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mail sent
Thanks Simon
fingers crossed I don't have to wait to long.
Hello mail sent,many thanks.
I’m Interested in the 1800, but would there be significant weight saving/improved runtime for a in a single 900? Could the housing be pared down for that too?
I’m thinking more for Helmet light run off 1 or 2 18650s
My current 1*18650 P7 torch on the noggin is OK but the same or more output with less weight would always be ideal…
Any idea on costs for the single kit yet?
I don't know if one of these would run off 1x18650. If it could I'd be interested in finding out how long for etc. Now that would be a Joystick Maxx destroyer!
Well that was my thinking…
I bought an R2 Drop in ages ago with a view to building a simple, small lightweight helmet lamp with a flying lead to a 1 or 2 cell Battery pack/switch for use only as a Single Track/Dark Descents Helmet Lamp, but never finished the exercise…
A Single XML could well fit the bill if the < 8.4 V - LFlex Driver would let me use 7.4 V –ish (2 x 18650)…
Out of my depth a bit there but would really not knowing anything about the driver…
Small and light with a 1-1.5 Hr Burn time (from 2 x 18650) on full is all I would really need to be honest…
The Lflex will run a single XML from a single 18650 that is what it was designed for
or multiple 18650`s in parallel .keeping it at 3.7 volts it wont do single xml and 7.4 volt pack
for full whack it will be taking 3 amps from the battery so a single on full wont do an hour but it also dims
ideal setup would be single xml / LFlex and 2 cell 3.7 volt pack
or 2 xmls in series and a 7.4 volt pack .
as the only difference from single to double is one led and optic
the single is £72 plus pp
comes with bar mount you would need to make a helmet mount for it
I just built one and it weighs 50 grams but its a tight fit in the case for the switch and lflex plus cable entry but doable
@troutie - too much heat for even a big Hammond box to dissipate? If not, would be interested in an 'internals' kit 🙂
Hmmm, so 2 x 18650 in parallel should work a treat, I was hoping to assemble the battery pack and Switch together - remote from the lamp (Flying lead to Bag or Wrist strap mounted jobbie perhaps) which probably makes a little extra space in the housing but might become a wiring faff…
Does the switch have to be wired direct to the Driver or can I bridge that? will the driver detect switching via the power battery connections? Like a Torches tail cap clicky?
Well, I've already built two dual XPG's in hammond boxes, one bar mount, one helmet mount. So I don't really need another lamp.......but I do want one of these 😀
Put me down for one H6flex dual lamp please.......I'm so weak....
Dr Rad
might get away with a standard box and a small finned sink on top
or just keep moving fast .
Cookeaa no you need to connect to the proper terminals on the Lflex
though you can still do the remote switch as long as you dont go very long with the cable .
Flicker drop me a mail if you already haven't
Hi Chris
Got my kit yesterday and started building it, a couple of questions, with the Laura Optics do I glue them to the stars or to the flange at the front of the casing? And is there an idiots guide to programming the driver, I had a look at the Taskled website and was slightly confused. I am only looking for a high, low, off setting.
Mounting the light to my helmet using a Halfords helmet bracket for £4.99, will post some pics up once its finished.
You glue them to the flange at the corners and then the lexan to make it all nice and waterproof
a gaggle of pic to help here http://s199.photobucket.com/albums/aa46/amticoman/DIY%20STEP%20BY%20STEP/
I was going to add some text to them but need a roundtuit
afraid you will need to read and inwardly digest the Effing manual
Can I inadvertantly set the output current to 6000mA and fry my LEDs?
Printed the manual off, might understand it on the 5th pass.
Yes thats possible
one thing that is important is to set the thermal protection to 50 or 60 degrees
Would I be able to get the single kit without the housing/mount? If so, how much?
I'm assuming I could run the LFlex with a 7.4V pack.
Thanks
Amit
Trout- did you recieve my money for the Bflex driver?
Amit
Afraid you cant use single led and Lflex on a 7.4 volt pack
one xml Lflex = 3.7 volt battery
2 xml / Lflex = 7.4 volt battery
Ambrose Checked my paypal acc and no monies from yourself in there
Hey Troutie, any news on the lupine [s]night[/s]troutmare conversion?
😆
Hi Netdonkey
I have only just got to it in the order of things its not looking good
as a host very limited space inside with awkward lips so a heatsink
wont just slip in there .
I need a bit of staring at it but am going to the lakes for a week so wont be able to do owt till I return.
I gather you are in the area this weekend I can leave you a Double XML light and battery built up
as in the kits to have a go with and see what you think .
as the cost of one of those kits ready built would be about the same as buggering about with the Lupine head .and handle the heat better too
Trout,
If you think the double XML is a better way forward then I am happy to take you advice. How about I take a double XML kit off you and I can stick the old lupine on the commuter / lend to a friend list. Let me know how much you want based on the money I paid u last time. Are they in stock? I could pick one up this weekend?
Many thanks this is proper public service stuff
man you do some cool lights (currently have a hope vision epic 2 led lightset/have wanted some of your powerful lights for a while)unfortunately am paying for some rush tickets,then i have to buy a new guitar/amp as i sold my last ones to pay some bills.i can assure you though that when i have the funds,i will be contacting you to buying some of your lights.sorry to drone on,but you definitely do some great lights. 🙂
Botheration- I'll try again.
Is it the blueyonder email address you want me to PPal the money to?
Hi Yah,
Would a Llabartlett please check his inbox settings or send me his details again from another email address.
I have tried replying but my replies keep getting bounced back to me.
Thanks
Smudge
Finished building my Troutie 1800 Lumen light last night, and wanted to share some of my experiences.
I found it really hard to solder to the Taskled Driver, the solder pads are tiny and you need a small tip on the soldering iron and a steady hand.
Don't use too much sealant when you glue/seal the Optics/Lexan, I used far too much and it ended up between the Optic and the Lexan, fortuneately I was quick enough to disassemble and wipe the excess glue off.
Its easy to program the Driver, don't be put off by the manual, read it several times and then read it again, as long as you can count to 13 it shouldn't be a problem.
Using it for the first time tonight, it was really impressive when compared to a P7 in the back garden.
I was surprised by how hot the case got, I have set the thermal cutout to 50 degrees C, so hopefully it will be fine.
Many thanks to Troutie for an excellent piece of kit.
Doug
Cheers Doug.
I was wondering when some of the builds would surface.
Yes the lflex is a bit on the small size. but a nice little driver .
once you are out on the trails heat should not be a problem and of course the driver
will look after the leds and itsself
Hi Chris,
Thanks again for leaving the bits out for me. I had a quick look around the box but could not spot the lupine. Any chance you could post it back to me at some point? Let me know the cost and I will paypal you it.
I have a 7.4 and 7.2 battery in the garage. I was planning on using the 7.4 but wondered what would happen if I use 7.2 (The 7.2 is nominal so wondering if the company are being cautious with a 7.4 setup?) am i likely to fry anything or will it just not work?
My final question before I finish the wet and drying and send it off for anodising is about setting the power. I am tring to work out what to set low med and high to based on your beam shots. Should i be going for 500ma 1500ma and 3000ma?
Hoping to take some build photos and post back soon
NetDonkey - I have my configured in Duo Mode with L5 at 3000mA, once you have your head around how to configure the driver, its really easy to change the setup.
Not sure how you determine what your intermediate power levels are, you configure the driver to give the Max current L5 and the other levels are scaled from this, there is a table for the H6Flex (I am assuming you are using the LFlex) which gives current output for each power level, but this is for the older driver which doesn't support 3000mA.
First ride last night, and the light was amazing (for 10 minutes), it was totally swamping the 4x XPGs that I was using on my bars, the Laura Optics give a nice wide beam without the sharp cutoff at the edges that the Reginas give.
Unfortuneately after 10 minutes the light would only turn on for 60 seconds before flashing 8/9 times and turning off. Once home I got out the manual to find that the default Voltage Cut-off was set at 12V and I was using a 12V battery, I tweaked it down to 11V and it seemed to be OK until the Thermal Cut-out kicked in, when the light dimmed, this was indoors with no airflow and the casing got quite hot to the touch, once cooled full power was again available.
I have charged the battery (12V Lion CCTV battery from Ebay) and will try a full run tonight.
thesurfbus - is this the type of battery you are using?
If so could you let me know the dimensions and weight? It looks like the chepest way of powering the light. Although it looks like you might be having problems...
I've been using one of those to power a p7 for a while (and a brief test on a twin XM-L was fine).
110x60x15mm
~210g
FunkyDunc - Yes thats the battery, I have been using it with 4x XPGs with no problems, they seem to have got cheaper as well, think I will buy another.
The only downside to the battery is the shape, as it doesn't lend itself to fitting on a frame, I had been mounting mine to the headtube with a big Velcro strap. I did start to take it apart to see if it could be rebuilt in a different shape, but gave up and put it back together.
There is another CCTV battery that is twice the size, which I might fit into a water bottle for the bigger rides.
I am hoping all my problems will be sorted now.
There is also a [url= http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120695005360&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT ]6800mAh[/url] version which is 85x62x20mm, this would extend the battery life of two XMLs on full to just over 3 hours, there is also a tiny 1800mAh version which would be handy to keep in the back pocket as a backup.
I ran a soak test last night on the light, I set the Voltage Cutoff to 10V and the Thermal cutout to 60 degrees C, I was using a 12V 4800mAh battery.
The ambient temperature was 3 degrees C, but after 10 minutes the Thermal Cutout kicked in, I had an old computer fan which I rigged up and there were no further Thermal Cutouts.
The light ran for just under 90 minutes on high (3A) power, where the Voltage Cutout switched the light off, I checked the battery with the multimeter and it was 10.3V.
So the light performed perfectly, the only thing I need to tweak is the Voltage Cutoff, I was thinking of setting it to 9V (75%), any thoughts if this would damage the battery?
I wouldn't worry about heat. My twin xm-l setup has (I would guess) half the surface area and is only vaguely warm to touch when riding (30C at most).
My P7 setup is similar outside but when it's occasionally used in the attic it will get to over 60C in a matter of minutes. Amazing what a bit of airflow will do.
Hello to trout,iv sent you a couple of emails,just wondering if you got them as my mail is playing up,iv been communicating with smudge by text?it was to order two twins and one single.please.
Hi, Could I also request a price for a Lflex driver, XML led and regina reflector. Many thanks great post
i am away on hols till the weekend with very iffy tinternet so will catch up with the mails when I get back
Lowered the cutoff voltage to 9V and ran the light until it cut out, again got just under 90 minutes on Full Power,.
I guess its no surprise but those cheap 12V CCTV Batteries are not as good as they say on the tin. But at £15 a pop they are still good value for money.
Not looking forward to the clocks changing next week, as it will be less time to use my lovely new light.
Right project finished. I decided on a trimode set-up using the 2nd, 4th and 5th brightness settings. I found, filing the LEDs a bit fiddly. you have to get pretty close to the pads. Other than that all went well.
I was going to have the case anodised but had heat and conductivity concerns and a burning desire to finish it.
Here are the beam shots using a 7.4v 6800mAh battery at a 3000mA drive current. burn times to follow
[b]L2[/b]
[img] 
[/img]
[b]L4[/b]
[img] 
[/img]
[b]L5[/b]
[img] 
[/img]
Hello smudge,batteries received,many thanks for fast services.
Thanks reg.
Happy light building 🙂
Smudge
Hello trout,got new mail address so sent it over.Many thanks Reg
Trout YHM ta
Trout, got your email regarding demoing a 2 x XML & replied, would like to pick it up asap, could you reply please
Interested in a pair of XMLs optics and driver, but wanted to use my existing Hope2 housing and battery - have you got a price please?
Thanks
Tom
PS did e-mail but seen you've had problems... 
Thanks trout,to those who cant get through be patience,worth the wait extremely nice bloke,many thanks Reg..
Trout, or others...
I'm part way through my build and at the stage of gluing the optics on to the stars. The stars are fully screwed down on to the heat sink, but when I put the optics on top they protrude above the internal flanges of the casing.
I thought the clear plastic lens cover is glued flush on to the internal flange with the optics below, however with the optics as they are the cover will just sit on top of the optics in a sense 'floating'.
Is that correct or should the optics be far enough inside the case that the lens cover fits firmly on to the flange (as it looks like on page 2 of this thread)
Hope this makes sense…
Hi Dunc
no the lexan cover sits on the lenses and is then glued in
you want a small blob of glue on the flanges for the corners of the optics
the corners of the optics sit on or just above the ledge`s
I'm part way through my build now, unfortuntaely a broken wrist has stopped me.
I decided to spray paint the casing with this http://www.plasti-kote.co.uk/Product/pcode---4427/pccode---6751 which is rated to 120 degress so should hopefully be ok and only cost £3 a can.
I was expecting the build to be harder than it was and the case etc to be quite basic. However what you are actually getting is a well engineerd kit to put together at home!
This is what that part finished light looks like.
[img] 
[/img]
and fron the rear with power cable still to be fitted...
[img] 
[/img]
with cheap ebay battery which will be frame mounted in an old SMART lights battery pack.
[img] 
[/img]
FunkyDunc - I couldn't get my Ebay battery like yours to work properly, the light turns off after about 1 minutes use, there is nothing wrong with the battery as its fine on a 4x XPG set up, but I think that it just can't supply the current that the XMLs require.
I currently use 4x 18650 batteries with no problems.
OK finally got my lights fully built and hit a BIG problem.
The cheap Ebay battery has a charger, but even after 8 hours charging the green charged light didnt come on. SO I ran the light not knowing if fully charged or not. It ran for 95 minutes on full and then switched off, no flashing for low volatge.
Ive tried recharging but as thesurfbus above says, it is now only lighting for approx 1 minute before shutting off.
So basically probably not a good buy!
Whats the next cheapest way of getting a reliable battery pack working? Is it 18650 cells I wouldnt have thought 4 x would give much run time on full??
Which cells and charger would people recommend?
Thanks
for battery packs try someone like
rcmdirect
for one of the RC retailers in the uk usually one of them will have a special on the Li poly pack you want
for a cheap balance charger try one of the esky units are good
I've been using li poly's for seveveral years without any problems but have a look at the safety faq's on some of the RC sites (as long as you treat them with respect they're fine)
I've got the 900 version and I'm using 2 18650's in series?? to give me 3.7v and 5200mah (helmet mounted) yeah it probably won't give me much burn time at full whack but not planning on using it on full all the time anyway!
I think this is smudge from this forum who has a good reputation for supplying batteries
http://www.mtbbatteries.co.uk/index.html
+1 for Smudge. He helped me with an old TrailTech HID
My current Troute light is Smudge batteried and runs for ever!
Yup Smudge is the man!!
Dunc I have a few battery packs in stock with chargers if you are stuck
They are of course Smudge packs
Trout - YHM
Thanks troutie, I can also vouch he only sells my batteries & chargers.
Troutie YGM.
Ok its between a smudge pack or a DIY 4 x 18650 or 6 x 18650 unit.
What kind of run time on full are people getting with a home made 4 x 18650 cell pack?
Ta
Ok dumb driver setting questions (sorry)
I have made my battery pack 6 x 3.7v Li-ions. In a 11.1v 4800mah configuration.
What should I set the current drive level at, and the voltage cut off level? Is there some formula for working it out?
I assume that if I reduce the current drive level I get longer burn time but less brightness, and too high a current drive level I fry the LED's and reduce battery life?
Ta
Hi Dunc
Voltage cutoff 3 volt per cell or parellel pair so 9 volts
drive current for the h6flex not over 3 amps
but either 2 amps or 2.8 amps will do nicely
better runtime on the 2 amp setting though .
Thanks for the quick response!
Is black cat still doing the drivers and are there ones which don't get knacked by the current.
Hi Trout,
Is it possible for you to modify some Hope Vision 2 lights? The housing looks a bit tight for fitting new Leds and optics but do your think it would be possible?
Cheers
Never had a vision 2 in bits or in my hand so cant comment on its upgrade ability .
but am prepared to give it a coat of looking at .
Off to the geeky light forums to search as sure I have seen one on there that has been done
Quirrel Black cat is still on ebay but he never did the drivers for these diy lights they were taskled Lflex or H6flex www.taskled.com
Can you modify a old trail tech hid housing to a LEDs? I've got one of smudges 14.4v lion batteries to use with it.
[url= http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?215454-Hope-Visions-2-LED-MC-E-upgrade-how-to-Dialup-warning-Picture-heavy ]Hope 2 tinkerer[/url]
Cheers for the links guys. I could send you mine Trout if you don't mind having a look at it, I'll happily cover cost/time.
I got 2hr 40 mins on FULL last night before I had to switch the light off and go to bed!
I'm surprised how much run time I got. Recharging the batteries tonight and will have a re run (switching on earlier) to see how long a full charge lasts.
The only down size is the charge time which is about 4 1/2 hrs per 2 batteries.... think I might have to order another charger from DX.
Might then turn the current drive up to 2800 and see if that makes much difference to the already stupid brightness!
Anyone know of a source of xpg's. my cutter quad has come away from the board yet again, second fail. I'll take an Xre next time as I'm fed up fixing them.
Anyone in the uk got one?
Trout when i get the pennies together I'll have one of those mk3's!
I posted this on a seperate thread, as wasn't sure if this one was still alive.
My DIY XML light which uses a TaskLed H6Flex driver with 2 XML LEDs in series stopped working at the weekend.
I went to turn it on and it flashed once, and now doesn't switch on, I have checked there is power getting to the board, but apart from that I am not sure how I can test it.
Just checked the TaskLed website and they won't have any H6Flex drivers until mid November, are there any other drivers I could use, its a 14.8V smudge battery pack.
Thanks Doug
Sent you an email Trout mate. Interested in any type of DIY kit your doing 🙂