[Closed] Disc calipers cable pull for my commuter recommendations please

Probably not the answer you want to hear due to cost, but, go hydro, and stop effectively consistently.

Avid BB7 are about as good as cable discs get. They can be a bit of a pain to set up but they do work.

If I had to stay with mechanical levers - TRP HY/RD. They are at the very least self adjusting.

My 105 level CX cable brakes work as.well.as my BB7s. They were £20 each.

Have you tried aftermarket pads?

My Tektro brakes on the Merlin had no real bite and had a high pitch squeel, even with little pressure.

I've just popped a set of Uberbike Kevlar in the front and it's so much better - a good bite at the start, silent and more powerful all round.

I've four sets of the Tektro brakes. Two take a rounded pad, and I can't find a high performance alternative. Two take standard Shimano deore parts, so lots of options.

Juin tech cable hydros, got them on the wife’s commuter and my spare cx bikes since 02/18, cleaned them properly once for a bit of piston stick but never bled them or had any issues. Work well

I use Spyre and Spyke.
Miles better than BB7.
They don't shriek and give even pad wear with a longer life.
They have one tiny fault but I have found a work round for that.
Need to check your rotor sizes as 160mm dia rotor on RS Reba forks which previously worked with
BB7 needed a 180mm rotor to stop the caliper pinging the spokes.

Thanks for the info. Interested in shimano ones I've seen. Does anyone know how easy these are to remove and replace pads? The current ones I have (not sure what brand but not a main one) are a nightmare to fit new pads in, literally had to use a hammer to smash them in!
I've never really had much trouble with hope or avid juicy I've had before on other bikes....
Cheers

I use Spyre and Spyke.
Miles better than BB7.

I’ve got Spyres on two bikes and BB7s on two others. I find them both absolutely fine and dandy. If you put a gun to my head and forced me to choose one, I’d choose the BB7s on the grounds that the piston adjustment on the Spyres involves poking a small Allen key and a few fingers through the spokes right near where they cross, whereas the BB7s have a simple knob that can be turned by hand.

BB7 needed a 180mm rotor to stop the caliper pinging the spokes.

Also the opposite of my experience 🙂 The Spyre calliper extends significantly further inboard, to the extent that I can only just set it up to clear the spokes with fag-paper clearance (160mm rotors and XT/SP dynamo hubs), whereas the BB7s have plenty of space to play with.

The Shimano, BRM375? are reliable with decent sized readily available, easy to fit pads. They have two stage adjustment - right pad with an Allen key and left by cable. Be aware that some cable/hydraulic hybrids can be sensitive to adjustments - some may say dangerous! Just my opinion/experience!

Be aware that some cable/hydraulic hybrids can be sensitive to adjustments – some may say dangerous! Just my opinion/experience!

Also my experience. I cannot set up my Hy/Rds to adjust the pads automatically. The cable throw doesn’t seem sufficient to allow the cam to return fully to its neutral (self-adjusting) position. To avoid squidgy brakes, I have to set them up without auto pad adjust. This is mostly fine but in theory if the pads wear too much I could reach the limit of the cam throw and end up with no brakes.

Fortunately the pads seem to wear incredibly slowly on my commuter so it’s not a real issue and a fettle with the cable action every 6 months or so gets around this issue. I’m looking to upgrade to GRX hydro nevertheless.

Juin tech have been a huge upgrade over TRP spyres for me, cheap too

RE the Shimano calipers - I've ridden StirlingCrispin's bike once with the Shimano calipers. Definitely felt a firmer and more connected response than my Tektro, but not necessarily more powerful.

I'd avoid TRP HY/RD from my experiences with them.

I've had TRP HY/RDs for years - been fine for me, although the stock pads did wear out in no time. Got me loaded down Ventoux safely for example. That said when I got them Spyres didn't exist - I didn't like the single moving pad action of the BB7s that I had - I'd probably consider Spyres now to though.

Once you learn how to set up bb7s they are dead easy and will send you over the handlebars.

Adjusting the inboard of take 30seconds with your fingers. The faff is so overstated generally by people who haven't learnt the method.

Definitely less faff then faffing around with syringes and flicking levers to get bubbles out*.

*Suggesting an entirely new braking system with its own maintenance requirements is madness.

BB7 roads here. I think they're mint. Discobrakes kevlar pads and compressionless housing, set the pad clearances properly and they work a treat.

I am considering giving some Juin Tech 'style' hybrid calipers (Zitto from aliexpress probably) a go, but purely because they're about 60 grams lighter than BB7s for a pair.

I recently bought a pair of shimano r517 (105 level I think) callipers from wiggle. £18 an end. With decent compressionless cable they work pretty good. In the mud and rain on Sunday they had enough stopping power and nice modulation.
Need to set them up so that the pads are close to the disk. Time will tell how they fair as the pads wear...

Edit/ compared to the other shimano- 385 is it? They allow both pads to be adjusted by Allen key. Two different sized Allen keys mind you- but once the cable is tight you shouldn’t have to adjust it.

Cable operated hydralics from Clarks? link

Or the chinese X-tech ones which I use and work welllink and are mega cheap

Using Spyre here with compressionless cable and deore pads, seems fine. No complaints with bb7 mtb brakes on our tandem either.

I have the TRP Hy/RYD and they are great.

They are on my Whyte Glencoe and stop me no worries.

Not adjusted any aspect of them in 2.5 years.

BB7 needed a 180mm rotor to stop the caliper pinging the spokes.

Oops should have read Spyke not BB7.

Spyres involves poking a small Allen key and a few fingers through the spokes right near where they cross

Agree absolute pain. Allen Key too short/long depending on which way round you try.
Then I discovered the 3mm hex socket from my torque wrench set is just made for the job.
That's without the torque wrench obvs. Short enough to miss the spokes and large enough to get a purchase on.
Would still rate Spyke/Spyre over BB7 though.