[Closed] Disc brake pad spacer thingy

https://www.weirdosonbikes.com/product/disc-brake-spacers/

MTB Disc Brake Pads Adjusting Tool Bicycle Pads Mounting Kit Tools Pads Rotor Brake Bike Repair Spacer Assistant Alignment, Set of 5 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B093K2JP6N/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_Z30EER571T7XP3YA5F89?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Found these too.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00306MRC0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1

What does this offer over holding the lever and tightening the calliper bolts?

I hate to try to draw attention and be a show off, but i made little wooden wedge things for doing C2 calipers in the mid 90's. I have wondered for years why no big company made a spacer though recently(well multiple years back) I did see that avid came out with something not dissimilar.

I'd made identical wedges, but thinking on it now something like the wooden parts of a spring clothes peg would do the job. If each is level to the other, then the space is equal.

Prise the pads apart and loosen the caliper mounting bolts. Slip one blade from a feeler gauge on each side of the rotor. Clamp the brakes on and tighten the bolts.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Imperial-Distance-Stainless-0-0015-0-035-0-04-0-88mm/dp/B0952XNT93

Seriously, if you think a brake rotor is capable of taking the torque reaction generated when tightening the calper bolts without twisting, you'll end up both wasting time and money, and still have a misaligned caliper. Take the time and walk the caliper into place one end at a time, and if your rotor and mounts are straight (sort them too if they aren't) you'll have a properly aligned caliper that doesn't flex the rotor when you pull the lever (if it does, then it's still not correctly aligned).

if you think a brake rotor is capable of taking the torque reaction generated when tightening the calper bolts without twisting, you’ll end up both wasting time and money,

It doesn't. You gently tighten each end of the caliper in turn just enough to get it seated, then you torque them up. No torque is applied to the rotor.

I dont know if this is the right way or the wrong way but i initially set up so it looks centered.

Then with the bolts just done up but not nipped tight, I use the bottom of a small pin hammer to gently tap one side or the other to bring it till the point the rotor doesnt deflect when i pull lightly on the lever.

I sight straight down, pull the lever that little bit till the pads engage, if the rotor is starting to deflect one way, i use the base of the hammer to tap it lightly then try on the lever again. Its a case of a bit back and forth to get the caliper to a point when i pull the lever the pads press onto the rotor and the rotor doesnt move.

By using a small pin hammer, it has a bit of weight behind it so you can have the bolts reasonably done up, but not so that they are too loose, and when you do come to tighten them the caliper doesnt move by twisting as the forces on the bolt to caliper make it do.

Because im using the bottom of the handle, the handle is quite long so it can be poked through the wheel to tap the inboard side of the caliper

That's why I want to try one of these out, to take out the faff. Got to be much quicker....

For Magura brakes Magura recommend

at about 2:17 in

First before installing the wheel ensure the pistons move as evenly as possible. If there's a lazy one just excercise it in and out a few times while holding the others in.

Push the pistons back in and centre the caliper with the rotor.

Squeeze lever and hopefully the pistons come out evenly. If not, use a small screwdriver to hold the over extended pad back and squeeze the lever to extend the other piston.

I always find adjusting the pistons to centre a much better way of getting a solid brake than moving the caliper off of centre.
I've never found those metal spacers to work at all.

Well I'll give them a go to see if it's easier with them.
I'll check the pistons beforehand.