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Just got a new (to me) DD turbo and the chain line is out a fair bit.
Same cassette/spacer from wheel it replaces.
Is it just a case of luck of the draw, re-index and crack on? Would assume all hubs/Turbos would be same dimensions.
Part of the reason for getting the turbo was reducing faff but that would now seem to be the opposite to the plan.
Don't have a spare turbo bike so the nice summer bike is all i'll have. Admittedly, it'll now stay attached to the turbo until spring.
Follow up question, how many times can you use a quick link? Chain line is out a looong way so reckon it's a chain off job to align mech limit screws.
Not unusual based on my experience - my Wahoo Kickr seems to be built to a different standard than my Shimano Hub, both with the same Shimano casette fitted.
If the cassette is too far inboard on the turbo you could run a spacer/shim behind it on the turbo, it its further inboard on the bike then vice/versa.
Mine does usually need a 20 second half turn in/out of the barrel adjuster at the mech to get it absolutely spot on perfect though.
Don't need to take the chain off to do alignment, if you are going through the faff of changing cassette from wheel to turbo then a couple of minutes to adjust the mech is fairly small addition.
You could get some adapters made to suit the turbo axle to make it the same as your wheel if it bothers you.
So not unusual, that's cool if not a tad annoying.
Is a different cassette to wheel, just same model/size.
Out by a full gear width so more than barrel adjuster territory.
You could get some adapters made to suit the turbo axle to make it the same as your wheel if it bothers you.
That's a good shout. May try it without the spacer as it's so far out to start.
Cheers guys.
Have you mounted the bike onto the turbo axle correctly? Mine came with a spacer and it would be easy to get it wrong. One whole gear is quite a leap.
As regards chainlinks, some folk (not me) regularly remove their chain for cleaning and get away with the same link for the life of the chain (and more).
Also - if you can get 1 gear it’s happy in - just use erg mode on the turbo. You don’t need to change gear then at all. On the kickr core particularly for intervals it’s suggested to use the small chainring at the front then just pick a gear with the straightest chainline at the back and leave it there.
I’ve got a Kickr core with my Caad12 road bike - I actually run one cassette which lives on the turbo and one that stays on the back wheel. I run 2 chains which stay with its respective cassette and use reusable KMC quick links to join them when I swap from road to turbo.
Seems to work ok.
If its out by a whole gear then I agree, that suggests something is amiss - are the axle endcap/spacer bits all fitted correctly and on the right side?
@scotroutes , hmmm, there's a thought. I'll check the box, came with a multitude of bits.
EDIT: Cheers @snotrag, will have a play tonight.
@joebristol I'll also give that a whirl, new to this turbo lark. Did see the erg option but ignored it.
It's a hassle. Spacing is standardised, but it's obviously not in reality.
A whole gear is quite a discrepancy though. A bit of clickety clack and a little turn of the limit screw is more normal.
@scotroutes is a good suggestion: is there an axle spacer which can move the bike laterally?
What's the trainer? How many speed cassette?
@savoyad I'm pretty sure there was an axle spacer (well, it's what i assumed it was).
It's an Elite Drivo II, believe 11 speed but I'm running 10 speed cassette with a 2mm spacer.
Was a bit blase setting it up so will have a good butchers an manual tonight.
My Direto was quite a way out.
I bought new chainrings, chain and cassette for my bike when I got the turbo trainer.
It's a bike specifically for user on the turbo, but I figured it would be easier to set up with a back wheel on the workstand.
Got it running nicely, put it on the turbo and it was quite a way out.
I'm now wondering if I need to take it all apart and check I've done it right, if people are saying it should be pretty close.
Mine is 9 speed running a spacer behind the cassette, I think.
Also....kind of related. What a massive ball ache to set up the gears on a direct drive trainer!! It's such an effort to rotate the drivetrain. Could do with a clutch to disengage the belt for set-up
I have an Elite Zumo and using a QR skewer. it's definitely worth checking the instructions as I almost got it wrong.
I just had an Elite Direto X delivered, I'm running 10 speed cassette, it needed two spacers behind the cassette and for a washer on the non drive side to be outside of the frame instead of inside.
Oh well, guess I'm in the reported minority, I have an Elite Direto, running 11 spd Di2 and a 142x12mm bolt through, followed the set up instructions (put the right end caps in) and I can merrily swap between road wheels and turbo set up without any need for adjustment whatsoever.
Doesn't di2 autotrim?
OP, at least using a 10speed cassette on there you have the option to move the spacer around.
Did you use a 10 speed cassette spacer? One could off is a lot, but 10 needs a small spacer than 9 and 11 do not.
Holy slack response batman!
Only just got around to having a butchers.
Oh the shame of finding i'd used ALLLL the spacers behind the cassette (suspect 9 & 10 spacer).
Now just a wee turn on the barrel adjuster has it smooth as butter.
Now i've no excuse not to use it, damn.