These seem really common pedals. Ms B33KR has been running a set for a good few years and I've never touched them and they've got a load of movement on. (mine are pretty new). Before I strip them down any advice?
Official service kit is £25 with new bolts and the seals which never seem to stay in place and I guess you really need. Non OEM kits have just bearings and bushings.
However - DMR sell a tool for bushing extract/replace but their video shows the tool threading into something. How does it work? can you do the job without?
They also say you need a deep 8mm socket, but in the video it doesn't look like the nut you undo is deep at all?
On Nukeproof Horizon clipless there is a metal bush on the inner part of the pedal. Official tool for this looks to be a thread tap, which is what I also use. Screw in until it bites, then use a punch from the opposite side to drift it out.
No idea about DMR, but likely the same.
I've got a set of Nukeproof proton pedals to do as well (Ms B's other pedals). Nukeproof instructions also mention their own bushing tool for install and extract (what just looks like a regular tap of some kind). But also a 'Nukeproof pedal nut socket"
I just used whatever 1/4" drive socket fitted - 8mm or 9mm I think
I used to use Vault pedals, these days I use the composite V11 versions but the service kit is the same.
In my experience you have to be careful with the timing of the overhaul. If you leave it too late not only will the bushings require replacing but the axels will too. This is the reason I switched to using to V11, the cost of new axles and the service kit was more that the new V11s.
When I purchase a new set of pedals, I replace the brass bushes with an Igus bushes. The Igus ones never wear away the axels.
Tools I use as above.
The bushing tool makes the job really easy and also makes sure the new bushing is in the right spot and not mangled trying to bodge it in. If you have a couple of pairs of the pedals it’s worth it. Only thing with the socket is not being too thick walled to fit in the pedal body.
Also remember the different sides unscrew different ways. Don’t try to fit the left nut on the right pedal.
I had some vaults for years. The bushes always failed well before the bearings. I can't remember the bush diameter but I bought a few elsewhere and did them semi frequently. The bush tool worked well.
The seals never stayed put and eventually the axel replacement was the only option, even then they were a bit loose.
I now have hopes.
I’ve just done two sets.
WRT 8mm socket, some are too thick to fit and undo the axle retaining bolt. However this is easy to check, just undo the axle cap and check that your socket fits over the bolt and undoes it.
I’d suggest that unless you’ve got a very well stocked workshop the bushing tool is also vital.
Other than that it’s pretty straightforward.
Bushing can be removed with a ½" bolt or a blind bearing puller.
I bought a bag of Igus bushings (W300 maybe) and some shaft seals and they go a lot longer between services now.
I bought a cheap set of box spanners to undo the end nut. I didn’t need the bushing tool
But I’d say there are a terrible product for durability
But I’d say there are a terrible product for durability
So this forum would have you believe. On the other hand, I’ve only just replaced the bushings on mine after 10 years. Mine have been on long travel bikes and my E bike and have been faultless.
Fairly certain it was these
older ones lasted longer - or quality is a bit hit and miss. Recent pair I had lasted a few months before the bushings went. Replacement is simple enough with the correct DMR tool
