best of it a few times a year.

My Covert was a lot of fun while I had it but I did feel a little like Ace Ventura in the monster truck scene a lot of the time.

The massive difference in 160mm forks tends to be how stiff they are rather than the travel tbh. Point them down stuff and you'll find the bike WILL go where you point it, rather than perhaps get defelcted so easily

but honestly, it's your bike, you want 160mm forks, and the bike will take it; just go for it.

I have to agree. If there is one aspect of my Covert that is truly missed its the Fox 36 sturdiness up front.
I have even been looking at getting the 140mm Fox 36's for my current.

What's wrong with the Commencal? It should be more than capable in the Alps.

simply, Yes. modern 160mm bikes are just as easy to pedal as most trail bikes and capable of a whole lot more should you go somewhere that requires more travel (alps etc)

Do it.

Are you keeping the Meta? Big capable bike that, kind of in the same niche as your standard 160mm #Rig, with the right build.

I ride my 160mm bike everywhere and enjoy it. Go for it. It climbs every bit as well as shorter travel bikes I tested.

As I noted before, I was surprised how easy I found pedalling the spesh enduro around Pitch Hill last year on a demo

Still reckon stumpy/camber evos are more suited for what you say you do

What do you like doing in SH - do you blast Northern Monkey, Thick and Creamy type runs or Evian, Secret Santa, Summer Madness types?

Do you 'need' it? No, of course not, judging by what you use it for, a decent 130/140 trail bike would probably be ideal.

160mm bikes are good, really good now. I have one I use for everything (which includes riding in my local woods, Surrey Hills, racing enduro & DH, did a summer in Whistler on, will do 3 weeks in Canada again this year & a few weeks in the Alps).

If I didn't race though, I might be less inclined to have one, something like a 5010 might become my only bike.

The reality is a 5010 could do everything above I want it to, but need & want are very different things.

That 29" Commencal is a big, heavy brute of a bike, don't confuse it with a good, high end 130/140 smaller wheeled bike, they will be very, very different.

160 not needed for trails and most else, Id run 140 - 150 max but must be 34mm fork

The 130 is a cracking bike, looking at them myself. Bronson 150mm rider. Tight flowy trails my 2010 Zesty 140mm is great fun but as above the 32 Fox is way out preformed by the Fox or Pike 34 up front.

Took the Bronson 150mm to Canada this year, wasn't under gunned on black diamond and honestly cant think 160mm would have helped. Its about the right geometry and how you can throw your bike about.

Maybe more important if you want to go big, switch your tyres to say DHF and DHR Minions and you will see a bigger difference than 10 mm of travel.

i'm sure i'll be shouted at, but you did ask...

Pro down'illers have/use around 200mm of travel. If you can confidently say that you're 80% as Gnarly as they are, hitting things 80% as big and fast, then yes, you'll probably need/use 160mm travel.

me, i'm a slow, useless mincer. i don't even need that much travel when i'm racing Dh.

Not shouted at but I don't think that works- pro downhillers are a bit good, they ride pretty differently and build their bikes differently to most riders, but any dobber can make use of travel.

Get out and ride some of them. See what suits you.

i probably agree, just think it's an alternative way to think about it.

i tried to get on with 200mm Dh bikes, but i needed to run the suspension *very* soft to use all the travel, the bike felt awful, everywhere.

That 29" Commencal is a big, heavy brute of a bike

Sounds perfect for the alps then.

Note:- The RS Yari on the Whyte is 35mm with Boost and bolt through, so should be plenty stiff enough, if you go that route.

Doesn't matter if I'm on my hardtail, 120 full or 140 full suspension I'm always the middle of my riding group.

As much as I'd like a new bike, its really not going to make much difference to my day to day riding.

THe old want and need.

I have a camber and and enduro to do similar types of riding as the OP, but thats because I can rather than need. If I could only have 1 bike then something in the 140/150 travel range would be enough for everything unless your going to BPW and the Alps in full stormtrooper mode to do DH rather than lift assisted AM riding.

Don't forget it's not always about the travel, it's also about the different angles that usually come with it. You might not 'need' 160mm, but the often slacker head angle and longer length of a 160mm bike could well be more noticeable and to your tastes (or not). I reckon 140mm on a 650b wheels is fine for most (jumpless) trails in the Alps, but the angles of a 160mm bike might be welcome if you like riding super-steep stuff.

i err on the side of less travel, would rather save my energy/get up the climbs faster so i have more energy for the downs, get more downs done, make the flat bits more fun too, more fun, more of the time.

AT the surrey hills, if wanting to do a proper loop and keep things moving, i'll take the 120mm 29er (still do fly tipper/northern monkey on it), if i'm wanting to session pitch or some of the bigger hucks to flat i'll use the 160mm bike (makes stuff like yogurt pots, supernova etc etc too much hard work to get/maintain speed to make it fun).

If you're on a budget, then a longer travel bike will probably be heavier, have less good components and be less fun that spending the same money on a shorter travel version. Lots of travel isn't really about jumps (if you need a 160mm bike to do a jump, you might want to look at trying to land a bit cleaner.... 😉 it's about being able to push, at speed through rough surfaces, such as roots, rocks, dips etc, and to maintain stability and grip whilst doing so.

In general, the Surrey Hills are pretty soft / smooth, compared to the rockier bits of the UK (Peaks, Lakes, North Wales etc) so you certainly don't need a 160mm bike to ride there.

But, if your do-it-all bike has a good budget, and you want to ride it year round, and potentially worldwide, then a modern 160mm bike is a great thing!

(The only reason i can see for not getting one, is if you want to actually race it, as it WILL be a small penalty for XC racing, compared to a shorter travel bike)

Nowt wrong with what you have, I've done the Alps before on 100mm front and back and it was fine. Done it on more but still had as much fun on the less travel

TBH mate, I've ridden the Commencal AM29 for a year and I've also test ridden a few other 'bigger' travel bikes, IMO the AM29 destroys most other bikes in places like BPW, it just batters it's way through there with absolute ease, the rocks even move out of the way if you tell them there's a Meta AM coming 🙂

It's an amazingly capable machine I have to say.

I have regrets often about selling mine.

Even worse is the fact I'm off to BPW in a few weeks and the bloke I sold it to is coming with me ... on it !

I have the same bike 😉
Use it mainly at CYB and its not often I'll use all the travel there.
Been to Antur and BPW,it was fine on the blues but used all the travel on the reds.
For the riding you do,i would say 150mm is more than enough.
I saw a rider at BPW on the AM and he'd put 150mm pikes on his and absolutely loved it 😀 rear was stock,rode mostly uplifts though.

Decent geometry > travel.

The Whyte t130 has bang on geometry. 160mm of travel is only really needed if you're hitting big hucks, or you're smashing really long bouldery fast descents.

I ride Inners DH trails, golfie, etc regularly, and I don't need 160mm of travel at all. What's really useful is decent geometry, and unfortunately the vast majority of bikes with decent geometry are on 160mm travel bikes.

I'd venture that most are buying them for the same reason. We've all drank and 160mm Enduro bike Koolaid, and its good, but could be better.

The t130 has really good geometry. If someone made a 130mm travel bike with a 140mm Pike, and a 65 degree head angle, long reach, low Bb, and steep seat angle, I'd be all over it. And everyone else should be too.

Check out Konas offerings, they get it too, short travel, but great geometry.

And on the other side, why NOT have 160mm? You can always limit the travel if you don't want it, or ramp up the springing or damping if it's too plush!

20mm "extra travel" really hardly weighs anything (a lot of forks have the same length dampers/tubes in them that's just not used for the shorter travel variants. Now that suspension is so well controlled, i'm not really sure why you'd not have it??

2 years ago i converted my 140mm zesty into a 160mm spec with a Spicy shock link, ccBDair and pikes. I kept the original parts so i could convert back for more XC duties, and....... yup, not even got them back out the spares box once in 2 years!

The Banshee Spitfire is an efficient 140mm frame but has the geometry of a 160mm frame and is designed for a 160mm fork - very versatile, from flatter tighter singletrack to steep tech or fast rock battering. Arguably one of the best full-sus platforms, with a progressive leverage curve that gives great grip and small bump sensitivity, support when you're pumping and ramps up strongly when you hit stuff hard - and pedals well without suffering from bad kickback or brake squat.

That versatility and the adjustable geometry and swappable dropouts makes it a great choice if you want a bike that'll handle everything you do now and many things you'll do in the future. Had mine two years and no plan to change it for a long time. 2016 version is just a little longer and lower, so even better!

Wow, didn't expect that many replies so quickly - thanks folks - and thanks for the useful advice as always. 🙂

I should point out that whilst I can get round the black trails at CYB/Afan and Glentress, I'm on blues/mincing the reds at Antur Stiniog. I'd like to progress obviously but at 39 crashing now hurts.

dragon - Member

What's wrong with the Commencal? It should be more than capable in the Alps.

Nothing at all. I'm just in the lucky position to be able to get a new bike just now. The downside (#firstworldproblem) is that this bike will be the last new one for a while. 🙂

Northwind - Member

Are you keeping the Meta? Big capable bike that, kind of in the same niche as your standard 160mm #Rig, with the right build.

Yep, keeping the Meta, if only as a winter bike or one for my mates to use.

teamhurtmore - Member

What do you like doing in SH - do you blast Northern Monkey, Thick and Creamy type runs or Evian, Secret Santa, Summer Madness types?

All sorts I guess - start on Holmbury, on to Pitch (T trails, Curly Wurly etc - not the steep stuff (Root of all Evil?)) and then to Secret Santa. Sometimes I'll venture on to Northern Monkey and Charlie Bronson but lately time hasn't been on my side. Usually avoiding the jumps. I miss Evian.

Hob Nob - Member

That 29" Commencal is a big, heavy brute of a bike, don't confuse it with a good, high end 130/140 smaller wheeled bike, they will be very, very different.

Thank you, I was unsure *how* different they would be as the numbers don't look too different (I know they are different but it's hard to appreciate a small change has a big effect). 🙂

ahwiles - Member

i tried to get on with 200mm Dh bikes, but i needed to run the suspension *very* soft to use all the travel, the bike felt awful, everywhere.

This was something I'd never considered. I usually run my suspension quite soft too.

deanfbm - Member

AT the surrey hills, if wanting to do a proper loop and keep things moving, i'll take the 120mm 29er (still do fly tipper/northern monkey on it), if i'm wanting to session pitch or some of the bigger hucks to flat i'll use the 160mm bike ([b]makes stuff like yogurt pots, supernova etc etc too much hard work to get/maintain speed to make it fun[/b]).

Ah, that would be a problem. I usually use Yog Pots and Supernova as warm up/down.

weeksy - Member

Even worse is the fact I'm off to BPW in a few weeks and the bloke I sold it to is coming with me ... on it !

I know. 😉

rickon - Member

Decent geometry > travel.

The Whyte t130 has bang on geometry. 160mm of travel is only really needed if you're hitting big hucks, or you're smashing really long bouldery fast descents.

I like rock gardens but I can't imagine hitting long bouldery descents at such a pace that I'd worry the suspension. I reckon my bottle would go well before that. Did Nan Bield, the first rocky descent was a chore. 🙁

rickon - Member

What's really useful is decent geometry, and unfortunately the vast majority of bikes with decent geometry are on 160mm travel bikes.

Says in one sentence what usually takes me an essay, nice one.

i tried to get on with 200mm Dh bikes, but i needed to run the suspension *very* soft to use all the travel, the bike felt awful, everywhere.

I used to worry about getting all the travel from my 66s, and they were soft, they dived a lot. But then I stopped worrying about travel and set them up to be in the right position and it's vastly better.

I might only get 130mm of travel, but it's completely different to a 130mm bike.

Why not get a 140 travel bike that will take a 160 fork, can then pop a 160 fork in for Alps or other more extreme venues? Not quite a 160 bike, but as you keep the wheels on the ground it might be another option to consider.

Oh lol. I see.

It's you who has my bikelol

I used to be in the 150/160mm burly bike camp, hit things, bounced through convinced myself it's what I needed.
Now my main bike has 140mm at the back (still got 160mm up front and the fork is in the frame guidelines) and it works just as well. The suspension platform works well, it's built around 27lb without making any serious compromises and it's great fun to ride, back up in my old stomping ground of the Lakes and Peak last year it didn't let me down, I didn't want more travel or need it. Riding around Moab and uplifted stuff was perfect. It's the bike I'd take for a singletrack week in the Alps, race the mega and stuff like that.

Sometimes it's not about what you have but how you use it 😉

Do I need 160mm travel?

99% of the time, no.

But that 1% of the time when you need it, you [i]really[/i] need it

Now I know who you are, I'm guessing a lot of answers will arrive quickly at BPW on the 29th.

You'll learn that the AM29 is capable and if you choose you can also ride some of the blacks and that may also answer whether you can do it on anything at all.

over the last few years I've gone from 160 > 140 > 120mm travel bikes.

if you believe strava I'm faster than I've ever been.

geometry is more important than travel.

My two cents: Get the Whyte, it'll be great for the Surrey Hills.

Then sell the meta 29 and buy a 26in freeride machine for the Alps and uplift duties, you get a hell of a lot for your money now.

As I can only afford one bike it's got to cover all bases as I do uplifts, XC (local stuff) and hopefully a couple of Alps trips. I much prefer going down than up so the ups are just a means to an end for me.
I don't 'need' 190mm but I like having it and the bike climbs almost as well as the shorter travel bikes I've had/tried.
I can slap a pair of DC's on for the Alps and have a really versatile bike.

edit: I've ridden quite a bit of the South Downs on it too.

mikewsmith - Member

Sometimes it's not about what you have but how you use it

Boomboom! I try to convince the laydeez that but they just politely smile and shake their heads. 🙁 😀

weeksy - Member

Now I know who you are, I'm guessing a lot of answers will arrive quickly at BPW on the 29th.

You'll learn that the AM29 is capable and if you choose you can also ride some of the blacks and that may also answer whether you can do it on anything at all.

That Commie is so good I haven't ridden my BMC since I bought it and if you remember rightly, the BMC was only 5 months old when you sold me the Commie. Still can't help looking at something newer and shinier. 😀

chakaping - Member

My two cents: Get the Whyte, it'll be great for the Surrey Hills.

Then sell the meta 29 and buy a 26in freeride machine for the Alps and uplift duties, you get a hell of a lot for your money now.

I'm really leaning towards the Whyte now. Why am I considering spending £2k on a bike I'll only use two weeks a year?

Can't believe I'm asking this but what is a freeride bike? I thought/think it's a DH but STBC.

Out of interest, I've read about swapping forks for something bigger - how do you know what the frame can cope with? I assume just going from 130mm to 160mm will end in tears?

🙂

It all depends on what you call the alps too, Morzine breaking bumps and DH tracks yeah something bigger, Les arcs techy singletrack trail bike wins.
For the most part I rode harder stuff in the Lakes than the alps, out there it just goes on a bit longer.

sofabear - Member

Can't believe I'm asking this but what is a freeride bike? I thought/think it's a DH but STBC.

you'll get different answers, but imho...

Dh bikes are race bikes, weight is a big consideration, anything more than 'strong enough' is overkill. 600g rims on a Dh bike? people will point and laugh.

Freeride bikes are bombproof tanks, that look like Dh bikes, sort of (there are geometry differences).

Don't forget, the perception is that a 29er is 'more' than the sum of it's parts in travel, 130mm on a AM geometry I'd say is easily 160mm on a trailsy/AM 26er.

So unless you're going to go for a trailsy AM 29er on 160, is it really worth it?

I went from a am29 to a 160mm 650b bike. The meta was good, but I much prefer the 160mm bike.
I dont know whether it was the wheel size change, the extra travel or a bike costing twice the amount, but its better suited to my needs.

Try and ride a few. Buy the bike you want. The choice is bewildering.

OP the 160 bike will be perfect for the Alps not least as in your head you'll feel better with the extra travel. For most of us the most important bike feature for the Alpa is good brakes (180 rotor fromt amd rear). Also huge range oitnthere too from bike oarks full of ruts, bumps and carpets of roots to relatively smooth natural back country trails inc sections with hike a bike and quite a bit of pedalling.

FWIW worth I ride my BFe in Surrey Hills more than my Covert as it makes the trails I ride more challenging with the back end skipping around and after a few crashes I am only doing little jumos / pops (52 too old to have too many crashes). Sometimes I forget to switch the sektors on the BFe to 150 for the dewxcent somride on 110 and you kniw what I'm not dead 🙂

One final,word, spend £200 with @jedi or Nathan at UK Bike Skills, you'll get far more out of that than switching the bike and domit before you go to the Alps.

[quote=jambalaya ]
One final,word, spend £200 with @jedi or Nathan at UK Bike Skills, you'll get far more out of that than switching the bike and domit before you go to the Alps.

there we go. i was beginning to wonder if STW was broken..

Freeride bike is just the old-fashioned word for a 180mm travel mini-dh/Alps bike I suppose.

Usually 180mm travel both ends, single crown fork - sometimes but not always lighter than a DH bike, geometry usually making it a fair bit easier to pedal up fire roads or linking resorts in the Alps.

Here's the one I was riding, sort of sold now - but just to give you an idea what you can get for your money...
http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1878298/

jambalaya - Member

One final,word, spend £200 with @jedi or Nathan at UK Bike Skills, you'll get far more out of that than switching the bike and domit before you go to the Alps.

That's already on the to-do list, just waiting for a free weekend and some decent weather. 🙂

[img] [/img]
When I was younger this was free ride

now it's just mincing down a few jumps 😉

chakaping - Member

Freeride bike is just the old-fashioned word for a 180mm travel mini-dh/Alps bike I suppose.

Usually 180mm travel both ends, single crown fork - sometimes but not always lighter than a DH bike, geometry usually making it a fair bit easier to pedal up fire roads or linking resorts in the Alps.

Yah, practically nobody bought a Voltage or a Slopestyle to actually do freeride or slopestyle, they're just also good "mini dh" bikes

Do you need it - probably not.

I've recently sold my 160mm travel bike for a hardtail! I bought the Rune when I was doing a few uplift days, spending time at the local DH tracks as well as general trail riding. I only had one bike at the time and this seemed to cover all of the bases.

The lure of N+1 took hold and I ended up with a steel hardtail that I much preferred on my local trails - it was just more fun. The Rune was ace on bigger, steeper trails but with a new baby I just wasn't getting the chance to ride that sort of stuff. Both bikes went and I now have a 140mm Ti hardtail as my only bike. I don't feel like I've lost out - I'm still more or less where I was when compared to others that I ride with.

The Rune did climb amazingly well for a 160mm bike and was pretty darn slack. It handled the likes of Antur really well and was way more competent than I am on a bike. Personally, I'd focus more on your regular riding than the odd trip away (and how you actually ride - I think I thought I rode harder stuff than I actually do).

The t130 has really good geometry. If someone made a 130mm travel bike with a 140mm Pike, and a 65 degree head angle, long reach, low Bb, and steep seat angle, I'd be all over it. And everyone else should be too.

Isn't this more or less the Spitfire?

That's already on the to-do list, just waiting for a free weekend and some decent weather.

Bear in mind they're usually booked up months ahead (and I think they only coach Mon-Sat).

I've only briefly ridden my new hardtail but it feels much more like my full-sus than the hardtail it replaced. Why? Geometry! On paper it's ridiculously slack and low (it's a Bird Zero AM with -2 deg headset and 130mm fork) but full-sus bikes get lower and usually slacker once you're on them, whilst hardtails drop only a ittle and steepen a degree or two (depending on how hard you run the fork).

So it's zero travel at the back (hence the name), 130mm at the front and geometry when riding is similar to the latest long & low 6" bikes on the market (e.g. ~65.5 deg HA, ~300mm BB, ~460mm reach). Having a great fork makes a big difference too.

I'm not suggesting you get a hardtail instead of a full-sus but I do think that geometry far trumps amount of travel. And I think quality of suspension (damping, spring curve and resistance to unwanted flex) matters more than the amount of travel.

The t130 has really good geometry. If someone made a 130mm travel bike with a 140mm Pike, and a 65 degree head angle, long reach, low Bb, and steep seat angle, I'd be all over it. And everyone else should be too.

[i]Isn't this more or less the Spitfire?[/i]

Spitfire is 140 rear and most riders are running 150 or 160 up front - but you could certainly use a 140mm Pike with a -2 deg Works headset, which would lower the BB further, lengthen the reach, steepen the seat angle and take the static head angle down to 65 deg.

chiefgrooveguru - Member

but you could certainly use a 140mm Pike with a -2 deg Works headset, which would lower the BB further, lengthen the reach

-2 headset will be pretty reach neutral I think, I suspect it'll probably slightly reduce it overall- the headset itself moves the steerer backwards slightly and the slacker steerer angle also reduces reach. But the changes in angles will lower the front slightly which increases reach. but all in all, not very big deal

Good point! Taking 20mm off the A-C height would add about 10mm to the reach, whilst slackening the head tube -2 deg would add another 5mm - if the centre of the steerer stayed in the same place within the top of the head tube, which it doesn't, it moves rearwards. However it can only move rearwards by up to 8mm or the steerer tube would hit the inside of the head tube.

So a -2 deg headset on its own would shorten your reach fractionally (and a bit more if you run more spacers under the stem) but a shorter fork would more than compensate for that.

So geometry is the key, first point (with quality suspenders shortly thereafter).

One more question if I may please, the Whyte website says the Yari has the following head angle "67.0+0/-1" - does that mean the HA is variable or something?

I would always go 160mm if you plan the uplift days.

Have you considered getting the suspension tuned?

IF you spend most of your time on tame trails it makes sense to have a firm set up with blow through for crazy days.

Then when you are off to the Alps for a concentrated get the bike tuned to suit.

Once you get to know your local suspension guy it will become a much less costly exercise.

I reckon that if you are not racing then you'd have more fun on a shorter travel bike. It will be more lively/poppy.

Long travel bikes are great if speed is an important factor (racing) and you need to smash through stuff.

I'm in the process of looking at a shorter travel bike after demoing a 5010 at the weekend and having a blast on it.

I have an enduro 29er for racing and it's an incredible bike for going fast on, but for shits and giggles, shorter travel bikes are a blast.

Rickon is right about geometry (and fit) being the number one factor.

The downsides of a 160mm bike get smaller and smaller every year.

There's really not that much difference weight wise between a 1x 130/140 bike with Pikes and a 160 bike with same. They tend to not built up with much the same parts, and the angles aren't that different either.

Long travel bikes are great if speed is an important factor (racing) and you need to smash through

I think it varies from track to track and rider to rider - just two examples, Joe Barnes swaps between 140 and 160mm and Jared Graves between 127 and 152mm for racing the EWS. However both run 160mm (or possibly longer) forks.

I'm looking if there is a viable 180mm single crown fork option for my next AM bike!

Decision made, going for the Whyte. 🙂

Hmmmm. How much is that £800 meta to buy?

Look at what makes up the majority of your riding, not so much where you are riding. Is gravity taking up the majority of your riding time or are you pedalling? I suspect like most of us you spend more time pedalling so that would dictate my choice for one do it all bike.

Personally I have a 165mm FS, 140mm FS and a Hardtail 29er and while the bigger travel bike is modern and super efficient when pedalling it's still not as quick as the other two options over more flat single track and open trails where continuous pedalling is required to have the most amount of fun. Adding a coil with a switchable firmer second circuit helped but just the overall geometry, suspension curves and wheelbase all contribute to make it less efficient in these scenarios.

For UK riding a modern short travel bike like the Transition Scout or Santa Cruz 5010 v2 would be rarely out of its depth, quick over almost most types of terrain and great fun to ride. Dark horses for me would be the Trek Remedy 29er and Santa Cruz Tallboy v2 if the update rumours of its geometry and travel are true.

Transition Scout or Santa Cruz 5010 v2

geometry is more important than travel

mikeep - Member

I reckon that if you are not racing then you'd have more fun on a shorter travel bike. It will be more lively/poppy.

Can be but even then not necessarily... Like, ride an Orange Five 29, long travel (*) and clownwheels but it's full of snap and pop. (No crackle though). Some few big bikes manage to be both as capable as a long travel bike needs to be, and still involving and reactive and all that.

(* it's not a 160mm bike but it's in their class or maybe above)

ride an Orange Five 29, long travel (*) and clownwheels but it's full of snap and pop.

LOL 🙂

I have, it wasn't.

What shock was in it? Should possibly have added to that; I've ridden 2 and the tunes were different, the second one was pretty soggy. But with the right shock/tune, it's great.

maxtorque - Member
I'm looking if there is a viable 180mm single crown fork option for my next AM bike!

Lyrik!

Something I asked earlier but think got missed in the numerous responses was that the Whyte website says the Yari has the following head angle [b]"67.0+0/-1"[/b] - does that mean the HA is variable or something? 🙂

Maybe it refers to the fact that the head angle could change depending on which build you go for ie depending on which fork is fitted - different axle to crown lengths?

Ask Whyte for a definitive answer.

wilko1999 - Member

Maybe it refers to the fact that the head angle could change depending on which build you go for ie depending on which fork is fitted - different axle to crown lengths?

Could be. I think Whyte are still selling the T-130S with RS Revelations (though I'd guess they'll stop making that spec soon).

chakaping - Member

Ask Whyte for a definitive answer.

Just waiting for a response, sadly I'm too impatient at times, hence asking the forum. 🙂

And I though I was indecisive when it came to buying a bike for the Surrey Hills 😉

Perhaps you should wait for either the Freeborn (on Pitch) or the Cycle Works (Holmbury) days and get a really good feel for different bikes on the trails that you ride?

Worked for me - found I hated some bikes that got great reviews (including for ME, the Whytes) and vice versa. Horses for courses as they say.

Then you only have to decide which shop to support!!

teamhurtmore - Member

And I though I was indecisive when it came to buying a bike for the Surrey Hills 😉

Dude, I've actually been wakened up during the night thinking about this. #someprobsarenicetohave 🙂

teamhurtmore

Perhaps you should wait for either the Freeborn (on Pitch) or the Cycle Works (Holmbury) days and get a really good feel for different bikes on the trails that you ride?

Worked for me - found I hated some bikes that got great reviews (including for ME, the Whytes) and vice versa. Horses for courses as they say.

Then you only have to decide which shop to support!!

Never heard of the Cycleworks or Freeborn days. I only started riding the SH 18 months ago so missed them last year. Thanks for the tip though. 🙂

chakaping - Member

Ask Whyte for a definitive answer.

Definitive answer is:

"that it is the tolerance to which the frame head angle is made to".... I'm a bit too thick to work what that actually means. 😀

That was my first thought before I wrote the reply about the different axle to crown lengths. So basically they state it will be absolutely no greater than 67 degrees but could be as low as 66 degrees, depending on manufacturing variance

They're just being more honest than other manufacturers about it I guess?

Or someone has challenged them over a head angle in the past.

Very brief update. Went into my LBS on Saturday to look at a Whyte T-130s Yari. Looks absolutely stunning in the flesh and, IMO, a quality piece of kit. Everything just feels right.

The only fly in the ointment - the shop also had a G-160 for the same price so I'm going large on this occasion. 🙂