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These seem really common pedals. Ms B33KR has been running a set for a good few years and I've never touched them and they've got a load of movement on. (mine are pretty new). Before I strip them down any advice?
Official service kit is £25 with new bolts and the seals which never seem to stay in place and I guess you really need. Non OEM kits have just bearings and bushings.
However - DMR sell a tool for bushing extract/replace but their video shows the tool threading into something. How does it work? can you do the job without?
They also say you need a deep 8mm socket, but in the video it doesn't look like the nut you undo is deep at all?
On Nukeproof Horizon clipless there is a metal bush on the inner part of the pedal. Official tool for this looks to be a thread tap, which is what I also use. Screw in until it bites, then use a punch from the opposite side to drift it out.
No idea about DMR, but likely the same.
I've got a set of Nukeproof proton pedals to do as well (Ms B's other pedals). Nukeproof instructions also mention their own bushing tool for install and extract (what just looks like a regular tap of some kind). But also a 'Nukeproof pedal nut socket"
I just used whatever 1/4" drive socket fitted - 8mm or 9mm I think
I used to use Vault pedals, these days I use the composite V11 versions but the service kit is the same.
In my experience you have to be careful with the timing of the overhaul. If you leave it too late not only will the bushings require replacing but the axels will too. This is the reason I switched to using to V11, the cost of new axles and the service kit was more that the new V11s.
When I purchase a new set of pedals, I replace the brass bushes with an Igus bushes. The Igus ones never wear away the axels.
Tools I use as above.
The bushing tool makes the job really easy and also makes sure the new bushing is in the right spot and not mangled trying to bodge it in. If you have a couple of pairs of the pedals it’s worth it. Only thing with the socket is not being too thick walled to fit in the pedal body.
Also remember the different sides unscrew different ways. Don’t try to fit the left nut on the right pedal.
I had some vaults for years. The bushes always failed well before the bearings. I can't remember the bush diameter but I bought a few elsewhere and did them semi frequently. The bush tool worked well.
The seals never stayed put and eventually the axel replacement was the only option, even then they were a bit loose.
I now have hopes.
I’ve just done two sets.
WRT 8mm socket, some are too thick to fit and undo the axle retaining bolt. However this is easy to check, just undo the axle cap and check that your socket fits over the bolt and undoes it.
I’d suggest that unless you’ve got a very well stocked workshop the bushing tool is also vital.
Other than that it’s pretty straightforward.
Bushing can be removed with a ½" bolt or a blind bearing puller.
I bought a bag of Igus bushings (W300 maybe) and some shaft seals and they go a lot longer between services now.
I bought a cheap set of box spanners to undo the end nut. I didn’t need the bushing tool
But I’d say there are a terrible product for durability
But I’d say there are a terrible product for durability
So this forum would have you believe. On the other hand, I’ve only just replaced the bushings on mine after 10 years. Mine have been on long travel bikes and my E bike and have been faultless.
Fairly certain it was these
older ones lasted longer - or quality is a bit hit and miss. Recent pair I had lasted a few months before the bushings went. Replacement is simple enough with the correct DMR tool
Ok, so updating having done a service. It's really quick and easy. The tool helps remove/install the bushing but seems massively overkill really. Could have been a much smaller/lighter/simpler part.
My standard Halfords 8mm 1/4th socket fitted fine (although I don't have any way of fitting that to my 3/8 torque wrench that will do left handed threads)
That looks like the right seal - V12A V-ring type A seal for shaft sizes 11.5 - 12.5mm (VA12) can pick them up on eBay as well.
Definitely don't really need to replace the nut/washer/end cap every time (and the seals were probably reusable).
One of the axles had some pitting and still has a tiny bit of movement - will likely need to replace next time (or I could keep on top of servicing...)
Oh - and I'd missed that you're supposed to install the bushing with Loctite 641 (which I didn't have, used 638 so might never get this set out again)
I just replace the bushing. I'm not paying £25 for the kit given what it contains is about £1 in value, so found DU bushings to the same spec, more like a couple of quid for a few. Though they're metal instead of whatever DMR use (nylon?). They might wear the axle quicker but seem to be lasting okay.
I don't replace the seal or nut.
Socket for the nut, bearing puller to get the old bushing out, bushing tool I use for shocks works to push new in. Loads of grease on the axle.
Not used loctite on them. Is that on the nut?
I think £1 is a bit of low estimate - Igus bushings should cost a few £ each in small quantities (you can see the bulk prices on the IGUS site and in 100's they're still c1£ each) and by all accounts are the best to use, as should the bearings. . DMRs instructions say to put some loctite on the bushing.
That looks like the right seal - V12A V-ring type A seal for shaft sizes 11.5 - 12.5mm (VA12) can pick them up on eBay as well.
Looking at my own bike, pedals less than a year old, noticed that the bushings had worked their way out and that's what was causing the seals to be visible. Serviced them and found surprising amount of pitting on the axle given the dry conditions they've almost exclusively seen.
However, the seals I bought from the link above are NOT the right ones. Not the same shape as the DMR ones and don't look like they'd do the job. Any suggestions from anyone? Given the state of the grease internally I reckon these need frequent bushing replacement (with better/newer seals extending interval) but the bearings will last ages so the DMR kit doesn't make a lot of sense.
My only suggestion is to join all the rest of us who have a pair of DMR pedals in the shed that have dead internals... waiting for the day when someone offers an affordable servicing service for them, using longer life parts.
My only suggestion is to join all the rest of us who have a pair of DMR pedals in the shed that have dead internals... waiting for the day when someone offers an affordable servicing service for them, using longer life parts.
What do you ride instead? New to flats and the seemingly much higher maintenance requirements. Partners nukeproof seem just as bad with added joy of no service kit even being sold.
Crank brothers run on only bushings but have a grease port…
However, the seals I bought from the link above are NOT the right ones. Not the same shape as the DMR ones and don't look like they'd do the job.
The seals above are additional not replacements. Put them on the axle before fitting the body. They are shaft seals
What do you ride instead?
OneUp composite, and Hope F22... both just need a deep 8mm socket for servicing (although I've not serviced the Hopes).
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Helpful thread as I have three pairs of Vaults on my bikes (4+ years old) and never serviced, will begin with the pedal with no grease left
I’ll give those shaft seals a go too
Appreciate the comment above about the expense of decent bushings, but with 3 pairs of vaults to service are there any cheaper recommendations for genuine igus w300 bushings other than £9.70 eBay IGUS W300
However, the seals I bought from the link above are NOT the right ones. Not the same shape as the DMR ones and don't look like they'd do the job.
The seals above are additional not replacements. Put them on the axle before fitting the body. They are shaft seals
I don’t understand- where do they sit relative to the dmr seal?
Put them on the axle before you slide the body back on. They hold tight to the axle and run on the inner face of the pedal body.
Vaults & V12's both have the same internal thread for the end cap. The simple fix to worn bushes and bearings is to sacrifice an old end cap & fit it with a grease nipple. This allows all the accumulated grot to be forced out & replaced with fresh grease. DMR used to do the V8's with a grease port which extended the rebuild intervals. Sliding surfaces need lube !