[Closed] Crown race removal shashafasnnnnnn grrrrrrrr!

Proper hammer and a screwdriver.

FBH.

Yeah can't beat a bit if metal on metal in this case!

rubber mallet & nice sharp chisel for me - if you're capable of being careful

oh! old knife blade and rubber mallet here. the wedge needs to be really thin to get under the race. ime

I gave up . . . .

The Cane creek s8 crown race seems to have a rubber ring under and to it's outer extremity, that makes it very difficult to get a gap at all to work on, anyone else had this problem? Where the minimal gap is or should be is bunged by this rubber . . .

I'm considering trying to get the rubber part off, so I can get under it properly, but it does appear to be integrated as an integral part of the race?

Just watched a you-tube video, but their crown race didn't have this rubber bit on!

use a stanley knife blade (not in the knife) - fits under the rubber bit without cutting it.

a screwdriver is to wide.

Take it to your LBS for them to remove with a proper removal tool, will probably work out cheaper than a new crown race.
I use a variety of methods depending on the race design, most of which are list above.

use a bigger hammer and screwdriver. drink beers first for extra points

Old butter knife and hammer always works for me, if not all you need is a big rock.

Old sharp knife and hammer/mallet, wedge blade between headset race and fork crown, once you've moved it away from the fork crown then lever/bash it off with a screwdriver.

I think I just need to whack harder . . . ! 😯

My Lbs did mine FOC as its such a simple job for such a massive, expensive piece of equipment

I did one last week on a pair of carbon road forks, totally welded on it was, with no gaps at all under it

Resorted to taking a Dremel to it it the end

if not all you need is a big rock

Extra points for sharpness of implement and, obviously, the fewer strikes needed - possibly also bonus for bloodshed ?

If you do it often, get one of these - only £20 and they do the job brilliantly - including those rubbery Cane Creek ones...may not help you today though.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=55939&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=Google-Products-UK

If you live in surrey - happy to help

Thanks for the offer, West Mids DY1 if anyone local has something similar!!

old knife blade and rubber mallet here

that's the way to do it.. eases it off without risk of slippage messing up your fork. I find a (cutlery) knife blade and a small hammer used lightly to avoid knocking it into the actual steerer works well, then gently drift it off with the hammer and something blunt.

Ziwi can you confirm if those work with marzocchi 'M' crown forks?

Using that tool ^^ is not much different to what a carefully positioned wood chisel would do, so get a chisel with a nice keen edge & tap carefully.

I know takisawa but it is nicer/easier to use the correct tool, I'm not going to shell out £200 for a headset press when a threaded bar is £2, but £25 for one of those I can manage, should be a lot better for seized races too.

Break open the bubbly! Done it, Stanley blade worked a treat! Thanks for the advice.

take it to your lbs with a drooped head and say you got it like that 😯

Wood chisel+1

Tried lots of other things but the chamfer/bevel manages to creep under quite nicely.

get the tool...