Cwieting a Clunking...
 

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Cwieting a Clunking Cane Creek Coil

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Sorry, for the title but I couldn't not really, its that sort of morning where by I have to latch onto the little things...

So broadly as title, I've a cane creek kitsuma coil on my new bike, all works lovely but it makes an awful clank under full/rapid compression.

Coil off and compress the frame hard, it's fine though obviously unridable like that. Chill back on and the noise is back.

There are "scuff" marks on the plastic sleeve (after one decent ride out) which I assume is there precisely because of movement in the spring causing it to hit the body. I've wrapped a bit of self amalgamating tape round the shock body and it seems to have gone a fair way to solving the problem but I can't see it lasting over long.

Is this just one of those things that has to be lived with, is it a problem and needs to be fixed or is there a solution that's a bit better/easier than SA tape? (a sleeve of road inner tube was a thought).

Ta


 
Posted : 23/02/2023 10:33 am
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Shocks shouldn't make loud metallic clunking noises, it needs fixing. I wouldn't put too much value in your test with the spring off, you're unlikely to be cycling the shock as harshly as when riding (unless you are 100% certain its the spring and not something inside the damper). As its a new bike that's one I'd be going back to the shop with.


 
Posted : 23/02/2023 10:51 am
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Is it a Cane Creek spring you have fitted?


 
Posted : 23/02/2023 10:58 am
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unless you are 100% certain its the spring and not something inside the damper

I'm comfortable it's the coil hitting the shock body, don't get me wrong I'm not doing a twenty foot huck to flat with no coil on there because it will break something but it got quite vigorously jumped on.
(for what it's worth I suppose it's the inevitable side effect of lighter and lighter that the spring will deflect laterally a bit more than you'd like rather than purely longitudinal compression and I guess that's exactly why the plastic sleeve is there)

Is it a Cane Creek spring you have fitted?

Yep, I did briefly wonder if it should have a spacer or something on it as RS ones would but there wasn't anything in the box with the shock or with the coil (though that wasn't retail packaged so potentially missing something)


 
Posted : 23/02/2023 11:08 am
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What stroke is the shock, and what length is the spring?


 
Posted : 23/02/2023 11:24 am
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My pre-Kitsuma does the same... a bit annoying but I agree it's probably the lighter weight springs deflecting more?


 
Posted : 23/02/2023 11:27 am
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210*55 and a 2.25". It's definitely the right size etc (I know this because, as is inevitable, I had some which are too big and some which are too small in the garage already but of course, nothing that actually fits).

As is I've got a different weight one on the way (since the same weight 65mm spring I already have won't fit 🙄) which might solve it if it deflects a bit differently or is at the other end of ID tolerances etc.


 
Posted : 23/02/2023 11:32 am
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My pre-Kitsuma does the same… a bit annoying but I agree it’s probably the lighter weight springs deflecting more?

Don't suppose you came up with a magic wand for it?


 
Posted : 23/02/2023 11:47 am
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You could try a small amount of grease between the spring and the spring perch.
As the spring compresses' it also turns. This can cause a noise as it grinds the ends of the coil on the perch.

I've had it really bad on an EXT shock. Bit of grease worked for a while but ultimately it was solved by a very thin nylon spacer either end of the spring.
All four shocks I've fitted them to have been much quieter and don't need greasing any more.


 
Posted : 23/02/2023 5:00 pm
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Could a 38mm ID spring with plastic reducers like the nukeproof one be a valid option.
Btw, I couldn't not really 😖
Minimum preload could play a part, how many turns are on it.


 
Posted : 23/02/2023 5:58 pm
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Putting a waffer theen PTFE spacer/washer at the end of the spring is worth doing anyway as it can help slightly with preventing spring wind up (and thus improves sensitivity)


 
Posted : 23/02/2023 8:53 pm
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Minimum preload could play a part, how many turns are on it.

I've tried it with about two and about as many as I can manage and it's much the same to be honest.

but ultimately it was solved by a very thin nylon spacer either end of the spring.
All four shocks I’ve fitted them to have been much quieter and don’t need greasing any more.

Don't suppose you've an example have you?


 
Posted : 23/02/2023 9:58 pm
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I’ve had a number of CCDB coil shocks and they’ve all done this - as far as I can recall that’s why Cane Creek fit that black plastic sleeve to the damper body, and likewise the reason that plastic sleeve gets so scuffed up. Has yours got the sleeve still? I know a lot of people used to remove them for the bling look.


 
Posted : 24/02/2023 12:15 am
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Has yours got the sleeve still? I know a lot of people used to remove them for the bling look.

Yep, and I've de-binged it further by wrapping it with self amalgamating tape 🙂

I'll have a look for some of the aforementioned washers but

I’ve had a number of CCDB coil shocks and they’ve all done this

Makes me feel better!


 
Posted : 24/02/2023 12:20 am
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One thing I also noticed is if I had to wind the slow speed compression on a lot (14 clicks was my setting) it also made a subtle knocking noise. Take a few clicks off & the knocking disappeared. I spoke to TFtuned & they also reassured me it was normal for these shocks - depending on the frame I imagine it could be quite loud; the loudest was an Orange Alpine 160 whereas my Cotic Jeht seems to dampen the noise (alloy & boxy vs Steel tubes??).


 
Posted : 24/02/2023 8:30 am
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I had a slight clunk on my TTX coil because I had wound on the spring too much, backed it off 1/4 of a turn & all good 👍🏼


 
Posted : 24/02/2023 8:38 am

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